Connect inverter to RV via local wall outlet?

[wb7auk]

The other way to do it is install a outside outlet where the inverter is and then
plug the shore power cable into it when needed.
Rather than run wires an attempt to over come a whole host of problem I think
I would do that.

[MPVman]

Originally Posted by wb7auk

The other way to do it is install a outside outlet where the inverter is and then
plug the shore power cable into it when needed.
Rather than run wires an attempt to over come a whole host of problem I think
I would do that.

If you do it the way i did there are no problems, Plus all i have to do is flip a switch

[unyalli]

Originally Posted by MPVman

If you do it the way i did there are no problems, Plus all i have to do is flip a switch

Understood and thank you for responding with a very viable option. The only draw back is my fully insulated and enclosed underbelly.

Here is my floor plan. The two bottom cabinets at the far front corners of the unit both have external access. I like the one on the patio side for accessibility throughout the day and either one as there just 4 foot away from the batteries. My power distribution center is under the stove.






I'm already drilling a 1 1/2" hole in the floor at the front inside corner of the right hand cabinet with a hole saw for a conduit that will carry the 6 gauge battery cables and the 8 gauge positive to the power distribution system (WFCO). There is a junction box on the frame with an 8 gauge wire that leads into the sealed underbelly I will connect this to.

To do it your way (which I would prefer) I would need to run a 12/3 romex down the existing planned conduit, down the frame, then up through another hole in the floor to the area under the stove. I'd rather not but after more thought I might. There's plenty of time. I'm assembling parts, theorizing, and planning while the snow comes down sideways outside.

[Luv2go]

If I were you I would not take shortcuts. One mistake, like pulling your shore power out of your "dead receptacle" with the inverter on will shock you or your loved one or worse. In all my installations I have used either a DPDT switch or a transfer switch (relay) like other posters have done.

I would highly recommend running the romex (thru conduit) down the frame and up thru another hole like you mentioned in your last post. I did this on our class C, I used conduit with type UF wire in it. Overkill but I wanted to make darn sure I didn't have an issue with accidental cutting of the UF wire in the future and also wanted to make doubly sure it was waterproof.

I oversized the conduit and used conduit elbows that have weatherproof removable covers so I could run the UF through (it isn't the most flexible stuff on earth).

[wa8yxm]

Originally Posted by unyalli

Can you elaborate on this please? Is it in your converter? Hows it wired?

Jeff

I have one of those too for one set of outlets. A double pole switch means it switches two wires (Black and white in this case) the switch has six screws.

I removed the cable from the box that originally powered the circuit and ran it to the switch It hooks to the "Center" terminals (Black on one side whtie on the other)

I ran a new length of Romex from the main breaker box to one end of the switch, again black is on the same side as the other black, white on the same side as the other side.

I ran a romex from the inverter panel to the other end of the switch, All blacks are on one side, all whites on the other.

All bare wires (Ground) are either connected together or I may have just left the Inverter ground open (no connected together inverter not bonded to ground).

Mine is an ON/Off/On break before make 2 step switch certifed for power line transfer.

2 step means you turn it off, THEN you turn it on, you can not go from ON to ON in one move like a radio shack switch.

And it is a real 30 amp switch too. (Even if it's 15 amp breakers that feed it)

Yet a better way is how the rest of the inverter powered circuits are done

Main panel----Inverter---Sub panel---Loads.

The inverter is a Prosine (Do go with TRUE sine wave please) and contains it's own built in transfer switch, (Also a batttery charger/converter, dang good one too) most top end True Sine Wave "in-line" inverters also fit this description.

The prosine, alas, has been discontinued.

[unyalli]

Ok I give. It means more work but as stated before I do like this solution better.
I'll need something like this



Toggle Switch DPDT on/off/on screw terminals.

And I'll mount this down in the power center behind the cover panel and clearly label it inverter shore.

Thanks you guys. This will make it fool proof.