Atwood thermal cutoff

[CBChief]

Does anyone know where to purchase the thermal cutoff without having to use the Atwood one. What I really need to know what the amperage and voltage for the fuse is. I am going through these items on a regular basis, and Atwoods price of $10 each is getting expensive. Especially when the fuse itself is about a $1. What is printed on my fuse is: Microtemp, SVFAKL, G4A01, TF 098C. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

[hoppers4]

Here's a link to a product sheet.
Thermodisc - G4A01098C - Thermal Cut Offs - Microtemp Thermal Cutoff; 98 C, 120 VAC, 15 A - TESTCO
A Google search didn't turn up any retailers but a lot of distributors. Getting harder and harder to find specific electronic components for the individual user. Good luck!

[Mr_D]

Been RV'ing since 1957, back when most people heated their water on the stove (we had an instant water heater in that unit) and have never had a cutoff quit working or "burn up". Our WH is just barely under 9 years old and still no problems with it.

[RV Wizard]

The thermal fuses can be purchased at electronic parts stores. I don't have one in front of me and I cannot remember the temperature it is set to open. The current through them is very little and is not necessary as it is not a normal amperage fuse. They are in the system in case fire rolls backwards out of the burner and heat exchanger; to prevent burning the side of the coach up. If you are having to replace these you probably need to clean the "U" tube heat exchanger of debris like wasp nest or something.

[DancinCampers]

Here is a link to info I posted previously:

Atwood Water Heater Thermal Fuse (Source)

They are hard to find on the site, here is a link to them:

Thermodisc at Goodman's Small Appliances Housewares and Parts

Hope this helps.

[Hikerdogs]

You might want to give the Winnebago service department in Forest City a call. I remember there was a problem with some models around that time period that didn't have enough air circulation through the water heater cabinet. The result was that they kept burning out the thermal fuse.

One of the fixes was to put a set of spacers between the heater faceplate and the sheet metal door covering the regulator & fuse area. The spacers allowed enough air to circulate to keep the area cool and prevent fuse from burning out.