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Old 08-12-2016, 06:04 PM   #15
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Don't see why you cannot put in a bigger converter. It is worth pointing out that it will not charge your batteries any faster but may cook them better. I would be looking at a decent 3 or 4 stage unit. Might as well make it better as long as you are getting stuck with a bill.

FWIW - did you check the input of the old converter for a MOV?
Ok you got me there What is a MOV?

The voltage at the plug that the Converter plugs into has 120. If converter is unplugged. If plugged in the breaker blows
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Old 08-13-2016, 06:17 AM   #16
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OK MOV = Metal Oxide Varistor assuming my memory is still on track. Essentially a low quality, low cost, zener diode equivalent and the heart of most surge suppressors. They are a ceramic resistor that is sensitive to the voltage across it. Below it's design trip voltage the resistance is high, above that voltage the value is low. If you put one between ground and an incoming line like a power cord they will sit there as a small load as long as everything is working correctly. If a voltage spike comes along they trip at a value above normal line levels they draw a lot of current to drop the offending spike down to an acceptable level.

Protection like that has to be connected where the power cord is connected to the unit they are protecting. Either at the female connector if the cord is loose or at the circuit board or terminal strip where they cord attaches if it is captured. That makes them easy to find. They are a two terminal device usually round and ranging in size between roughly a dime and quarter in size.

The problem is that repeated hits or prolonged over voltage will cause them to fail and turn into either a short circuit or an open circuit. As an open they no longer protect. As a short they always shunt power to ground thus popping breakers or fuses. That is why cutting a lead is a useful trouble shooting move in that case. It is not a fix in that a bad one should be replaced. OTOH it could get the OP up and running while he gets a better answer.

Here is a more technical discussion and picture:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Varistor
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Old 08-13-2016, 08:02 AM   #17
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After reading all the answers . If I buy a surge protector that costs at least $300 or more and install, it will fix my problem.
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Old 08-13-2016, 12:09 PM   #18
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After reading all the answers . If I buy a surge protector that costs at least $300 or more and install, it will fix my problem.

I don't know if it will "fix" your current problem, but it will "prevent" future problems. Campground power posts are notorious for "bad" (under-wired, mis-wired, loose connections, damaged or worn component) electricity. This product (Progressive Industries EMS-HW50C) is much more than a "surge protector" and is highly recommended by many iRV2 forum participants. And its lifetime warranty is a BIG bonus!
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Old 08-13-2016, 12:20 PM   #19
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I don't know if it will "fix" your current problem, but it will "prevent" future problems. Campground power posts are notorious for "bad" (under-wired, mis-wired, loose connections, damaged or worn component) electricity. This product (Progressive Industries EMS-HW50C) is much more than a "surge protector" and is highly recommended by many iRV2 forum participants. And its lifetime warranty is a BIG bonus!
I agree that is a great product and all motor homes and TTs should come from the factory with one. But how does that help fix the problem I am having now. I didn't ask for a review or anything about a surge protector.
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Old 08-13-2016, 12:42 PM   #20
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Tex, to prove your bad converter theory, plug in an extension cord and use a different outlet on a different circuit. If it pops a breaker again then you can be reasonably sure the converter is toast.
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Old 08-13-2016, 12:54 PM   #21
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Tex, to prove your bad converter theory, plug in an extension cord and use a different outlet on a different circuit. If it pops a breaker again then you can be reasonably sure the converter is toast.
Thanks that is what I was asking for. I will try that as soon as I get back to the beach
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Old 08-14-2016, 07:42 AM   #22
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FWIW no protection device is 100%. At least none you will pay for and put on something with a power draw like a MH. All of them will help depending on the catastrophe that happens. The problem comes down to the speed and size of the failure. Losing a neutral on a 120/240 VAC system puts a high current but relatively low over voltage on everything. It's enough to fry a lot of stuff.
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Old 08-14-2016, 07:58 AM   #23
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FWIW no protection device is 100%. At least none you will pay for and put on something with a power draw like a MH. All of them will help depending on the catastrophe that happens. The problem comes down to the speed and size of the failure. Losing a neutral on a 120/240 VAC system puts a high current but relatively low over voltage on everything. It's enough to fry a lot of stuff.
I guess you don't get it. I wasn't asking about a surge protector. A new surge protector will not fix the problem I have now!! I don't need a class on surge protectors!! You have made your point. Your smarter than anyone else on surge protectors.
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Old 08-19-2016, 08:49 AM   #24
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I replaced the converter/charger now everything is working fine.
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Old 08-19-2016, 04:36 PM   #25
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I guess you don't get it. I wasn't asking about a surge protector. A new surge protector will not fix the problem I have now!! I don't need a class on surge protectors!! You have made your point. Your smarter than anyone else on surge protectors.
I was not saying that I was smarter than anyone else. There are a lot of folks who can and do say what I did. That is part of where I learned it. It was aimed at the folks who jump on the protection band wagon for every problem.

What I was saying is that all the protection devices sold have to sense the problem and then respond. The time it takes to do that is sufficient to damage some things. I also told you what to look for that might have gotten you back in business in a few minutes.
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