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03-17-2007, 03:06 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: AZ
Posts: 36
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Topic continued from Owner's Corner forum:
Huston, We have ignition.
To update the crowed on my trails and tribulations with the Atwood furnace:
The electric click I kept hearing was the solinode opening the gas valve. After check the voltage and assuring myself that the control board was good, fine tuning the electrode gap, cleaning the burner nozzle, purging the gas line, finding and repairing a loose butt connector (one I did a couple of months ago while working on the AC unit) the furace worked five times then quit again, and later it would ignite and burn for about three seconds, (did this three times). To me, things pointed to the lack of a good healthy spark and was reinforced this morning when I removed the burner one more time to check the spark. I heard a good strong continues sparking and thought that it sounded stronger than before. I had failed to reconnect the hi tenison wire to the electrode and the wire was arcing to the chassis. Connected to the electrode it was a lot weaker and not as continuous.
Was able to find a new electrode locally and replaced it. Worked first time, every time and only had to buy one replacement part! Only problem now is that it is in the upper eighties in N. Arizona this week and I don't need the furnace.
Thanks for everyones help.
Harold
__________________
__________________
Once a full timer and miss the road.
'01 Nat'l RV, Tropical 33' Ford V10
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03-17-2007, 03:06 PM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: AZ
Posts: 36
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Topic continued from Owner's Corner forum:
Huston, We have ignition.
To update the crowed on my trails and tribulations with the Atwood furnace:
The electric click I kept hearing was the solinode opening the gas valve. After check the voltage and assuring myself that the control board was good, fine tuning the electrode gap, cleaning the burner nozzle, purging the gas line, finding and repairing a loose butt connector (one I did a couple of months ago while working on the AC unit) the furace worked five times then quit again, and later it would ignite and burn for about three seconds, (did this three times). To me, things pointed to the lack of a good healthy spark and was reinforced this morning when I removed the burner one more time to check the spark. I heard a good strong continues sparking and thought that it sounded stronger than before. I had failed to reconnect the hi tenison wire to the electrode and the wire was arcing to the chassis. Connected to the electrode it was a lot weaker and not as continuous.
Was able to find a new electrode locally and replaced it. Worked first time, every time and only had to buy one replacement part! Only problem now is that it is in the upper eighties in N. Arizona this week and I don't need the furnace.
Thanks for everyones help.
Harold
__________________
__________________
Once a full timer and miss the road.
'01 Nat'l RV, Tropical 33' Ford V10
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03-18-2007, 09:34 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: North America somewhere
Posts: 17,937
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The glass is half-full Harold! Next time you need the furnace it will work.
__________________
2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG 11B5MX,Infantry retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA. " My fellow Americans, ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country. John F. Kennedy
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03-31-2007, 09:48 AM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: The Evergreen State
Posts: 5
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I would like to thank Mr Dossett for his findings! My Atwood has had a very intermittent "no start" problem for the last year and a half. Mine would do all the normal functions including the snapping of the igniter but not light sometimes. I purchased a Manometer and found my pressure low (7" water column) so I adjusted it to spec. It was good for a week then it started acting up again and more frequently. After reading Mr Dossett's findings I removed the burner/gas valve/igniter assembly for the umpteenth time but this time I turned it around and reconnected the wires. Upon test firing I found the Igniter to be snapping and arching but not across the gap instead going to ground at it's base. Installed a new igniter and problem is solved! So if you have a no start and smell gas and hear the snapping of the igniter don't ASSUME it is something else, check the igniter operation by sight! Thanks again Mr Dossett! Randy
__________________
2003 Ram 2500 CTD QC LB 4x2 MT 4:10LS, Fuel Boss, Bilsteins, P-F Carbon Metalic, SmartyJr, B-Elbow, Lil'Rocker, Prodigy, TireMinderTPMS, Garmin4.3", SoundflySD. 2012 COUGAR 280BHSWE, Wave3, GY Endurance, TL GlowSteps, EU2000ix2 Propane, PD EMS, DishformyRV-HD.
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03-31-2007, 11:29 AM
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#5
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Community Moderator
Nor'easters Club Workhorse Chassis Owner iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 29,939
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pswilderness welcome to irv2. 
This is what its all about helping one another, thanks for your first post enjoy the forums and do post often.
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