carrier air V blower motor

[powerboatr]

Mine started doing a bit of a chirp this morning
so i pulled the cover and exposed the motor and managed a temp fix by lubing the sleeve bearings

then the search was on
for a replacement under 500.00

i found at grainger an item 4uu28 which is a perfect size, amp, speed and shaft lengths. all for 144.95

however it has a run capacitor already on the motor case
so now i need to know if i run the motor with the carrier capacitor or simply use the new cap and leave the old one for the compressor


i also found another great match but its a 4 speed motor vice 2 and it needs an external capacitor, which i then could use existing one.....


cant beleive a new carrier motor is over 500. for a daewoo motor

[RV Wizard]

Use the new motor capacitor and disconnect the old fan motor capacitor from the fan circuit but leaving the compressor side on line.

[powerboatr]

after much reading and calling, we found one to match, i will say 98% because my factory one is a 2 speed and the replacement is a three speed but is MORE efficient and i can simply not wire speed number 2 to run, and use low and high.
i included a pic of the original motor dataplate, its made by daewoo and is lacking somewhat....
and the new motor and its capacitor.


i am hoping it cools down enough tonight to shut off the a/c and do the install if i get all the wires figured out

[powerboatr]

new motor box label
purchased the motor from grainger for 500 less than what rv places wanted

[mrtinker]

When you say "old" capacitor... Would it happen to be a "Dual" capacitor? If it is then it will have a:
"C" (Common wire, that goes to both the Compressor & Fan)
"S" or "Herm" (Compressor Start Winding)
"F" or "Fan" (Fan)

If this is the case, disconnect the wire from the "F" terminal of the old capacitor.

Mount (be sure to ground it well when you secure it to prevent feedback to your tv and other electronics) it and then use one terminal of your new capacitor as "C" and the other as "F". (Not polarity sensitive)

You will have to connect the common terminal of your new capacitor to the common of the old capacitor with an additional wire.

And as far as the speeds go... unless there's a big difference in the RPM ratings your gonna be okay with connecting just the Hi & Low.

Hope this helps!

[mrtinker]

Yea, looking at your new motor schematic, the new capacitor won't even be connected to the old one... you'll just need to follow the schematic...

Any questions ask here BEFORE you energize it!

[powerboatr]

Originally Posted by mrtinker

When you say "old" capacitor... Would it happen to be a "Dual" capacitor? If it is then it will have a:
"C" (Common wire, that goes to both the Compressor & Fan)
"S" or "Herm" (Compressor Start Winding)
"F" or "Fan" (Fan)

If this is the case, disconnect the wire from the "F" terminal of the old capacitor.

Mount (be sure to ground it well when you secure it to prevent feedback to your tv and other electronics) it and then use one terminal of your new capacitor as "C" and the other as "F". (Not polarity sensitive)

You will have to connect the common terminal of your new capacitor to the common of the old capacitor with an additional wire.

And as far as the speeds go... unless there's a big difference in the RPM ratings your gonna be okay with connecting just the Hi & Low.

Hope this helps!

yes it does help very much


yes its a dual cap 12.0 , the new one is a 5.0
the pic is the factory cap, it does have three inputs

[wa8yxm]

I just replaced one.. Carrier, of course, no longer makes RV air conditnoers and thus Daewoo no longer makes the motors, so unless you find one lying about you are in trouble replacing it but not all is lost.

I went to easton electric motor service in Port Huron.

He found me a motor that was well under 500, in fact it was over 250 under 500

Now he had to modify the cradle but when we were done......

Fit the same holes in the main housing it did.

(Good things happen when two engineers get together)

Easton Electric Motor Services

Get ahold of Shannon (or just change the e-mail on the business card to "Shannon@) and ask him for the specs on the motor he sold me.. John Davis at Thousand Trails, should be enough ID: I'm very happy with the motor.

He may be able to send you one.. but I'd ask for the motor specs. Or have your motor guy contact him and they can collaborate.

[powerboatr]

Originally Posted by wa8yxm

I just replaced one.. Carrier, of course, no longer makes RV air conditnoers and thus Daewoo no longer makes the motors, so unless you find one lying about you are in trouble replacing it but not all is lost.

I went to easton electric motor service in Port Huron.

He found me a motor that was well under 500, in fact it was over 250 under 500

Now he had to modify the cradle but when we were done......

Fit the same holes in the main housing it did.

(Good things happen when two engineers get together)

Easton Electric Motor Services

Get ahold of Shannon (or just change the e-mail on the business card to "Shannon@) and ask him for the specs on the motor he sold me.. John Davis at Thousand Trails, should be enough ID: I'm very happy with the motor.

He may be able to send you one.. but I'd ask for the motor specs. Or have your motor guy contact him and they can collaborate.

the folks at grainger for me went above and beyond as well.
138 out the door and it was delivered next day
with my farm bureau discount
its just got to cool off before i go sit on the roof and play with it
so i am hoping the motor doesn't give us the ghost before i can get up there
oiling the sleeve bearing really made a difference on both units, amps dropped from 13 to 12 when running up front and down to 11 on the rear.

[eagle1tx]

Well Lets hear it , How did it turn out?

[powerboatr]

Originally Posted by eagle1tx

Well Lets hear it , How did it turn out?

pm sent with the details

[RV Wizard]

Originally Posted by powerboatr

pm sent with the details

How about in the open forum?

[powerboatr]

Originally Posted by RV Wizard

How about in the open forum?

skeptical of the "you did what" or "hey that is not a direct drop in"

and some one will get offended by "my" path to a repair.
but since i have no feelings........
stand by for heavy rolls.
i used a different motor, it has a built on cap.

Remember the movie "A space odyssey 2001" where HAL failed an antenna and made the crew go out side the spaceship to replace said device and then only to find later it wasn't failed at all, so they reinstalled and it worked fine and HAL then killed them all.

Well lets call my roof a/c HAL
after much searching and measuring i found a replacement motor at grainger supply, including taking back the first one and settling on the last one as a "BEST FIT"
its a model number 4UU28. Its by no means a drop in and go replacement, but it does meet the speed and up's the hp a bit. Plus its not made in Korea or China. It is shorter in the overall length for the motor body and has a built on capacitor so you will not need to lug it into the currently installed capacitor. The shaft ends, like all motors will need to be trimmed in length and are easy to cut with a powered hacksaw or by hand.

So here is the down and dirty
secure all POWER to the roof a/c
remove the plenum screws for the condenser fan cover and the rear cover of the heat exchanger.

remove the rear fan first.
then pop the clamps to hold the motor and use a 10 mm wrench to remove the cold air fan
then lay the motor aside.

I then took careful measures of the shaft height and relationship to the the plenums and then removed the factory motor mount
i acquired some alum channel and made new supports for the new motor to bolt in place on the existing mounting bracket
then mounted the new motor to it and went back up top to check the measures
and scribe exact shaft lengths needed ( this will not be the same as the old motor, so measure a few times before you commit). The shaft lengths are pretty flexible as well, take your time and "blue print" the install. get it as close to tolerance as possible for a smoother run.

then adjust as required for center and put on your fans.
then its a matter of plugging in the wires for the speeds and your golden.

now back to my HAL
the motor was squeaking but functional
so i removed it again and soaked the sleeve bearing with synthetic motor oil and ran it by hand to ensure it was lubed well
this actually dropped my running amp load by 2 amps.
and the motor spins very free now if you spin it by hand.
so i boxed up the replacement motor and mounting adapters and have it in the basement, for a quick change out if it acts up again or it cools off enough i can change it out without the risk of heat stroke.

www.http://bryantrv.com/docs.html

the above web site has the downloadable service manual for the unit and is pretty easy to follow
I also opened up the rear ac and lubed its sleeves bearings as well

the front one i found some rust on the bearing to shaft interface and I believe was the cause of the squeak and bind. funny thing is that area is exposed to COLD air from the a/c unit and it simply had condensate building up when cold air hit the hot motor sleeve bearing...duh


hope it helps


re-lubed motor has been running now almost non-stop for three weeks no squeaks

[wa8yxm]

Wow, You had to make new motor support.

All we did was "Cut" (I think we just unbolted) the old motor mount, turned one end around, the other way, moved it "In" a bit and drill-screwed it back together (Well the sides were cut off a bit) no new metal needed.

Did have to replace the clips with a different kind, but that is common and they come ready made.