Dash Air Conditioner Failure

[BEBOP]

the dash air quit while driving down the road at hiway speed. I had just had a lube service at the workhorse dealer shop, and was on the way back to storage about 15 miles.
After a lot of checking looking for loose wire and vacuum connections and leaks, I gave up and took it to the shop.
they called me a quote to recharge and find/repair leak of 400.00.
I ok'd that.
later in the day they found the leak in the condensor and the price went to 1307.00.
I am now beginning to wonder if they get the new condensor installed will they find the compressor or Evans Valve is also bad?
I am getting a bad feel for this solution.
I ran the AC about 5 miles after it quit before I realized it had quit and shut it down. I tried it again another hotter day for a couple miles but no deal.
I looked at the clutch and I could see it energize when the engine was idling but as soon as it was accelerated it de-energized. I would run it up to about 2000 rpm and the clutch would drop out but in a short time it would start kicking in and out. this indicated to me that it needed recharging. Little would I know it would also need a condensor and hopefully nothing else.
What is your opinion on the above info.
Thanks for any advice.
Bill

[rvtips]

The condenser probably has a leak/hole that is why the system was low on freon,it can't be repaired it must be replaced.
That should fix the problem.I don't think you did any damage by using it when it was low on freon,it won't go on.
Good luck it's getting hot out there.
Phillip

Quote:

Originally Posted by BEBOP the dash air quit while driving down the road at hiway speed. I had just had a lube service at the workhorse dealer shop, and was on the way back to storage about 15 miles. After a lot of checking looking for loose wire and vacuum connections and leaks, I gave up and took it to the shop. they called me a quote to recharge and find/repair leak of 400.00. I ok'd that. later in the day they found the leak in the condensor and the price went to 1307.00. I am now beginning to wonder if they get the new condensor installed will they find the compressor or Evans Valve is also bad? I am getting a bad feel for this solution. I ran the AC about 5 miles after it quit before I realized it had quit and shut it down. I tried it again another hotter day for a couple miles but no deal. I looked at the clutch and I could see it energize when the engine was idling but as soon as it was accelerated it de-energized. I would run it up to about 2000 rpm and the clutch would drop out but in a short time it would start kicking in and out. this indicated to me that it needed recharging. Little would I know it would also need a condensor and hopefully nothing else. What is your opinion on the above info. Thanks for any advice. Bill

[mfire1339]

Depending on where the condenser leak is it can be repaired. Mine was done 4 months ago.

Mike

[BEBOP]

thanks for the reply Phil and Mike.
Mike tell me more about repairing your condensor. What had to be repaired and how and where did they do it at. Radiator shop??
what is the internal pressure of this system.
I don't think this should have happened at 10 thousand miles and sure hope it isn't going to happen every 10, 000 miles. But nothing contines to suprise me with this pig that has had 145 warranty repairs the first two years it spent most of in the shop. If it wasn't 30K under water I would throw it away :(
Bill

[mfire1339]

BEBOP, My condenser leaked at the top fitting. It was a bad solder job. Local Rad. shop repaired it, but I don't know how. I will call tomorrow and let you know if it was soldered or welded. Also the trans cooler is riveted to the condenser so they come out together.
That caused me to go get a gallon of transynd fluid to top off trans. Another $50. They run well over 200psi closer to 250.

[BEBOP]

Thank you for that info MIke,
Bill