Dometic fridge

[Jfree]

I have a dometic rm 2652 fridge and the check light stays on in AC mode and gas mode. I have checked everything with a multimeter and everything checks out like it should. I have checked from the battery to the converter to the burner, both control boards, fuses and thermistor. Everything reads like it should according to the schematics. It may be related to something else and I was hoping someone could help me. Here are some other issues I been having. My overhead lights will dim a little and flicker sometimes when the air conditioner is running. When it shuts off the lights get bright and stop flickering. My LP leak detector started acting up so I pulled the fuse on it to see if that was interfering with something. Things are still acting up. The converter makes a little buzzing sound sometimes and I can turn a light on and it will stop. I have checked the converter itself with some info I got from Parallax and it seems to check out fine. Any information and suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

[1skatingrin]

my old dometic rm2807 the check light means the frig failed to light. need to reset by turning off and than back on.It takes about 30 to 60 seconds to see if it going to stay on.I believe you need to have 12v available at frig for it to work, even on 120v.(it works the eyebrow lights)

[Dave78Chief]

I have a dometic rm 2652 fridge and the check light stays on

Check light only indicates the burner did not light within 45 seconds in LP mode.

Are you resetting the check light IAW with the manual before rechecking?

Are you checking this per the service manual instructions?
http://jular.ca/nv/data/pdf/26121_2852SM.PDF

My overhead lights will dim a little and flicker sometimes when the air conditioner is running. When it shuts off the lights get bright and stop flickering.

Check AC input voltage level. Sounds like you have low voltage.

The converter makes a little buzzing sound sometimes and I can turn a light on and it will stop. I have checked the converter itself with some info I got from Parallax and it seems to check out fine.

Lots of converters out there. What is you make/model?

Lots of different electrical implementations out there over the years. What id the make/model/year of your rig?

Dave

[Jfree]

Thanks for the replies. The check light comes on when on shore power. I switched it to gas and the burners lit and stayed lit. My converter is a parallax 7300. The whole rig is a 2004 trail bay 26 BHS.

[Jfree]

I checked everything on the fridge according to the service manual. Everything is reads correct voltage and ohms.

[Dave78Chief]

Note: If check light is ON when unit transfers from GAS to AC, then CHECK light will stay lit until the fridge is turned OFF the ON.

Turn fridge OFF (UP)
Disconnect the 120V AC pluc from the wall recepticle (or turn CB OFF if as applicable)
Set AUTO/MAN switch to AUTO (DOWN)
Turn Fridge ON (DOWN) [AC plug still disconnected]
Check light should be OFF and burner should light.

Note: Check light will only come ON in this situation if the burner does not light within 45 seconds. For the RM2652, this is the only thing the check light is used for.

Now connect the 120V AC plug. The unit should automatically change from GAS to AC operation and the Check light should stay OFF.

You should now be able to cycle back and forth between Gas and AC andcheck light should stay OFF.

If rig sits for a long while (ie over winter) then it may take several tries to get the GAS mode to work. This will result in the check light to come ON for each try. You simply turn the unit OFF then BACK ON to reset the light and retry the ignition sequence.

From what I recall reading online, buzzing is not an unusual occurance with a unloaded Parallax 7300 series converter.

12VDC Light flickering with AC ON would most likely be due to Shore Power AC voltage line drop (ie a brownout). If AC voltage at source is OK (>115VAC), then look for bad AC connections (SP plug, SP junction box, AC panel breaker). Be sure to look at both HOT (black) and Neutral (White) leads.

Dave

[Jfree]

Thank you very much for this information. As soon as I get a chance I will do all things you mentioned and I will post the outcome. Again thank you very much.
Jason

[Jfree]

I did the procedure in the order as directed. Burner lit and I let it run for about 30 minutes before I plugged it back in. The check light came back on after about an hour. I tried the procedure two more times and get the same result. I'm at wits end with this situation. As far as lights flickering with AC on and getting bright when it cuts off, it isn't doing that anymore. That may have been the rv park we were staying in causing that problem. Again thank you very much for your help
Jason

[Jfree]

I forgot to mention. I put a fridge thermometer inside and the temp holds around 36 degrees. Is this normal operating temp? My trailer is not under a shed, or any type of shade. The temp is the same mid day as it is in the evening. Thank you
Jason

[Dave78Chief]

Odd indications because the check light is supposed to only work in gas mode. Your symptom description implies the unit saw a loss of AC power, shifted to gas mode which then did not light within 45 seconds and set the check light. Then, the AC power would have had to come back ON resulting in it switching back into AC mode allowing the fridge to remain cool. Check light will remain lit if on gas and AC input returns.

First thing I would do is verify gas mode operation and see if the check light comes on in gas mode.
Disconnect AC plug and run on gas mode for several hours to see if the check light returns. If check light does come ON, then that should place the unit in LOCKOUT mode preventing it from relighting. With AC disconnected that will result in total lose of cooling while check light is lit. You have to turn the unit OFF then back ON to clear LOCKOUT mode and clear check light. That scenario could be caused by:
1. Mis-adjusted or damaged ignitor probe
2. Failing thermocouple
3. Bad Control board
4. Sticking or intermittent gas valve
5. Failing or intermittent ignition module
6. Corroded or loose wiring

If all checks out in gas mode, then either you have a loose AC power input connection resulting in fridge swapping back and forth between modes (ie: corroded or loose 5 amp AC fuse on lower control board; loose AC terminals; corroded AC plug/recepticle; AC recepticle wire connections loose; etc.); or the control board is has a intermittent problem.

Dave