Convection To Replace Microwave?

[MoonchaserTX]

The microwave touch pad in our 2007 Winnebago Sightseer-30 has stopped working and I see a replacement microwave is only $138 on sale at CW. Sounds like an easy swap.

BUT...I've read through a bunch of threads that say all good things about using convection ovens so I wondered if we should spend the extra money and go that route as long as we are at it. I dont want to do something stupid, though, that would put a load on wiring, or overheat the cavity where it sits.

Our opening is 20-3/8" wide x 14-1/4" high and does not appear to have any venting.

Anyone have suggestions on spending the extra money for convenction or not?

[wildtoad]

Do you currently have an oven? Do you use it? If the answer to #1 is yes and the answer #2 is NO or rarely then stick with a conventional microwave. Just my opinion.

[4Fun]

Another option you might want to check into is what is called a combination microwave and half-time oven. It works like a regular oven but whatever the recipe calls for you just cook in half the time. Our new HR Augusta has this unit.

[njs42]

replacement microwave/convection oven

search this thread--lots of info there----

[Gary RVRoamer]

A convection oven draws more power than a microwave only and also requires more venting for the heat. It is a real oven and gets HOT.

So you probably need a 20A circuit to power a convection oven and it will have to vent into the interior or you can install an external vent thru the wall. I've had both types of convection oven in our coaches - the current one vents inside (a minor nuisance in hot weather but nice if its cold).

[Clay L]

My wife really likes the convection feature.
A word of caution:
I have replaced two microwaves with convection types, one in my last motor home and one in my present unit.
I would highly recommend getting the "build-in kit" for whatever brand microwave/convection you get.
In convection mode, convection micros get much hotter than the standard ones. When it was first installed, the temp behind mine got up to 200 degrees F after 45 minutes in convection mode.
I did not get the build-in kit for my first installation and went through a lot of hassle getting the temp behind the unit down to a reasonable level. I ended up adding a grill above the microwave and an exhaust fan blowing air through the side of the motor home. This involved a lot of work and cutting through the side of the motor home.

The second time I got the kit and the job was much easier. There was additional sheet metal in the kit that formed ducts to move air in from the front and back out the front. It also came with decorative grills that make the installation look like it came from the factory with the unit already in place.

Note that there are some minimum clearances in back and on the sides that must be met. You should make sure the convection micro you buy is small enough to allow for the proper clearances.

The one I installed in my present motor home is a Sharp Carousel Grill 2 Convection R-820-BK (the BK stands for black, I think WT will denote a white one).
The dimensions are 20 1/2(w) X 12 1/8(h) X 19 3/4(d).

It was a little too deep but we (DW really) got a little creative and figured out how to trim the sheet metal on the build-in ducts so they fit behind the supplied grills. Also had to move a junction box on the back wall behind the microwave a few inches over.
It looks like a factory installation.

[bigskymt]

The documentation for whatever oven you consider will include minimum clearance on all sides as well as venting.
As Gary mentioned your current draw will greatly increase from microwave to convection oven.
We have a GE Spacemaker. Current draw on microwave only is about 900 watts (8 amps). When using convection plus microwave our current draw doubles to 1800 watts (16 amps). Ours is a dedicated circuit with a 20 amp breaker.
Unless your circuit was designed for 20 amps, both breaker and wiring, you'll never be able to use both microwave and convection.