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Old 12-14-2012, 03:30 PM   #1
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Atwood 8500 Hyrdo-Flame board or maybe gas valve solinoid ?

hi i could use some help here,the igniter board supplies 12V to valve only for a spit second, voltage goes away and then trys again and fails again.
My ? is could a a bad solinoid on the valve cause the board to shut down like this ?
Also do rv service shops usually check the boards for free? or is there other ways to get it diagnosed?
Thanks
Gary
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Old 12-14-2012, 10:09 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Getintuit View Post
hi i could use some help here,the igniter board supplies 12V to valve only for a spit second, voltage goes away and then trys again and fails again.
My ? is could a a bad solinoid on the valve cause the board to shut down like this ?
Also do rv service shops usually check the boards for free? or is there other ways to get it diagnosed?
Thanks
Gary
Gary,
I normally see that the board is not sensing the flame when this happens. As far as checking the board, [moderator edit], other shops might charge a minimum for their techs.
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Old 12-15-2012, 02:51 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Getintuit View Post
hi i could use some help here,the igniter board supplies 12V to valve only for a spit second, voltage goes away and then trys again and fails again.
My ? is could a a bad solinoid on the valve cause the board to shut down like this ?
Also do rv service shops usually check the boards for free? or is there other ways to get it diagnosed?
Thanks
Gary
Hi Gary. The "split" second I interpret to be less than a second. My question is how long does the control board supply the ignitor with a high voltage spark to the burner. A bad gas valve can shut down the board. Try removing the circuit from the gas valve and retry operation. The control board should send a spark to the burner and power to the gas valve for about 7 seconds before pausing for about 15 -20 seconds and retrying one or maybe two more times before locking out. Let us know what you find.
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Old 12-15-2012, 03:40 AM   #4
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thanksfor for the tip . I will remove the pos leads to the coils and take another reading , looking for 12v for about 7 seconds also i will measure resistance across each coil looking for 40-60 ohms, How can i check high voltage lead ? do i need a sparkplug tester? im an electrician but some of this rv stuff is completely new to me .i cant wait to get the bugs out of this MH for first road trip. yeeHaa
thanks again ill keep yall posted
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Old 12-15-2012, 03:26 PM   #5
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Hmmmmmmm,today i installed a new ignition board ,this fixed some problems but the dang thing still wont light. gotta be low on gas less than 1/4 tank and its cold here in mass,
could that be? im haveing the tank filled on monday.
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Old 12-16-2012, 03:13 AM   #6
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When was the last time the furnace was serviced (cleaned, inspected and adjusted)? I would start with this service before just throwing parts at it. Find a qualified person to pull the furnace and do this. Watch (if you can) and learn what and how this is done so you can do it every couple of years or more often if it gets contaminated with pests or has a failure. Good luck and let us know what you find.
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Old 12-16-2012, 04:14 AM   #7
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good morning,
getting this apart and back together was no problem , did it3 times allready,its clean inside with no crud on electrode or sence and no rodant or wasp debree, both coils on the valve working or at least clicking when 12v applied individually , orface is clean,i can hear the new board cycle to try and ignite 3 times, high voltage lead has good continuity,today im gonna get a extend a stay kit and try a full grill tank, im also gonna keep my fingers and toes crossed.
any thing else i could try ????????????
thanks
gary
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Old 12-16-2012, 10:20 AM   #8
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Wizard is right, how about the fan speed??, are the squirrel changes clean??, there is a sail switch that has to be closed by adequate air flow, this sends signal to controller and on to valves..... Check gas pressures?? Sometimes a regulator can "back off"........
Just some more possibilities
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Old 12-17-2012, 03:58 AM   #9
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Just because you can hear the gas solenoids "click" does not mean that the valve is allowing fuel through. Bench test the gas valve to determine if the valve is actually working. Be safe and keep us posted.
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Old 12-17-2012, 04:16 AM   #10
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There was one version of that series that had a welded fitting on the gas tube, it would rust internally and flakes of rust would block the orifice.... We replace that with a pressed fitting and no more rust flakes, also did you check the actual burner...if it is burned out.....holes in it....won't light right.
Just more possibilities....
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Old 12-18-2012, 06:50 PM   #11
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Good eveing,thankyou somuch for these tips i will keep trying them until i have heat .
the burner apears to be in good shape, everything down in there was pretty clean. this furnace was new in 2005 and the mh has been sitting for the last 4 years only driven around the block each year a couple of time . i got it for free from craigs list to a good home ,only had to drive 14 miles to put it in my driveway.454 run like a top 37,000 mile on her.need a mastercylinder.ok back to the furnace can cold gas cause this problem ,less than a 1/4 tank also, im still trying to deside between gas co comming to fill up or installing a extend a stay . i want both but can only have one right now $$$$issues.looking at a service drawing some one posted the electrode and the sence probe should be 1/8" apart at the end, i had to tweak this on mine about a 1/2 is how it was also i show some resistance thru the probes is this right or should the be dead short?(0 ohms)
THANKS AGAIN GUYS
Gary
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Old 12-19-2012, 03:47 AM   #12
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Normally gaps is 3/16" and be sure the spark is at the tip and consistent during the "try" period designed into the control board. Did you find out if the valves were opening? If so, you could have a blend of butane which can lead to a problem in cold weather. An extend a stay type setup with a good fuel supply will eliminate a bad gas scenario. Good luck and keep us posted.
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