Dometic Fridge issues?

[stinger608]

Right off the top of my head I don't have the exact model number.

The issue is, when I switch it over to propane nothing happens.

The fridge works fine on electric 110 volt but as soon as I attempt to test the system with the propane nothing happens.

Doesn't click, no lights, nothing. Checked the fuses inside the coach and all are good. Checked both 12V fuses and 110 breakers.

Am I to understand that there are also a couple of fuses inside the panel on the back side of the fridge?

For a reference the RV is a 1999 Layton 3010.

Some friends of mine have an 02 with a very similar fridge and when it gets changed over to gas you can here it clicking and lighting the propane.

Thanks in advance for any ideas and directions.

[450Donn]

Do you get a check light?
Turn the gas on, I assume you have gas? Light a stove top burner. Once you have a good flame, turn off the stove and turn on the refer, select gas mode and see what happens. BTW if the refer is already cold its not going to light until the box temp warms enough to warrent it.

[Old-Biscuit]

Yes there could be fuses on circuit bd.....backside of fridge


OR NOT..


Really depends on WHICH model you have


But if it does have fuses it would have two
One for the AC circuit.....glass fuse probably 5A
One for the DC circuit....auto blade type 3A


Bad AC Fuse....no electric heating function
Bad DC Fuse....NO fridge operation period. No AC, No GAS, No Display, No interior light ---nothing. DC circuit is for ALL functions




So without MODEL number it is just guesses as to issue
*fridge not calling for cooling so propane not operating....warm up food compartment
*propane hasn't been used in a while so flow has not been established to fridge....run stove top burners, start water heater, run furnace---get propane flowing
*Bad fridge circuit board
*Bad ignitor system


Guesses.

[stinger608]

Thanks guys for the input!!!

To answer the first question; no, the "check" light doesn't come on.

I've bled the system completely. I've run both the stove top and furnace without any issues.

Wow Old-Biscuit, didn't realize that the DC fuse would control everything. I figured it would control the igniter for running while not hooked to electric. didn't realize it would be needed for the AC to operate.

That may count that out.

I'm assuming these older refer's have the "click" type igniter that gives an electric spark?
If that's the case, it isn't doing anything. I've had the outside panel off and checked while the wife hits the gas button.

Hadn't really thought about the temp not being warm enough to call for ignition. I'll have to check that! :-)

Being in Wyoming and not running the heating system other than to do things in the trailer, it very possible that may be the issue. The last time I checked the trailer it was very cold outside and inside the trailer as well.

Hmm, might have to run over and kick the heat on with the fridge door open and allow it to get up to a warm temp and give that a shot.

Again, thanks a ton for the ideas and input!!!!!!

[Old-Biscuit]

Had cover off and wife hit the gas button.......


IS this a 2 door fridge (upper separate door for freezer/lower separate door for food compartment)


OR a smaller 'cabinet' style fridge>???


Upper control/display panel with Auto/Gas --temp button
OR
Manual controls above/below cabinet....AC/Gas switch---temp Max/Min Control ETC




Really need the Model to help with specifics vs guesses

[stinger608]

I'll get the model number on it today.

[stinger608]

Checked the trailer and got the model number for the fridge:

Model # is: RM2652

Hope that helps Old-Biscuit.

[joshuajim]

If the refer works on electricity but not gas, you can probably rule out that the box is too cold.

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by stinger608

Checked the trailer and got the model number for the fridge:

Model # is: RM2652

Hope that helps Old-Biscuit.

YES it does....6 cu ft/2 door 120V/Propane Fridge
Uses 12V DC for ALL functions/controls


Fuses on Lower Circuit Board
3A Auto Blade Fuse ---DC
5A Glass Fuse....AC

Upper display has:
On/Off Button
AUTO/Gas Button

AUTO or GAS Indicator Light
CHECK Light (gas fault)


NO Temp Set Mode/Button ---auto temp control (perset t-stat temp range based on thermistor feed back---sensor on FIN in food compartment)


In AUTO....
Fridge operates on 120V AC (priority) when AC is available.
No AC Power then fridge swaps to GAS and will swap back to AC when AC Power becomes available


Manual GAS....
Fridge operates on Propane ONLY
NO Swapping to AC


CHECK Light...
If fridge swaps to GAS (Auto) or is placed in GAS (manually) and Flame fails to light/prove it lit then CHECK Light is illuminated (FAULT)
That means circuit bd has made 3 attempts to ignite the propane flame and prove it has lit (flame generates a milliamp signal that returns to circuit bd....flame ionization)
No signal.....DC is dropped from gas valve and spark electrode


WHEN T-stat senses 'warm' temp in food compartment from thermistor on FIN it starts a cooling cycle
Circuit bd sends DC to SPARK ELECTRODE and at same time to Gas Valve Solenoid -----Creating a HIGH Voltage Spark which ignites the GAS.


DC is on gas valve solenoid for only 6-8 seconds during this 'Trial for Ignition' phase.
Flame has to light off and prove it lit during those 6-8 seconds


NO Spark.....
On Lower Circuit Bd....upper Right corner
P3 ---4 pin connector
*YELLOW wire goes to GAS Valve Solenoid AND to 'Reigniter'
That is the 12V DC POS
**GREEN comes from Gas Valve---DC NEG/Ground



Reigniter...
*YELLOW is 12V DC POS
*BLACK is GROUND
*GREY is HIGH VOLTAGE from reigniter to SPARK ELECTRODE


Should have 12V DC between YELLOW and BLACK when T-stat calls for cooling cycle
***Unplug thermistor leads from circuit board to cause 'CONTINUOUS" Cooling due to lack of temp sensing
Leads are the 2 WHITE Wires (P2 Connector)---upper LEFT area of circuit board.
Do this while testing DC Voltage on YELLOW wire to GAS Valve and Reigniter.


Got 12V DC on YELLOW and NO Spark
BAD Reigniter.
Replace it


NO 12V DC on YELLOW...
Bad Circuit Board
Replace it







Hopes that helps!

[stinger608]

Oh wow!!!!!

This is just what I needed to check this system out!
Thank you so very much Old-Biscuit.

You are for sure a great asset to these forums!!!!!


Once the weather gets to a tolerable temp and the wind isn't howling 60 mph, I'll get over there with this amazing information and do some checking!

Hopefully, if the board or igniter is bad, I am able to locate replacements.

Funny thing is, it works great on electric. But the gas check valve hasn't lite up so either the temp was too cold or there is an issue.

[Old-Biscuit]

Circuit Bd.....forget Dometic OEM
Get a Dinosaur Electronics aftermarket replacement.
Better quality circuit bd
Here is the Dino Bd

Dinosaur Electronic's 3850415.01 replacement page


As for reignitor....listed as Spark Generator Item #95 (pg. 9 & 10)
http://www.bdub.net/manuals/Dometic_...pare_Parts.pdf

[AudiDudi]

I just bought that same board for the fridge. PPL was ~$104 shipped and the local RV parts store was $164 + tax. Sadly, it did not solve my issue. Good luck!

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by AudiDudi

I just bought that same board for the fridge. PPL was ~$104 shipped and the local RV parts store was $164 + tax. Sadly, it did not solve my issue. Good luck!

Did you do any tests/checks prior.....
Throwing parts at an issue can get expensive.
A Voltmeter can be very handy

[AudiDudi]

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

Did you do any tests/checks prior.....
Throwing parts at an issue can get expensive.
A Voltmeter can be very handy

Yes, I have a volt meter and I used it. Agree, throwing parts at a problem can be expensive. At the time, the board seemed to be the most logical. Still cheaper than having a repair guy come out and spend 3-4 hours trying to find an intermittent problem - now I have a spare The issue apeared to be either the $100 board or the $400 converter. What would have come in handy was an O-Scope but I don't carry one of those.