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Old 04-02-2013, 08:24 AM   #15
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Thank you for you great response.
If I read you correctly I wouldn't need the TricLStart.
One more question. I currently don't have the ability to plug in during winter storage so I use a solar panel as previously described. Would I still leave the solar panel hooked onto the Coach Batts with the Coach Batt disconnect left on?

Thanks again,
Stewart
Check my older thread:

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/yet-a...-s-145873.html

It's a little convoluted because of my original inverter panel problem and you can disregard that portion. The net is that I have a similar situation ... no shore power at storage and a solar panel. In my case, the solar panel could not keep up with the current draw of the BIRD and it's associated solenoid. My BIRD is disconnected while the RV is stored (and I don't really need it anyway ... solar keeps the Coach bats topped and the Chassis bat stays charged for weeks without ANY charging). It is my opinion that, in your case, stick with the solar panel and TricklStart solution. You'll also save about $300 in additional hardware. It is also my opinion that a BIRD and associated hardware is an overly complex system for most scenarios ... others are perfectly happy.
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Old 04-02-2013, 12:16 PM   #16
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Great counter point, and money saving too. I think what has brought this all to light for me was trying to get the full picture of the RV2050 BCC, and wither it had a BRID as part of its own system, to the novice it seemed like a logical thing.
The whole thing started for me when the Coach disconnect stopped working and I wanted to know just what that gray box did or didn't do. with the disconnect not working the result was that it stayed connected all winter allowing all the parasitic drains. I have a new solenoid on order as I write this. So with the solenoid working, solar and a TrikLStart I should be fine next year with out the cash out lay for a BIRD...I hope.

Thanks to all who responded.
Stewart
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Old 04-02-2013, 12:57 PM   #17
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Great counter point, and money saving too. I think what has brought this all to light for me was trying to get the full picture of the RV2050 BCC, and wither it had a BRID as part of its own system, to the novice it seemed like a logical thing.
The whole thing started for me when the Coach disconnect stopped working and I wanted to know just what that gray box did or didn't do. with the disconnect not working the result was that it stayed connected all winter allowing all the parasitic drains. I have a new solenoid on order as I write this. So with the solenoid working, solar and a TrikLStart I should be fine next year with out the cash out lay for a BIRD...I hope.

Thanks to all who responded.
Stewart
You are very welcome ... and don't even get me started on what an overkill, and unnecessary complexity, remote disconnect (the salesman switch) is ...
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Old 04-03-2013, 07:59 AM   #18
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Your batteries may be crippled after being run down for so long. Use a hydrometer after a good long charge to see if they are up to speed. Once you fix what is broken you don't need to think the problem is still not solved because of a new issue.
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Old 04-03-2013, 01:20 PM   #19
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Your batteries may be crippled after being run down for so long. Use a hydrometer after a good long charge to see if they are up to speed. Once you fix what is broken you don't need to think the problem is still not solved because of a new issue.

Thanks for that info, the Chassis Batts are AGM made by Exide, what's the best way to test them?

Stewart
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Old 04-03-2013, 03:24 PM   #20
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K Tool International HYDROMETER BATTERY TESTER - Tools - Mechanics & Auto Tools - Automotive Specialty Tools

Any automotive store or Sears
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Old 04-03-2013, 06:37 PM   #21
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Thanks YC1, I have one, but the Batts are a sealed type. So I'm thinking the only other way would be a load test I guess.
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Old 04-03-2013, 11:56 PM   #22
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Thanks YC1, I have one, but the Batts are a sealed type. So I'm thinking the only other way would be a load test I guess.
Peel the paper off the top or use a knife to cut the paper. You may find the caps come off with some prying even though they cover them up with stickers. Load testing is fine but I sure like to see the specific gravty myself.
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Old 04-04-2013, 04:32 AM   #23
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Peel the paper off the top or use a knife to cut the paper. You may find the caps come off with some prying even though they cover them up with stickers. Load testing is fine but I sure like to see the specific gravty myself.
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