Circuit tester question

[RayJayco]

Hey Guys,
I don't have much experience in RV's...yet, however, we have a 46' sport fish that I am seeing is very similar to an RV and, electricity is electricity, so here goes... (should I mention that I have stayed at a Holiday Inn Express before... )

I am one that goes to excess, so keep that in mind and I am certainly not above protecting my protection, if you follow...
IOW, when you travel, say go on vacation, one of the first things that you quite possibly could encounter, say a bad shore power supply, can ruin your whole trip. What do you do when you blow your protection just when you are setting up to start your vacation...

So what I am designing for myself goes like this:
Plug into shore power, something like this Surge Guard Circuit Analyzer - (Just as an example, you can get something similar from any electric supply) as it will analyze your power source before anything is plugged in.
http://www.rvupgradestore.com/index....OD&ProdID=1814
If it won't fit the shore supply box, then I will probably use something like this GFCI as an adapter with protection
http://www.rvupgradestore.com/index....ROD&ProdID=888

I plug my power cord into them if all is good as I don't want to blow my voltage booster nor hard wired EMS surge protection, as either one of them cost more than the other 2 combined, and if I do encounter a bad source that fries something, I will still have protection to enjoy the rest of my trip instead of trying to get something hardwired repaired, replaced, etc...

Ken

[RVDude]

wilderness - Just a thought - you can forgo the analyzer if you opt for this model SurgeGuard instead. This model and the equivalent Progressive Industries model (also below) will NOT connect shore power if there is any fault in the pedestal. The analyzer is builtin and it'll tell you the error codes too.

Specifically to your rationale - These models will also protect you in the event of a neutral issue (or other fault) that occurs only when under load which happens quite often. The analyzer will say fine at no load, and once you pull a load the neutral or something faults. These units will disconnect the shore power in this case instantly. So me thinks you are better off with this scenario, or just carry 2 of these devices.

Portable Surge Guard - 30 amp - 55-2706

Progressive Industries Energy Management System 30Amp Inline - EMS-PT30C

[RV Wizard]

I would recommend purchasing a 50 amp model and wire in one leg or use a 30 amp adapter if needed. This way if you ever trade up to a 50 amp coach you don't' have to re-buy a unit that will work for it.

[Route 66]

The Progressive EMS units will test the circuits as soon as you turn the power on.

They don't "blow", but either allow or block power to the rig.

There have been rare occasions where protection systems have "blown", but it is extremely rare, and most of us have never had a problem nor worry about it.

[Rich_in_Tampa]

Got the EMS (I have a 50 amp MH) unit. A bit more expensive but somehow it seems like the right feature set, with the surge protector being a reassurance. I'm glad it has a lock-down metal collar.

[RayJayco]

Quote:

Originally Posted by RVDude wilderness - Just a thought - you can forgo the analyzer if you opt for this model SurgeGuard instead. This model and the equivalent Progressive Industries model (also below) will NOT connect shore power if there is any fault in the pedestal. The analyzer is builtin and it'll tell you the error codes too. Specifically to your rationale - These models will also protect you in the event of a neutral issue (or other fault) that occurs only when under load which happens quite often. The analyzer will say fine at no load, and once you pull a load the neutral or something faults. These units will disconnect the shore power in this case instantly. So me thinks you are better off with this scenario, or just carry 2 of these devices. Portable Surge Guard - 30 amp - 55-2706 Progressive Industries Energy Management System 30Amp Inline - EMS-PT30C

Thanks for the input!

I will have 1 of these hardwired:
http://www.rvupgradestore.com/index....ROD&ProdID=138
with 1 of these in-line before it
http://www.rvperformanceproducts.com/voltagecontrol.htm

Still trying to decide if I should upgrade to 50 amp service though...

As I said, I want to protect my protectors, (as well as myself plugging it in) thus why I was gearing toward a portable analyzer and a GFCI to be used before it can get to my aforementioned hardwired stuff (and me or someone else)...

(There is a difference in a GFCI and a surge protector...)

I doubt there is much risk in the RV world, however merely plugging something in can be dangerous and deadly in the real world...
One would assume that most supplies at campgrounds have been tested and used before, but that still doesn't account for corrosion, resistance, animals (eating insulation or their bodies actually bridging a circuit, etc.) and many other possibilities. I would rather err on the side of caution when it comes to personal safety...

[Todd Coffelt]

Just reviewing the original question and then some of the replies. The 120v line analizer which has a retail value of about $5.00 will provide every test on a 50A receptacle that it does on a single input receptacle with the exception of the voltage on one of the incoming load lines. The user can easily check the voltage of both legs by observing the readings of his v-meter inside of his RV. This meter would have to be moved to an outlet that recieved it's current from the opposite leg.
If checking the parks incoming line conditition was the prime concern, 5 bucks is a far cry from 300.00 to 450.00. Of coarse the other benefits of a re-settable surge protector is the hi-lo shut offs, and the surge protection. These features are the reason for the increased cost.
The line analizer and a PowerMaster Voltage Controller would be another option.

[SteveG]

I found this 50 amp ciruit tester and made one (see URL below). Cost about $75 for materials. For the light indicator I subsituted a illuminated rocker switch at $3.99 from Radio Shack and glued the switch in the "on" position. Easy to use and lets you know everything you need to know prior to hooking up. There is a 30 amp tester there which is also simple as it uses probably everything you already have.

http://From: http://From: 50-amp Tester

SteveG

[blacktie.shooter]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Todd Coffelt The 120v line analizer which has a retail value of about $5.00 will provide every test on a 50A receptacle that it does on a single input receptacle with the exception of the voltage on one of the incoming load lines. The user can easily check the voltage of both legs by observing the readings of his v-meter inside of his RV. This meter would have to be moved to an outlet that recieved it's current from the opposite leg.

Todd, you're talking more like what I had in mind. Way back in the '70s, I had a simple little plug-in unit that, I think, verified polarity, not sure what else it checked.

Would like to find something again that is low-cost and checks as much as possible for the price, to provide at least some assurance that I'm not going to have some major electrical issue.

Not sure what you mean by moving the v-meter inside the coach, or where I should move it to. Thanks for any help you can provide.

[Todd Coffelt]

Ken,
An RV with 50A capabilities has two separate incoming 120v feeds. generally one A/C unit is on one leg and the second A/C is on the other. The only RVs that utilize 220v are the all-electric buses.
What I was speaking about was the RV builder will put half of the electrical outlets on one side of the unit, and the other half on the opposite side. A few of the manufactures divide the front half from the back half.
That was what I meant about moving the single v-meter from side to side.

[Ray,IN]

Another reason for hard-wired is, you eliminate the hassle of CG operators accusing you of "stealing electricity" from others when they see your "box". (long explanation-different topic. May be found with a search)

[Todd Coffelt]

Ray,
That says it all. Just eliminate the hassel and have the best of all worlds.

[Ray,IN]

http://www.rvupgradestore.com/index....ROD&ProdID=136
offers a 50A line tester for $110.50. Their EMS system is the best option though.