changing to heat pumps help

[frank1]

i presently have two ac units on my DP and was thinking of changing over to roof top heat pumps.has anyone done this sort of conversion themselves and if so what issues,if any, did you have with the existing thermostats wiring . the thremostats now only operate the ac only-or heat [gas furnace] only. its a 99 gulfstrean sun voyager.

[bluepill]

3 points:

1. RV heat pumps operate only down to about 40 degrees unlike home units that can go below freezing due to crankcase heaters.

2. Heat pumps usually have a dual stage thermostat and may require a few extra wires, but that shouldn't be a biggie in relation to the whole job.

3. It's going to be a big job, and components have to be properly matched. You will probably have to replace the inside coils as well as the roof units.

[Mike Canter]

I am pretty sure that if you currently have the five button DueTherm thermostat that you do not need extra wires for the thermostat.

[Daytripper63]

The RV heat pumps are a fully self contained unit there is no indoor coil that is separate from the condenser like a residential system. You can get one of the new RV heat pumps that operate with a wireless remote control, it is a very simple switch from your old units.

[Cat]

I would add I really like my heat pumps. Sure keeps me from filling my propane tank every couple days. And I was pleased they worked pretty darn good down to low 40s.

[bluepill]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daytripper63 The RV heat pumps are a fully self contained unit there is no indoor coil that is separate from the condenser like a residential system.

Duh! I wasn't thinking packaged units.
Thanks for the correction.

[RV Wizard]

What model of AC units do you presently have? Easier question is what T'stat do you have? As mentioned, if you have the 5 button Duo Therm Comfort Control Center T'stat, all you need to do is match the model of Dou therm heat pump for this T'stat and set the dip switches on the units control board to correct setting of the type heating you have. If you have only one furnace the front unit dip switch should have "furnace" dip switch "on" as well as "heat pump" on. Rear unit setting will only have heat pump on. After installation reset the T'stat by holding the Mode and Zone buttons down and turning the T'stat on. If you now have an different T'stat I will have to do a little thinking or research to suggest the best alternatives. Let us know what you have.
http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/ccc5.pdf

[Mafiaman]

The question I have is, will the foam insulation in the ducted ceiling be effected by the heat off of the heat pump?
Currently my heat is floor duct, and AC is ceiling duct.

[John Hilley]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mafiaman The question I have is, will the foam insulation in the ducted ceiling be effected by the heat off of the heat pump? Currently my heat is floor duct, and AC is ceiling duct.

That shouldn't be a problem as the air temperature out of the heat pump is warm and not hot.

[ralper]

Just remember that heat rises. If your heat is in the air what will get it down to the floor to get it warm there? Heat the floor and cool the ceiling ! If there is a woman in the RV she will always be cool because the heat will be up at the ceiling. 45 years in the heating business taught me that big time. From experience I personally like my heat out of the floor.

[jcthorne]

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluepill 3 points: 1. RV heat pumps operate only down to about 40 degrees unlike home units that can go below freezing due to crankcase heaters.

That's not true any more. Duo-Therm has heat pump models that operate down to 20degF.

That said, its usually not necessary to convert BOTH roof units to heat pump. At 20deg F, the capacity of one unit is likely sufficient to maintain temp in the coach. Below 20deg, you are using gas heat anyway. At least that was our experience on our previous Bounder when we installed a HP in the forward position. Had intended to also do a HP in the rear but never had any use for a second HP.