Dometic or Norcold

[Racepix]

I won't taint this with the piece of carp we have.

If you had the choice when ordering your RV, which refer unit would you choose?

Norcold or Dometic and why?

Thanks in advance.

[Racepix]

I won't taint this with the piece of carp we have.

If you had the choice when ordering your RV, which refer unit would you choose?

Norcold or Dometic and why?

Thanks in advance.

[RV Wizard]

Just my opinion but I have and like the Norcold 4 door over the Dometic S/S refrigerators. Unless Dometic has improved their hinge design it is weak and the only repair is to replace the door. Since we are full timing we need as much refrigerator space as possible, the fresh food area with both door open is WIDE enough for larger containers of food. The Norcold also has built in fans on the back for removing the heat in hot weather. If any brand refrigerator is not installed properly it will not cool properly either. Maintenance is necessary to not only keep the warranty inforce but to assure that it cools effeicently and not lead to more sevier problems. Can you list some of the problems with out mentioning a brand name?

[Racepix]

Sure. You may or not remember, about a year ago, when we first arrived at our new home in INDY, I mistakenly plugged our 5'er into a 220V outlet . Well the results of that were, new inverter, Bedroom TV fuse, Living Room TV replaced and the 110V heat element in the refer.

Well, at the end of June '06 we sold the house in INDY and moved back west. The Tornadoes and thunderstorms were just too much for us. Anyway, here we are in Reno, hoping this is our landing spot and the refer has just carped out. The freezer works but the refer unit just doesn't cut it. I have installed an additional fan near the top of the back of the unit to hopefully vent heat out the top vent. This is an ALFA, "State of the art, The future of 5th wheeling, blah, blah". (That's another load of _ _ _ _.) Any there is no top vent as the refer is mounted in the slide. Well, it has now begun the game of blowing a 3A fuse on the board.

And not getting cold at all. However, the freezer is working great on propane. Are "Dinosaur" boards all that good? Should I replace the board? I have access to ohmeter (in storage) etc.

Thanks in advance.

[Tom N]

Norcold.

[RustyJC]

We've had 4 RVs - 2 with Norcolds and 2 with Dometics. The only cooling unit failure we've ever had was a Norcold - for what it's worth....

Rusty

[RV Wizard]

Racepix, be sure that the refigerator is first level. If not turn the refrigerator off, level the coach and let the cooling unit cool off; then restart and let it run for a good 12 hours or more before rechecking inside temperature. It is very important to have it level.

[Racepix]

Thanks Mike. It's level. Actually when we have been at some racetracks it's been out of level and worked better than now. The whole rig is dead nuts level.

[RV Wizard]

Operating these units in an out of level condition will kill them. I am sure that this is the contributing factor of why yours is no longer cooling in the fresh food area; it is restricted. You will have to have a new cooling unit installed but from this point on make sure it is either level or in motion. Good luck and take care.

[Racepix]

Thanks again. Actually it is working somewhat on propane. Much better than on 110V, however not as cold as new. When the rig was out of level is wasn't by much. Possibly one inch low on the left and 1 to 1-1/2 inches nose high. If that's all it takes then, this is definitely a lousy system.