Community Forums

Teblues · 03-22-2017, 03:43 PM

I have a Dometic 1292 and it does not work on ac or lp. The control panel lights up, and says it is on, there is 13 volts to the control board, and 120 volts ac. The grounds all seem to be tight. I replaced the control board, and still nothing. I did not do a continuity test on the wires, but i am stuck on what could be wrong.
I took it out of storage and it started on propane, then quit. Started on AC then quit. Replaced the board, still nothing. HELP

APhotoWizard · 03-22-2017, 04:20 PM

If you have the overtemp recall mod installed (It is a small black box to the upper left of the outside compartment with two wires, you may have gotten water in the box or had severely low voltage that caused the box to lock out.

Here is how I reset mine when that happened.

Wait till everything is cold. Get the strongest magnet you have. (I used one my wife used to hold papers on the refrigerator at home.) Place it on the top right hand corner and hold it for a few seconds. You will hear a click. You are then good to go. Reset the controls and store you magnet on the side of the cabinet for use later.

It took me what seemed like a long time to get the click so be patient.

Hope this fixes your problem.

- Jerry

Teblues · 03-22-2017, 06:18 PM

Thanks, but no over temp box.

APhotoWizard · 03-23-2017, 11:59 AM

Well that is a bummer.

The only other thought I have is a bug or other pest could have built a nest in the chimney. If the chimney is blocked, that could cause it to shutdown on over temp.

Hope you find the problem soon.

- Jerry

BrianGlenn · 03-23-2017, 12:02 PM

Is the perk tube getting hot? Thats the first thing I would check. Thats the vertical tube usually on right side that has the electric element or LP burner under. The top of the coils should be hot as well.

Brian

Teblues · 03-23-2017, 02:47 PM

No, it does not get hot. I have been searching, but have not found anything like this.

Old-Biscuit · 03-23-2017, 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by APhotoWizard

If you have the overtemp recall mod installed (It is a small black box to the upper left of the outside compartment with two wires, you may have gotten water in the box or had severely low voltage that caused the box to lock out.

Here is how I reset mine when that happened.

Wait till everything is cold. Get the strongest magnet you have. (I used one my wife used to hold papers on the refrigerator at home.) Place it on the top right hand corner and hold it for a few seconds. You will hear a click. You are then good to go. Reset the controls and store you magnet on the side of the cabinet for use later.

It took me what seemed like a long time to get the click so be patient.

Hope this fixes your problem.

- Jerry

Dometic doesn't use the 'Recall Box' ----that is Norcolds fix
Dometic installed flame shields on recall affected units and a new stack high temp cutout device to secure 12V DC

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrianGlenn

Is the perk tube getting hot? Thats the first thing I would check. Thats the vertical tube usually on right side that has the electric element or LP burner under. The top of the coils should be hot as well.

Brian

Quote:

Originally Posted by Teblues

No, it does not get hot. I have been searching, but have not found anything like this.

Do you get a propane flame.?
Does it stay in 'Auto' when you turn it on?

Auto setting ---connected to shore power....fridge ON is only way for electric heat elements to operate (2 used on 1292 and BOTH have to work in order to cool)
If no 120V AC...then it would swap to LP operation and if flame doesn't come on you would get an error (CHECK Light)

So.....does it stay on Auto when you turn it ON?
Do you get a CHECK light when using 'gas'

Perk tube/stack has to get hot if either electric of propane is being used.
Even when cooling unit is not working....stack gets hot just due to HEAT source(s)

Please answer

Teblues · 03-23-2017, 07:13 PM

The control panel light shows which ever you have selected (AC or LP), The check light does not come on. There is both DC and AC to the board, but the LP nor the electric will start up.

**CountryFit** · 03-23-2017, 08:03 PM

i used to have a dometic 1292. it failed due to leakage of the ammonia. i ended up replacing it with a residential unit.

first, look at the bottom of the burner, located at your left hand side from the access door under the vertical heat shield. if you see yellowish residue in the area, it would be a perfect indicator of leaking. when there is no ammonia in the system, neither lp nor electric would work.

when my 1292 fridge was dead, it had worked just for 7 years. i believe whenever the fridge was working while coach was unlevel an irreversible damage would be made, until to the point the ammonia was leaked out and the fridge would do nothing.

Teblues · 03-23-2017, 08:51 PM

I cleaned out the burner area, but did not see any yellowish residue. Thanks for the tip, because that makes sense. It is going to the dealer tomorrow, and I will post what they find.

KF5UMC · 03-23-2017, 09:02 PM

The dealer my need this manual...
dometic-service-manual.pdf

Best of luck!
John

Teblues · 03-24-2017, 08:33 AM

John,

Thanks for the reference. Hopefully it is something simple I have missed. I dropped it off, and they were going to start working on it.

Again, Thanks for every ones help.

Ron

Teblues · 03-24-2017, 04:10 PM

I got the motorhome back from the dealer, and OF COURSE everything worked fine there. They checked everything on both the LP & Electric functions. It cooled on both, so I will just watch it and see what happens. It must have been the winter gremlins playing games.