Atwood GC10A-4E problem

[LeeSoCal]

This combo water heater will ignite and then go out in about 5 seconds. It will do this about 10 times and then stay lit. It works OK until the next time it has to start again. I have cleaned the connections, cleaned the flu and gas jet and installed a new gas solenoid which I see now was a waste of money. I have searched this forum and have called Atwood and both have good info but I still have the problem. Can you help?

[Clifftall]

Quote:

Originally Posted by LeeSoCal This combo water heater will ignite and then go out in about 5 seconds. It will do this about 10 times and then stay lit. It works OK until the next time it has to start again. I have cleaned the connections, cleaned the flu and gas jet and installed a new gas solenoid which I see now was a waste of money. I have searched this forum and have called Atwood and both have good info but I still have the problem. Can you help?

You are not alone . Same problem here

["007"]

Have you checked trouble shooting section for erratic flame?
Check wiring behind double switch if you have one.

[FleetMan]

I had that problem this past summer, mine got to the point it would no longer stay lit. My writeup is somewhere in the archives. I cleaned all the connections too, or thought I did. An Atwood authorized repair facility in Minot, ND repaired it for me very quickly and at no charge. The culprit was a corroded connection under the foam where the thermostat and EOC connections are. I did not peel the foam back and clean the areas he did. You might check that. It may require you to remove some of the sheetmetal in the area.

[LeeSoCal]

Thanks for the reference 007. I tested the diode and it tests shorted. I will be heading out to look for one tomorrow.

[RV Wizard]

Quote:

Originally Posted by LeeSoCal Thanks for the reference 007. I tested the diode and it tests shorted. I will be heading out to look for one tomorrow.

What might look like a diode is not a diode but a thermal fuse. It is marked on the side for temperature in Celsius. The purpose of this thermal fuse is to open in the event the fire rolls backward, out of the combustion chamber and shut down power to the gas valve. This does not reset and I doubt it is your problem.
I would suspect that the control board is not sensing the flame through the igniter electrode. Many things can cause this to happen. Poor connections, dirty tip (carbon build up), or a bad control board. I would suggest that thorough cleaning of connections and tip of igniter electrode be the place to start. Once the board gets the information that the flame is present, it should stop igniting and keep power on the gas valve. If you are interested I can send you a pdf file on flame rectification that goes into minute detail of this process.

[Clifftall]

Quote:

Originally Posted by RV Wizard What might look like a diode is not a diode but a thermal fuse. It is marked on the side for temperature in Celsius. The purpose of this thermal fuse is to open in the event the fire rolls backward, out of the combustion chamber and shut down power to the gas valve. This does not reset and I doubt it is your problem. I would suspect that the control board is not sensing the flame through the igniter electrode. Many things can cause this to happen. Poor connections, dirty tip (carbon build up), or a bad control board. I would suggest that thorough cleaning of connections and tip of igniter electrode be the place to start. Once the board gets the information that the flame is present, it should stop igniting and keep power on the gas valve. If you are interested I can send you a pdf file on flame rectification that goes into minute detail of this process.

Hey Mike, as posted by me , I too have this problem. Please send me that pdf file as well.

Cliff

[LeeSoCal]

Thanks RV Wizard. That explains that when I tested what I thought was the diode, it tested shorted. I already cleaned the electrode and all the connections. I will head out this AM to find a new circuit board and a new ECO/TSTAT assembly. First I will test the ECO/TSTAT to see if they have a complete circuit thru each and they are secured to the tank. Yea, please send me that pdf file also.

[RV Wizard]

I just remembered we have an area for files. There is a button under the panoramic picture titled "Files". Here is the file I have already uploaded on Flame Rectification. iRV2 Forums - Files - Flame Rectification Sensing Click on download.

[Clifftall]

Quote:

Originally Posted by RV Wizard I just remembered we have an area for files. There is a button under the panoramic picture titled "Files". Here is the file I have already uploaded on Flame Rectification. iRV2 Forums - Files - Flame Rectification Sensing Click on download.

Thanks Mike

[Clifftall]

Quote:

Originally Posted by RV Wizard What might look like a diode is not a diode but a thermal fuse. It is marked on the side for temperature in Celsius. The purpose of this thermal fuse is to open in the event the fire rolls backward, out of the combustion chamber and shut down power to the gas valve. This does not reset and I doubt it is your problem. I would suspect that the control board is not sensing the flame through the igniter electrode. Many things can cause this to happen. Poor connections, dirty tip (carbon build up), or a bad control board. I would suggest that thorough cleaning of connections and tip of igniter electrode be the place to start. Once the board gets the information that the flame is present, it should stop igniting and keep power on the gas valve. If you are interested I can send you a pdf file on flame rectification that goes into minute detail of this process.

Do you have anything that walks you through the cleaning of the tip process

[RV Wizard]

Carefully remove the burner assmy. (several 1/4" hex head screws) and I just use a piece of steel wood to remove any carbon build up. Be careful not to put too much pressure on the electrode and crack the porcelain insulator. If you do, or find it is damaged, you will need to replace it. I have seen electrodes start a flame but will not send good signal back to board. After cleaning if it still shuts down, I would try a good electrode before condemning the board.

[Clifftall]

Quote:

Originally Posted by RV Wizard Carefully remove the burner assmy. (several 1/4" hex head screws) and I just use a piece of steel wood to remove any carbon build up. Be careful not to put too much pressure on the electrode and crack the porcelain insulator. If you do, or find it is damaged, you will need to replace it. I have seen electrodes start a flame but will not send good signal back to board. After cleaning if it still shuts down, I would try a good electrode before condemning the board.

Thanks again Mike

[LeeSoCal]

I have changed the gas solenoid and the circuit board plus the eco and t stat. No improvement so far. I have a new spark /sensor ordered. I have over $300 involved and no improvement. I hope this new spark sensor makes it work. If that does not make it work correctly, I am going to measure gas pressure and system voltage. Sorry I have not been more helpful. I will post the fix if I ever find it or if I don't go broke first. Thanks for all who have offered information.