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Old 08-11-2012, 11:06 AM   #1
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Dometic Fridge Up-Date

After checking this web site and a couple of others for info, here is what we ending up doing to make or Dometic Fridge work to our satisfaction.
We have a Dometic Model DM2862, basically this is one that only runs on propane or elect. We were not happy with the way it kept things cold. I could get the temp. inside the fridge down to around 35 to 36 degrees (air temp) and 40-42 degrees substance (glass of water with a thermometer in it). And I did move the thermistor around up & down, but the lowest temp I could get was 35 degrees. Freezer is holding at -15 no matter what.
I contacted Dometic & the tech advised that any air temp inside the fridge of 43 degrees or less was acceptable. Maybe to them, but not us. So I did a search on the web & found two different places that sold a "thermistor adjuster & "thermistor repair kit".
Replacement boards for Dometic I got the thermistor adjuster from them. Easy to install, just unplug the cord at the control board & plug the thermistor into their control box. Easy dial control.
Then, I got the "thermistor repair kit" from Dometic Thermistor Repair Kit This is another easy install, just cut off the tip on the existing thermistor and install their adjuster.
I contacted both Disnosaur electronics & Snip the Tip, and both assured me that their product would not harm the fridge in anyway. That it would just make it run more efficent.
I installed both products. I have let the fridge run for approx. 2 weeks and made several adjustments to lower the temp of the fridge. When I first started I gave the fridge 48 hours to adjust to the installed products. Temp. was 34 air, and 40 substance at the start. Now after several adjustments, the fridge air temp is 29 to 30 degrees and the substance temp is 34 degrees. After each adjustment I waited 24 hours to check the temp again. And the fridge has held that temp for the last 3 days.
There is room on the adjusters to go colder, but we are happy right where it is. I am not promoting the above products, this is just for info for any one else that may be interested. Also we are in central Florida, no shade where we are at, and it is in the mid to high 90's every day.
At last, cold milk on the cereal in the morning & a nice cold adult beverage in the evening.
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Old 08-11-2012, 01:24 PM   #2
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Thanks for your information Roger , I am going to add as another alternative in a sticky above.
It will not help Norcolds cooling coil problems but may for all the added fans without the Amish cooling coil conversion.
Will definitely for your Dometic as it looks like with your descriptions.
BOARDS FOR SMALLER NORCOLDS ONLY not the 1200 series.
I WOULD STAY TUNED THEY MAYBE WORKING ON NEW BOARDS FOR LARGER MODELS.
Keep us informed as time progress's of any changes in your conversion.
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Old 08-11-2012, 04:21 PM   #3
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Which model # board did you get?
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Old 08-11-2012, 04:51 PM   #4
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Quote:
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Which model # board did you get?
I ddin't get a new board. I got the "Thermistor Adjuster". If you go to the dinosaur electronics web site for Dometic Fridges, scroll to the bottom of the page and you will see the Thermistor Adjuster.
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Old 08-11-2012, 05:21 PM   #5
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Thermistor

We've had enough trouble with our Nocold that this post was like a magnet!

From my recent experience I suspect that at least part of the problem is 'gunk' between the fin & the thermistor.

We could not get out refer to hold 40F. I added a fan and it made no difference. Hot day, cool day? Made no difference. When we got home I took the thermistor off the fin and found rust, corrosion, and munge (technical term) between the flat surface of the thermistor and the fin.

I cleaned it off, replaced it and waited 12 hours. It definatly works better! When I checked it again it was just over 30F, and I had turned it down from 9 to 4. a BIG improvement in my book.

I ordered the repair kit and when I install it I'm going to use some heat sink compound on the new thermistor. It shold keep the munge out.

Thanks for posting!
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Old 08-19-2012, 12:04 PM   #6
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Thermistor Repair

I replaced my thermistor with the adjustable kit, turned the refer on and let it sit for about 18 hours with the CP set on 8. When I checked it this morning I had to turn the temp up a bit and the CP down to 5. Previously it's taken up to 2 days to get down to usable temps.

Happy so far.
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Old 08-26-2012, 06:46 PM   #7
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Awwww CRAP!

In the end I had to remove the adjustable thermistor because the refirgerator was too cold, even at the highest temp setting. The refer was getting into the 25F range on setting #1!

I put the original thermistor back in and the refer went back to being too warm.

I suspect that the 1200LRIM uses a different resistance range thermistor than the models this was designed to work with. Or perhaps I got a bad one?

I'll try to work with the vendor to figure this out.......
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Old 08-28-2012, 09:29 PM   #8
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Still Experimenting

I modified the $23 adjustable thermistor by addind a 4K ohm resistor in series, and clipping it to the #1 fin.

I turned the refer on and let it sit for 16 hours or so. When I checked it it was down to 28F so I turned the adjustment on the thermistor up a bit. When I checked it a couple of hours later it was up to 38F. Right in the neighborhood I want it to be.

Unfortunatly I won't know for sure if this is going to work for real for a few weeks. We had to take our rig in to have one of the slide motors replaced and we won't be going out in it for a while.
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Old 10-14-2012, 08:42 AM   #9
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Bit of an update after a couple of trips usings the add-ons previously mentioned. On one trip the temp's stayed in the mid to high 90's and our last trip we had some nice cool nights down in the mid 50's and up to low 80's dudring the day.
First of all, my DW tends to over load the fridge at times. No, better make that most of the time. So the temp. stays up a little higher than I would like it to be, but it is still a lot colder than what it was before I made the changes.
The biggest complaint I still have is the recovery time after the fridge door has been opened. Compared to a RR fridge the Dometic takes forever. We would see a 5 to 10 degree rise after opening the door, and it would take a good 4 to 6 hours or more to recover.
We do not boondock, and we do not run the fridge on propane, it is always on electric when we are using the m/h. So when driving we have the generator on to run the fridge and roof A/C's. One thing we have noticed is that when driving the fridge temp tends to rise between 5 and 10 degrees. Not sure why it does that, unless air flow down the side of the coach prevents good air flow behind the fridge. Once we get to a C/G and hooked up to elect. the temp starts to come back down; and again it takes a good 4 to 6 hours or more to recover.
Over all the changes made have helped with the cooling in the fridge, and made it more to what we wanted the internal temps to be. I would do it again, but if the fridge fails a residential will be next.
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Old 10-14-2012, 03:03 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OSP1268 View Post
Bit of an update after a couple of trips usings the add-ons previously mentioned. On one trip the temp's stayed in the mid to high 90's and our last trip we had some nice cool nights down in the mid 50's and up to low 80's dudring the day.
First of all, my DW tends to over load the fridge at times. No, better make that most of the time. So the temp. stays up a little higher than I would like it to be, but it is still a lot colder than what it was before I made the changes.
The biggest complaint I still have is the recovery time after the fridge door has been opened. Compared to a RR fridge the Dometic takes forever. We would see a 5 to 10 degree rise after opening the door, and it would take a good 4 to 6 hours or more to recover.
We do not boondock, and we do not run the fridge on propane, it is always on electric when we are using the m/h. So when driving we have the generator on to run the fridge and roof A/C's. One thing we have noticed is that when driving the fridge temp tends to rise between 5 and 10 degrees. Not sure why it does that, unless air flow down the side of the coach prevents good air flow behind the fridge. Once we get to a C/G and hooked up to elect. the temp starts to come back down; and again it takes a good 4 to 6 hours or more to recover.
Over all the changes made have helped with the cooling in the fridge, and made it more to what we wanted the internal temps to be. I would do it again, but if the fridge fails a residential will be next.
NDR 1062, same problems, marginally safe cooling in refer, freezer is great. Tried fans, and all that crap. IMHO a new Amish cooling unit will probably be the next attempt to get a reliable cool. Take care and thanks for all the info you have provided.
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Old 08-20-2014, 07:06 AM   #11
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Has anyone experimented with adding a resistor of about 1000-4000 ohms in series with the thermistor leads ? my dometic also runs about 48-54 deg on either gas or elect. but when I pulled the thermistor off the cooling fins and let it run overnite, the temp. dropped down in mid 30's. I checked the thermistor to fin contact and there is no corrosion. the thermistor just seems to have changed value. today I will do some experimenting with resistor and post findings over the next few days. Im going to my local electronics shop to look for replacements.
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