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04-05-2009, 07:58 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 12
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Dometic Refridgerator
Our double door dometic refrigerator model ndr 1292 suddenly stopped getting cold (we were on a 2 month trip and it ran fine on elec and gas, came home and it sat for a month and now won't get cold). Have talked to Dometic rep, checked all fuses, gas goes on, but still no cooling, ran on elec..still no cooling, no "gurgling", no ammonia smell or telltale yellowing that would indicate a leak. One service guy said might need whole new refer $4,000...another said might just be cooling unit $2,000. It might just be a Thermosyster (sp?)..next step is to take it into the shop for diagnostics, but would appreciate any advice or experiences you may have had with the same unit.
Thanks.
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04-05-2009, 09:02 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 1,502
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MP,You don't say what does work in you post. I have the same model dometic.
0)Does any of the pipework in the back of the refrigerator feel warm or hot after running it for a while?
1) Does your control panel lights come on?
2) Is your 12 volt coach battery at least at 12.5-12.7 volts or higher? the Dometic needs a minimum of 9.6 volts to operate the gas valve!
3) What type shore power do you have connected? --(30 or 50). and If on 50A,are both legs powered?
Does the check lite come in the gas mode operation?
Before you consider the worst there may be some lesser causes. Such as a bad fuse or circuit control board. There are 2 fuses in the control board, a 3 amp and a 5 amp.
In the past I have had some success by simply unplugging and replugging wire connectors to some electronic control boards. as corrosion and dirt may interfere with good connections. The thermistor can certainly affect both modes of operation and should be an easy fix.
Try some of the above tips and post some extra info. Hope this is helpful.
Marty
__________________
2003 34' Dolphin 5342, W22, UP, UPGBrake, F and R Track Bars, Rear IPD sway bar, Koni FSDs, Safe-T-Plus, Scan Gauge II.. 2004 Jeep Liberty, Blue-Ox Adventa..
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04-06-2009, 02:36 AM
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#3
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Moderator Emeritus
Country Coach Owners Club Appalachian Campers Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Chattanooga, Tn.
Posts: 12,060
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Was and is the coach level?
__________________
Mike, RVIA & RVSA Certified Master RV Technician
Amy, Dr. Assistant - Roxie & Mei Ling, four legs each
2000 Gulf Stream Scenic Cruiser 450 hp & 1330# torque
06 Saturn Vue, 06 Chevy Z71 4x4 & 2014 Corvette Z51 M7
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04-06-2009, 09:01 AM
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#4
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Junior Member
National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 12
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Hi Marty,
Here is some more info:
1) The control lights come on just like everything is normal. when on gas, the gas light is on and the gas is making noise..lights fine..no check light..just no cooling either.
2)Battery is fully charged 12.4
3)At home we are connected to a normal wall socket on a 20 amp fuse...the inverter control is set at 20 amps..we have an energy control system that gives a readout of 22 amps useage when the referigerator is running, so i know it is pulling power.
I did check all the fuses, but I will pull the wires and check/eliminate any corrision. thanks for the idea, let me know if you think of anything else.
thanks
mp
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04-06-2009, 09:03 AM
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#5
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Junior Member
National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 12
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Was and is the coach level? Yes..and it would not cool on a 3 hour drive, when the ammonia should have been moving around in the tubes.
mp
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04-06-2009, 09:45 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Roving, Datastorm users 3192
Posts: 755
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You said the gas is making noise... You never said you saw the light (Flame) In fact you have not said anything to make me thing you've opened the outer compartment and/or done routine maintenance on this unit.
Have you?
Step one in any diagnosis/repair is routine maintenance check your owner's manual for just what that means... A dirty birdy nesting in the wrong place (or the hornet family) and your fridge becomes a fire hazard and an oven.. Inspection (and cleaning if needed) is all it takes to make this a non-happening thing.. Just did my inspection (All clear)
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2005 Damon Intruder 377W Radio Active as WA8YXM
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04-06-2009, 02:24 PM
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#7
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Junior Member
National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 12
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We heard the gas and there was a flame. We know that because the back was opened and inspected. Check for insect/animals. All clear. All mentainence has been done on the unit over the years. No problem, ever with the Refridgerator, until this last trip, when nothing.
Another question: Have you heard that it is better to buy a brand new refriderator, or replace the cooling unit?
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04-06-2009, 02:46 PM
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#8
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Moderator Emeritus
Nor'easters Club Workhorse Chassis Owner iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 30,785
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I do not know how long you have been setting but I would take coach for a ride with gas option on over a bumpy road and shake things up before spending money for new fridge or coils. My new at the time large Norcold, dealer wanted to pull and after I drove coach home fridge was working and has worked ever since. It needs a burp.
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04-11-2009, 07:54 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club Nor'easters Club
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Gardiner, NY USA
Posts: 736
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If everything is working like normal. The ac/heater elements are hot, then I would open the board box behind fridge nd unplug the thermister for 24 hrs. Leave on a/c, this will run the fridge on wide open. If It gets cold that is your problem. The part is not bad, but labor may be since they usually pull the fridge to get the thermister in.
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Lenny and Chrissy
2 Boys & My Pups
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