Dometic 2510 fridge won't cool

[Yaaintdeadyet]

Our 1996 Lance 480 carries a Dometic 2510 3-way fridge. It has performed well over more than a few long distance trips. Including short trips. Always prepped by a tried and true pre cooling process. We've run the unit on propane while driving. It always kept temp. When stopped it's switched over to 110. On both the fridge has kept the cabinet temp in the low 40's to high 30's.
As of now the lowest cooling that takes place is in the freezer. It doesn't freeze, just drops down 10 degree's or so from an initial reading. There's condensation yet no freezing. Previously the freezer would freeze yet the cabinet never reached the proper range.
I've cleaned the flue, burner assembly and secured all grounds and wiring.
I've done the check for the thermistor. It hasn't registered the correct ohm's during the test. I believe that issue is the thermistor the 2510 has in the cabinet. It's of a design I've never seen. Instead of a flexible wire with clip for one of the fins this model is thin metal. It slides in between the fins. It is similar in diameter to a ballpoint pen tip. It's been bent at different angles in some increments along it's length.
We've owned close to a dozen RV's. I've never seen this style thermistor.
What I'd like to know from those in the know is. Can I switch this metal thermistor over to the tried and true flexible style with plastic clip.
Thanks in advance.

[Old-Biscuit]

Thermostat is an all in one controller with a 'capillary tube' for temp sensing


Turn thermostat knob to MAX
MAX in gas mode will cause flame to stay on continuously (no going into bypass)
MAX in electric mode will keep element on continuously



If food compartment does NOT cool WAY down then:
*Thermostat is NOT keeping heat source ON
*Cooling unit has obstruction/blockage preventing food compartment to effectively cool



Unable to find ANY Parts List for 2510/2610/2810 (all have reignitors)
RM2410 has a parts list.....other then 2410 using piezo ignition and 2510 using reignitor the two share parts


http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/rm2510_52.pdf


http://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.co...ser-Manual.pdf




https://www.scamptrailers.com/images..._PartsList.pdf






You can 'test' cooling units capability to cool down
Remove the AC Element leads from the junction block
Plug leads DIRECTLY into end of an extension cord and then extension cord into known operating 120VAC outlet
Run element continuously ON for 12 hrs minimum
This will cause MAX cooling w/o interference by thermostat.
If temps in freezer AND food compartment get very cold....freezer below 10*F/food below 38*F then cooling unit functions and thermostat is bad
If freezer gets COLD/food compartment NOT---cooling unit blockage