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12-29-2014, 03:49 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: At various Florida State Parks.
Posts: 967
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Black tank valve - Oh boy
I had to do one of the worst jobs that most RV'ers dread - changing the black tank valve Actually I decided to do while at Griffin State Park, Florida since we had full hook ups. The old black tank valve had been leaking a little but last time I dumped about a quart and half of that golden nectar poured out into a cool whip dish. So time for a new valve. I back washed the black tank 5 times and let it drain for 2 hours. Turned out to be a very easy job and very little smell. Cost $16 for the new valve which included the two seals and the 4 bolts. Would have taken little under 1 hour but first attempt one of the seals bent over when I put in the new valve and when I tested the valve leaked. Anyway if it happens to you don't be shy and remember to wear those plastic gloves.
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George and Brenda
2005 Newmar Dutch Star 3810, Spartan with CAT7
2013 Honda Fit
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12-29-2014, 03:51 PM
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#2
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Litchfield Park, Arizona
Posts: 10,530
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Never a fun job but a lot more fun if you do it proactively and don't wait for the handle to come off in your hand with a black tank full of , well, "black".
Rick
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Rick, Nancy, Peanut & Lola our Westie Dogs & Bailey the Sheltie.
2007 Itasca Ellipse 40FD
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01-02-2015, 07:10 AM
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#3
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Member
National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 73
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Been wondering how bad a job that would be. Sounds like more of a dreaded job than difficult one. Most are with a little insight. Hope I won't need to change mine anytime soon, but I'll file this info away just in case. Thanks for the tip.
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2003 National Dolphin 6355 LX w/ W22 chassis; Allison 1000. Master Tow Dolly (for now)
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01-03-2015, 08:51 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 3,281
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Keeping the seals in place when replacing the valve is the hardest part. Cover them with Vaseline and they will stay in place better.
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01-03-2015, 05:34 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 157
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Two more tricks:
Tilt the coach or trailer towards the drain valve when you back wash clean the tank several times.
Then tilt the coach or trailer away, from your valve and there might be zero fluids to deal with at all. I got lucky, the grey and black valves were almost "dry" when I took everything apart.
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Dave
1998, 36' Foretravel, U295, rare mid door
2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee
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01-04-2015, 08:25 PM
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#6
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Community Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Between the Oceans
Posts: 8,019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myshaggydog
I had to do one of the worst jobs that most RV'ers dread - changing the black tank valve Actually I decided to do while at Griffin State Park, Florida since we had full hook ups. The old black tank valve had been leaking a little but last time I dumped about a quart and half of that golden nectar poured out into a cool whip dish. So time for a new valve. I back washed the black tank 5 times and let it drain for 2 hours. Turned out to be a very easy job and very little smell. Cost $16 for the new valve which included the two seals and the 4 bolts. Would have taken little under 1 hour but first attempt one of the seals bent over when I put in the new valve and when I tested the valve leaked. Anyway if it happens to you don't be shy and remember to wear those plastic gloves.
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could you share where did you get the valve and seals? my black valve is kinda loose but grey one is tight. i know sooner or later, may not be too late, i will need to deal with it.
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Steven & Polly
2000 Country Coach Intrigue 40' ISC 350
2018 Ford Explorer 4WD
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01-04-2015, 08:42 PM
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#7
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Member
Winnebago Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Boynton Beach, Fl
Posts: 96
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Tank valves
I got mine at Camping World. Messy, but not hard to change.
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01-04-2015, 08:54 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Ambler, PA
Posts: 2,853
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myshaggydog
I had to do one of the worst jobs that most RV'ers dread - changing the black tank valve .....
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How about when you are ready to leave and you pull the valve to dump the tank and.....nothing!! Thump on the pipe and manipulate the valve a few times and then whoosh. But uh oh, a piece of TP became wedged in the seat and now the valve will not close. Got that sucker out, cleaned and back in in 10 minutes. Might be worth it to carry a spare slide valve.
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Larry & Cheryl Oscar, Louie, Ranger & Henry (our Springers)
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01-04-2015, 08:55 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Country Coach Owners Club Solo Rvers Club iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 37,725
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake21
Keeping the seals in place when replacing the valve is the hardest part. Cover them with Vaseline and they will stay in place better.
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Are the gaskets Vaseline proof? It rots most rubber gaskets and other rubber things.
__________________
2009 45' Magna 630 w/Cummins ISX 650 HP/1950 Lbs Ft, HWH Active Air
Charter Good Sam Lifetime Member, FMCA,
RV'ing since 1957, NRA Benefactor Life, towing '21 Jeep JLU Rubicon Ecodiesel
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01-04-2015, 08:58 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: St. Augustine, FL
Posts: 3,595
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Suggest that you use plumbers grease rather than Vaseline. Plumbers grease won't affect the rubber seal.
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KIX
'02 Ultimate Advantage 40J Spartan MM - Cummins ISC
2013 Jeep Rubicon JK Unlimited
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01-04-2015, 09:23 PM
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#11
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Community Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Between the Oceans
Posts: 8,019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr John
I got mine at Camping World. Messy, but not hard to change.
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good to know. thanks.
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Steven & Polly
2000 Country Coach Intrigue 40' ISC 350
2018 Ford Explorer 4WD
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01-04-2015, 09:44 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Today? Clayton, North Carolina
Posts: 5,093
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake21
Keeping the seals in place when replacing the valve is the hardest part. Cover them with Vaseline and they will stay in place better.
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Smear both sides with plumber's grease, put the seals in place, then lay a thin sheet of plastic- like a piece of page protector or some such thing-- on each side of the new valve. Press them flat and they will be held in position by the grease, and the whole thing will keep the O-rings seated as well. Get this assembly into position and the pipe pressure will hold the assembly in place while you slide the two plastic sheets out. Then put in the four bolts and you're done.
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John and Diane (RIP Lincoln, 21 FEB 22) RVM103 NHSO
Fulltimers since June, 2012
2002 Dutch Star 40, Freightliner, Cat 3126, 2004 Element
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01-05-2015, 02:37 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: At various Florida State Parks.
Posts: 967
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I used pumbers grease (silicon grease) but one of the seals bent over. I didn't notice until tested and had to pull apart again. With my set up, another pair of hands would have helped to keep the pipes spread apart while I inserted the valve. Regardless, it was an easy job if you back wash a few times before removing the old valve. also a container to catch the small amount of water that may drip out. Just use throw away gloves and the job is pretty easy and the smell was not bad. Best of luck and happy rving.
__________________
George and Brenda
2005 Newmar Dutch Star 3810, Spartan with CAT7
2013 Honda Fit
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