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lpasekof · 11-08-2015, 06:07 AM

I have an '03 Winnebago Journey with the infamous basement air. Actually, when it works, it works very well. My problem has just recently started with the heat side of the system.

After an indeterminate amount of time, sometimes short, sometimes not, the heatpump locks out and only gas heat runs - regardless of the outside temp.

Powering off the AC and DC power causes everything to reset and then its fine for however long.

When in lockout the system tries to first call for heat from the heatpump. I can see the internal amp meter jump up in an attempt to start the 1st compressor. Almost immediately the amperage drops and the gas heat comes on. From that point only gas heat will work until I do a power off reset.

Any thoughts?

Pelledan · 11-08-2015, 06:47 AM

If the unit runs fine in A/C mode, but doesn't in Heat Pump, it may be the circuit board. If it doesn't run in either, my first guess would be the start capacitor(s). If you remove the panel covering the condenser coil you will see the electrical compartment to the left. There are 4 capacitors in total. The two black shorter ones are the start capacitors one for each compressor, and the two taller gray ones are the run capacitors again one for each compressor. Disconnect any 120v shore line power source and turn off your house batteries. Carefully remove the wires to one of the start capacitors, then take an insulated screwdriver and short across the two terminals. This will remove any residual electrical charge that may still be built up in the capacitor. Using a volt/ohm meter set to check continuity, adjust it to give a full scale reading (or full needle deflection if an analog meter) with the probes shorted together. Then connect one probe to one terminal of the capacitor, and watch the meter as you touch the second probe to the other terminal. If there is a quick needle (or reading) fluctuation from zero to say 1/4 of full scale deflection then back to zero, the capacitor is good. It has charged and discharged from the battery power in the volt meter. If there was no deflection, the capacitor is "open" and if the needle deflected to full scale and stayed there, the capacitor is "shorted". If that test is to be repeated, the capacitor terminals must first be shorted again to remove any residual charge. Either of the last two scenarios would require replacement.
Dan

DancinCampers · 11-08-2015, 05:04 PM

I would check your freeze thermistor on the outside coil.

lpasekof · 11-14-2015, 05:38 AM

Thanks for the feedback. I think the issue is/was caused by low available amperage. When this occurred we were on 30amp service. Never had a problem there before but I'm thinking when there's demand on both compressors and don't have enough amps to service that the system can't properly start. My guess is the system senses this and locks out. Hard start capacitors might help as that high demand only occurs during startup. When we're on 50amp service no issues occur.