Converters & Battery Boiling

[JC2]

In another thread on this website OK to leave it plugged in?
several members indicated a problem with the Magnatek 73XX servies converters boiling off the battery liquid. I too seem to be having the same problem also having to add water about every 2-3 wks.
If I replace my Magnatek with the current model, do they also have a tendacy to boil or have they corrected the problem????????
Do u have to replace everything or can just the charger side of ur converter?????
If I were to install a battery cutoff switch, and activate when not using the 5ver, will 12v items still be able to use the battery for power if needed????????
Does the Progressive Dynamics converter fiit into the same area as the Magnatek wo any problem????????????

[JC2]

In another thread on this website OK to leave it plugged in?
several members indicated a problem with the Magnatek 73XX servies converters boiling off the battery liquid. I too seem to be having the same problem also having to add water about every 2-3 wks.
If I replace my Magnatek with the current model, do they also have a tendacy to boil or have they corrected the problem????????
Do u have to replace everything or can just the charger side of ur converter?????
If I were to install a battery cutoff switch, and activate when not using the 5ver, will 12v items still be able to use the battery for power if needed????????
Does the Progressive Dynamics converter fiit into the same area as the Magnatek wo any problem????????????

[Ray,IN]

RV wizard is the expert for this question, hope he drops by. I also had this problem with our 1992 RV. Our 2005 RV has the same brand convertor but does not overcharge the battery like to old unit. There is a solid-state replacement for your convertor that does not boil the battery liquid. It fits in the same cabinet, just remove the old guts and install the solid-state module. I may be off-base with this but someone will correct me if I've hit a foul ball.

[RV Wizard]

JC2, the new electronic chargers and converters do a much better job at charging than your present charger. There are a couple ways that can fix your problem. One would be to find the 120 volt line feeding the charging section of the converter and putting a switch in line or turning off its circuit breaker if it doesn't also turn off something you want on. Replace the charging section with a new electronic section. Disconnect the charging section and adding a stand alone charger to the battery bank.

[Two Bit]

JC2,
We have the boiling problem in our rig (with a Magnatec 73xx series...and the converter manual claims that it will not boil batteries dry!).
It ruined the cheap Interstate 12 volt batteries that came standard. Now I have Trojan 6 volt batteries.
Since (when parked at home) we are on shore power all the time, I throw the battery cut off switch. This isolates the batteries from the entire trailer. They cannot power the 12 volt system when the battery disconnect is thrown. The converter powers the 12 volt systems since the trailer is on shore power. I plug a "battery minder/desulfating charger" into a 110 volt oulet and keep the batteries charged with it. When camping, I let the converter stay connected to the batteries all the time. The batteries can handle the "dumb converter" for a couple of weeks while camping before starting to boil off the water.

[Izzyblueye]

RV Wizard: I have the standard 45 amp converter charger system in my coach. If one turns the battery disconnect switch (OEM), to the off postiion while hooked to shore power, will this prevent the converter/charger from boiling the batts? I have float chargers installed for keeping the batts fully charged while not on shore power. Is there a down side to this arrangement. The converter works fine as far as I know. I have seen battery boil a couple of times while on shore power and batt switch in ON position. If I turn it to (off), it stops. Sorry did not see the post just before this, essentially same thing. Still would like your opinion. Thanks Homer

[RV Wizard]

Homer, to verify how your coach is wired measure the voltage at the battery(s) while plugged in and the diconnect in "ON" position. Switch battery disconnect to "OFF" and measure voltage. If it dropped then when your diconnect is "OFF" then the charger is on the load side of the diconnect. If the voltage did not drop the charger is on the supply side and turning off the battery diconnect will NOT prevent overcharging the battyer bank.

[Izzyblueye]

RV Wizard: Thank you for your response. Will check this out this morning. Your advice is much appreciated. We really appreciate the assistance you always offer.

[RV Wizard]

Everyone is welcome for any assitance I can offer from time to time. I like helping people.

[ronboc]

If I may jump in here....

I also used to have the Magnetek charger everyone is referencing, and it regularly boiled the bats dry (I still have this huge yellow-brown stain from the acid on the parking pad, 3 years later).

I went with the switch route for awhile. I made sure to switch the input side of the charger, because I noticed that it would put out as much as 15-17 volts at times without the batteries to pad/load it down, and worried about burning-out something on the 12v line.

I finally bit the bullet and bought the ProgrDynamics charger, when all of the coach bats died an early-death. WOW! What an improvement. The charger and the little Charge-Wiz gizmo are definitely plug-and-play, and then use-and-forget. I still regularly checked the water-level but don't think I ever had to add anymore at all. I ended up selling the coach a year or so later, but felt quite confident the batteriess would last a long time now.

I'm sure ProgDynamics aren't the only game in town, I went with them because of all the good stuff I'd read while doing my research.

Thanks!
Ron

(typical legal small-print here: I don't work for ProgrDynamics, nor am I getting paid to endorse 'em, blah-blah-blah. I just support things/people I like)

[JC2]

After reading various member replies, my choices seem to be:
1. Replace the charger portion(?) of my existing Magnatek 7345.
2. Replace the existing Magnatek 7345 with a newer version that supposedly doesn't boil the batteries.
3. Replace the Magnatek 7345 with a Progressive Dynamics brand and Charge Wizard addon.(This assumes it will fit in the existing cabinet now used by the Mag 7345)
What is everyones general consensus??????

[RustyJC]

Actually, the Progressive Dynamics Intellipower 91XX (XX being the amperage output rating) series converters utilized the Charge Wizard accessory (~$25). The new 92XX series converters have the Charge Wizard function built into the converter.

The 9155 in our previous 5th wheel and the 9180 in our current 5th wheel have given excellent service. Even here in the Texas summers, I'll top off the batteries once or twice a year, and our RV is plugged into shore power 24/7 in covered storage.

Rusty

[Izzyblueye]

JC2: I don't have the answer to your question, but you sure prhased it well. I'll be watching for some answers. as I have the same situation.

[JC2]

At this point, I am leaning towards the Progressive Dynamics setup mentioned by RustyJc and others as it seems to be reliable and hopefully not to pricey.
Does anyone know if it will fit in the same space now occupied by the Magnatek?