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phillip_rv · 08-24-2017, 10:34 AM

New to me 1993 Fleetwood Pace Arrow. First camping drive 3+ hours with generator on and Dometic RM 2807 set to AC power (LPG turned off at tank while driving). No cooling.

We arrive at the campsite and i switch to LPG. For the first 5-10 times the flame lights, but then goes out after 40 seconds. I install two new 3A and 5A fuses. This doesn't help. I then use a canister of air on the flue, and all around the compartment. This helps and I can then keep it going for several hours - no cooling takes place. Indeed, the freezer actually becomes much warmer than the ambient air temperature. I slide the thermostat up the fin - no change in temperature.

There is not a smell of ammonia. I can see know traces of a leak, or having been a leak (clearly, it could have been well cleaned before I purchased it).

Is this thing dead, or is there something else I should be investigating?

Thank you,

phillip

BFlinn181 · 08-24-2017, 11:12 AM

Did you try the stove after turning the LP gas back on? Often air in the lines can take multiple tries to purge the air. These tries can exceed the appliance's safety cut out and needs to be shut off to reset.

Suggest you go step-by-step through this service manual to find the problem. Be sure to have a multimeter to do all testing of heating elements and components. Don't just 'throw parts' at it. Many will suggest something that they did to solve a similar problem, but go through a logical exploration of the problem to find a solution.

bdpreece · 08-24-2017, 11:23 AM

Too many variables to give you a definitive answer. Have you put a meter on the refrigerator power plug?

I personally don't think you have given it enough time on either power or gas to know if it is really working. If plugged in to electric at home, we turn our fridge on at least 24 hours before we put anything in it. If you just loaded it fired up the generator and took off it did not have enough time to cool.

I think if you do a survey you will find most of us travel with our frig running on propane rather than relying on the generator. Of course in my case I run the frig on auto so if I fire up the gen to run the roof air it will automatically select electric.

phillip_rv · 08-24-2017, 01:31 PM

Thank you, Bob, and thank you, Brian for responding.

Bob: The gas flow was eventually good on the fridge as far as it took many tries to get it to stay lit after many 40 second shut downs. Eventually, though, it stayed lit. Once the fridge was alight we did use the stove to cook.

I did use the service manual that came with the MH along with my with multi-meter to help me. However, after following your link I see that there were many missing pages from my copy of the manual - all the required measurements, for instance. I will go through those missing pages step-by-step.

Brian: No, I did not put a meter on the fridge plug - I will do that. The first three hours that the fridge was on AC there was nothing in it or the freezer. I'm surprised that after that time it wouldn't become a bit cooler? And then with the gas the freezer became noticeably warmer. That seems odd. But, I agree - I have more investigating to do.

There were two other clues that I neglected to mention: I found it odd that the fridge light did not illuminate when I opened the door. I replaced the bulb with one I found from he previous owner and it did not illuminate. However, I also did not check for continuity of either one, so they might both be burnt out (didn't seem that way, and the connections were free of corrosion).

The second clue was a gurgling sound that continued throughout the 'cooling' time. I have read that this can be a problem, but that how loud the gurgling is a matter of good judgement based on experience. If I was working on it from outside I could easily hear it, or stuck my head in he freezer I could easily hear it.

Lastly, my circuit board seems to have a different layout from the service manual. My 5A fuse lays parallel to the ground (dirt, not electrical) in the middle lower section, and the 3A fuse runs perpendicular to the ground on the far right side of the board (as you are looking at it). It also has Made in Canada on it. Is this the original or a replacement?

Again, thank you for helping.

-phillip

Mudfrog · 08-24-2017, 01:33 PM

Quote:

I personally don't think you have given it enough time on either power or gas to know if it is really working. If plugged in to electric at home, we turn our fridge on at least 24 hours before we put anything in it. If you just loaded it fired up the generator and took off it did not have enough time to cool.

We've had a number of rigs with propane/electric absorption refrigerators. True, none of them would come down to normal operating temperature in an hour. On the other hand, they would definitely be cooler than the initial temperature they started out at in that time. There is definitely a problem if the OP's was warmer than ambient in "several" hours time.

Phillip, i know you tried running it on propane with no results. Just want to add, make sure that the orifice for the propane flame is clean and not rusted out. One of the ribs rusted out on our Norcold's orifice a couple of years ago. The flame was there but the cooling was not. Problem went away when i installed a new orifice. I guess it's critical in directing the flame where it needs to go. Also make sure there are no obstructions in the flue such as bird or dirt dobber nests. Not sure where to go if these don't fix it.

BFlinn181 · 08-24-2017, 01:51 PM

Rather than opening the refrigerator to check for cooling, which will introduce warm air at each check, put a wireless remote thermometer in it and monitor from your arm chair.

hilgert · 08-24-2017, 02:06 PM

One of the projects I did on our Sunseeker was to replace the Dometic fridge with a residential unit...WAY more internal space (in essentially the same exterior space), freezer freezes stuff rock solid, and keeps cool without power (if needed) like a Yeti icebox.

Here is a link to my Dometic Fridge Replacement with Residential Whirlpool.

MSHappyCampers · 08-24-2017, 04:03 PM

Hi Phillip!

Welcome to IRV2! We're sure glad you joined the gang!

I would leave the fridge on overnight and see what happens. Three hours is not enough to tell much about it! Keep her between the ditches!

Good luck, happy trails, and God bless!

phillip_rv · 08-20-2018, 09:31 AM

I always find it annoying when a thread hangs, mostly because people try to help and then don't know the result of their advice giving. Well, here's an update - almost a year to the date. We used the fridge as an icebox for several months and that worked just fine. Last month it was taken to a repair fellow and he quoted many weeks and $1000 - so that sealed the fate of this fridge. I honestly don't remember what he said was wrong with it - though I could find out for the curious.

A couple of weeks ago I ran across the perfect fitting electric fridge on sail for $329 - that is now installed (easiest ever). Well, I do have a bit of inside trim to fit so that the insulation doesn't show, but otherwise - very, very happy with it.

Part deux: I have an open LPG pipe that did feed into the fridge. Obviously, this needs to be capped. I cannot find the size of this fitting anywhere in my manuals or online - does somewhere here know?

Thank you,
Phillip

Old-Biscuit · 08-20-2018, 11:49 AM

Thanks for update!

You originally stated.........evidence of know leak
" I can see know traces of a leak, or having been a leak (clearly, it could have been well cleaned before I purchased it)."

THAT sealed its fate..........DEAD cooling unit. Ammonia/Coolant/Hydrogen leaked

($1000 repair bill is to replace cooling unit)

Propane line........should be 3/8" flared plug