Community Forums

CF-104 · 12-18-2017, 09:16 AM

OK ... sorry I don't have a picture of this but this is the problem as ......

Kitchen slide out has fridge bottom (access see pic #1) is wide open as expected so should allow large amounts of airflow.

Unfortunately when I look at the top / exhaust (ie: remove cover) the opening is about 1/2 at the bottom ----- 1/2 (maybe JUST less than 1/2) covered with what looks like 3/4" plywood.

Under warranty I've had the crazy loud exhaust fan replaced .. it's has helped somewhat ... but the exhaust fan runs WAY more then I can ever remember any other fridge fan running.

ME-THINKS that this is:

1. stupid engineering
2 bad quality control and he entire area of the upper fridge exhaust should be OPEN / free from obstruction.

Has anyone cut the 3/4 plywood away from the opening?

BTW ... I am aware of the work around for additional exhaust fans - but as things stand now =- there is very little room for them.

Old-Biscuit · 12-19-2017, 11:41 PM

Absorption fridges require very tight clearances to control draft (airflow) up thru absorber tubes (large slanted tubes) and then across condenser fins (at top) before exiting.

RV Mfgs have a bad habit of NOT following Fridge Mfgs Installation Instructions
Side walls, top and bottom of fridge should have ZERO Inches (0") of clearnace and back space should be no larger then 1" of clearance

IF fridge is installed with large clearance on backside then 'Baffles' should be used to direct draft.
Dead air spaces will cause airflow to stagnate ---build up hot spot.
And when fridge is installed in a slideout 'fans', baffles are most certainly needed.

Sounds like that 'plywood' is an attempt to clse off dead air space at top of fridge AND act as a baffle to direct airflow across condenser fins then exit via top side wall vent cover

Not sure which model you have....appears that it is a Dometic due to condensation drip hose sticking thru lower vent cover---Dometic does that. Norcold doesn't.
Anyway here is an example of Installation Instructions for Dometic Models---may have yours.
http://www.dyersonline.com/downloadf...tfile_id/2823/

And this is a generic fridge ventilation in a slideout with deflector/baffles

CF-104 · 12-20-2017, 07:10 AM

Thank you for the reply..... and picture.I've done a terrible job of editing / to demonstrate (with ugly RED line) where my plywood overlap is, as my explanation did not do a very good job.Does this still look right.

Old-Biscuit · 12-20-2017, 12:47 PM

The plywood was an 'attempt' to :
1) tighten up the clearance on backside of fridge
2) direct airflow to upper vent

Plywood
1) does make backside clearance less which is a good thing'''airflow goes more across condenser fins
2) BLOCKS lower portion of upper vent openings which is NOT a good thing......want ALL the airflow OUT top side vent as you can get.
3) Fans are running to more airflow....improve the draft BUT with plywood blocking lower openings in upper vent the airflow is obstructed therefore the condenser fins do not cool down \ the more heat transferred by condenser fins the more hot ammonia vapor is 'condensed' into cold liquid ammonia which then flashes into COLD ammonia Vapor when it mixes with the hydrogen gas----more means more cooling effect
**Typically fans are t-stat controlled by snap disc on fin....close at 135*F FIN temp starting fan(s) and open at 110*F FIN temp stopping fan(s)

I would leave plywood but cut off top portion even with bottom of upper vent frame so that ALL of the upper vent cover louvers are not blocked anymore.

Also........is area ABOVE condenser fins closed/sealed off so that no air is trapped..dead air space??