Dometic - How To Turn Off Heating Element For Seals

[mitch5252]

I tried to reply to an older and very informative post about this subject, but no can do because the post is too old. I'll start a new one...

Could you please tell me what to do to turn off that power-sucking heater thing? I DO NOT care if the light functions - I just want to be able to dry camp more without that heater sucking my battery dry.

Here is a pic I just took of my 2015 Dometic 2662 (I removed the light bulb to take the pic). I pulled the gold thing with the black wires and the light went off. Does that mean that the heater went off, too? I tried to pull the white thing with the red wires, but I didn't want to pull too hard - I have been known to break things...

Please pretend that you are talking to an Electrically Challenged Child.



Thanks!!
Michelle

[Skip426]

Should be a " high humidity " switch in the top frame of the fridge; visible with the door open; when the switch is on the light stays on with the door closed, to help defrost the fins.

If you don't have the fridge manual it may be available from the manufacturer on there web site as a free download. .

[mitch5252]

Dometic has removed the switch. In newer units, the "dehumidifier" is always on, when needed. The end user cannot control it, except to cut a wire. I just don't know which one.

On the original post (2013) there were pictures. But those pictures looked different than my picture.

[Skip426]

No fuse on the control board at the back of the fridge ?
Can you post the model and year of the fridge , and I'll see if I can download a wiring diagram. Or if there is a wiring diagram visible with the rear lower vent removed , could you post a picture of that diagram.

EDIT: Just re-read your original post and see the info there, sorry .
I'll see what I can do , may be tomorrow morning though.

[Old-Biscuit]

Red Wire (12V DC +) comes from lower circuit board (J2 position) and is power for Humidity Heater Cable, Low Ambient Temp and Light

Black Wire (12V DC -)

[Skip426]

I downloaded a manual for the 2662, and I'll assume you have the three way fridge , with a 12v heater for use when traveling, so you don't have to run propane when on the road.
Page 9 of the manual , " DC mode " shows that the 12v heater can be shut off .
Page 14 wiring diagram , shows the power wire for the heater comes from the J-1 terminal , and that terminal has a 35 amp fuse on the circuit board . It may be necessary to remove a plastic cover from the control board; rear of the fridge ; to access the fuse.
If you feel the 12v heater is operating when the control panel says it's turned off and want to disable the 12v heater , remove the 35 amp fuse,

[mitch5252]

Originally Posted by Skip426

I downloaded a manual for the 2662, and I'll assume you have the three way fridge...

It's only 2-way. I don't know if that will change what you wrote??

Always something. Perhaps Dometic saved a few pennies by eliminating the on/off switch! Grrr...

[mitch5252]

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

Red Wire (12V DC +) comes from lower circuit board (J2 position) and is power for Humidity Heater Cable, Low Ambient Temp and Light

Black Wire (12V DC -)

Which red? There are two. FromZackdog's original post, it is the thicker red wire. Here is the inside of the compartment:

[Skip426]

Originally Posted by mitch5252

It's only 2-way. I don't know if that will change what you wrote??

Always something. Perhaps Dometic saved a few pennies by eliminating the on/off switch! Grrr...

I'll start off by apologizing for the info in my previous post .
You were giving all the correct info and I wasn't reading it properly.
Your thoughts on Dometic saving a few pennies is probably correct.
The manuals online are not dated, so I don't know if any there would properly reflect the set up you have.
Anyway back to the issue at hand, disconnecting power to the door frame seal heater. Dometic has saved a few pennies by using the terminals for the fridge light as splice joints for the power ( red wire ) and ground ( black wire) that feed the door frame heater.
In your photo , one of the black and one of the red wires, go through the opening and curve up and towards the front of the fridge. Those will be the wires running to, and from, the heater. The wire that needs to be cut is the black wire that runs up/forward, do not allow the cut wire to drop back through the hole as it could contact metal and complete the circuit and the heater would start operating. Using electrical tape wrap the cut end and secure it to the other black wire. That will shut off the heater and allow the fridge light to operate.

EDIT: Just noticed something in your photo that should make things easier ... I'll be back.

[Skip426]

OK , I'm back , that's the good news, but I'm trying something with your photo that I haven't done before , so that's the bad.

The wires ( red circles) that run forward and up ( red arrow) are smaller than the ones that run back and down . That makes them easier to identify.
Cut the smaller black wire at the yellow arrow, and tape it to the other black wire , pink circle.

[mitch5252]

.
Will pulling (gently, of course) J2 off turn off the seal heater AND the light?
I can pull it off, right? I don't have to cut it?



And I expect I'll have to put all this black box stuff back together at some point, right?
.
.
.

[Skip426]

If your fridge is wired the same as the diagram I downloaded ; except for the humidity switch ; yes, that wire removed will turn off both the light and heater.

Please re-install the cover to prevent , water damage to the printed circuit board.

[mitch5252]

Originally Posted by Skip426

Please re-install the cover to prevent , water damage to the printed circuit board.

Yes, I'll put the cover back on once I pull that J2 thing.

Thanks!!

[mitch5252]

Pulled J2 and the fridge light went off.
I am hoping for success!
And even greater success in the boondocking department - look out, NFS, here I come!

Thank you so much for your help!
I really appreciate it.

And hopefully this thread can help others.