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Old 04-05-2009, 07:58 PM   #1
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Dometic Refridgerator

Our double door dometic refrigerator model ndr 1292 suddenly stopped getting cold (we were on a 2 month trip and it ran fine on elec and gas, came home and it sat for a month and now won't get cold). Have talked to Dometic rep, checked all fuses, gas goes on, but still no cooling, ran on elec..still no cooling, no "gurgling", no ammonia smell or telltale yellowing that would indicate a leak. One service guy said might need whole new refer $4,000...another said might just be cooling unit $2,000. It might just be a Thermosyster (sp?)..next step is to take it into the shop for diagnostics, but would appreciate any advice or experiences you may have had with the same unit.

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Old 04-05-2009, 09:02 PM   #2
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MP,You don't say what does work in you post. I have the same model dometic.
0)Does any of the pipework in the back of the refrigerator feel warm or hot after running it for a while?
1) Does your control panel lights come on?
2) Is your 12 volt coach battery at least at 12.5-12.7 volts or higher? the Dometic needs a minimum of 9.6 volts to operate the gas valve!
3) What type shore power do you have connected? --(30 or 50). and If on 50A,are both legs powered?
Does the check lite come in the gas mode operation?
Before you consider the worst there may be some lesser causes. Such as a bad fuse or circuit control board. There are 2 fuses in the control board, a 3 amp and a 5 amp.

In the past I have had some success by simply unplugging and replugging wire connectors to some electronic control boards. as corrosion and dirt may interfere with good connections. The thermistor can certainly affect both modes of operation and should be an easy fix.
Try some of the above tips and post some extra info. Hope this is helpful.

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Old 04-06-2009, 02:36 AM   #3
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Was and is the coach level?
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Old 04-06-2009, 09:01 AM   #4
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Hi Marty,

Here is some more info:
1) The control lights come on just like everything is normal. when on gas, the gas light is on and the gas is making noise..lights fine..no check light..just no cooling either.
2)Battery is fully charged 12.4
3)At home we are connected to a normal wall socket on a 20 amp fuse...the inverter control is set at 20 amps..we have an energy control system that gives a readout of 22 amps useage when the referigerator is running, so i know it is pulling power.

I did check all the fuses, but I will pull the wires and check/eliminate any corrision. thanks for the idea, let me know if you think of anything else.


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Old 04-06-2009, 09:03 AM   #5
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Was and is the coach level? Yes..and it would not cool on a 3 hour drive, when the ammonia should have been moving around in the tubes.

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Old 04-06-2009, 09:45 AM   #6
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You said the gas is making noise... You never said you saw the light (Flame) In fact you have not said anything to make me thing you've opened the outer compartment and/or done routine maintenance on this unit.

Have you?

Step one in any diagnosis/repair is routine maintenance check your owner's manual for just what that means... A dirty birdy nesting in the wrong place (or the hornet family) and your fridge becomes a fire hazard and an oven.. Inspection (and cleaning if needed) is all it takes to make this a non-happening thing.. Just did my inspection (All clear)
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Old 04-06-2009, 02:24 PM   #7
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We heard the gas and there was a flame. We know that because the back was opened and inspected. Check for insect/animals. All clear. All mentainence has been done on the unit over the years. No problem, ever with the Refridgerator, until this last trip, when nothing.

Another question: Have you heard that it is better to buy a brand new refriderator, or replace the cooling unit?
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Old 04-06-2009, 02:46 PM   #8
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I do not know how long you have been setting but I would take coach for a ride with gas option on over a bumpy road and shake things up before spending money for new fridge or coils. My new at the time large Norcold, dealer wanted to pull and after I drove coach home fridge was working and has worked ever since. It needs a burp.
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Old 04-11-2009, 07:54 PM   #9
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If everything is working like normal. The ac/heater elements are hot, then I would open the board box behind fridge nd unplug the thermister for 24 hrs. Leave on a/c, this will run the fridge on wide open. If It gets cold that is your problem. The part is not bad, but labor may be since they usually pull the fridge to get the thermister in.

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