Dometic RM2820 Classic Help

[wby340]

I currently have a Dometic RM2820 Classic refrigerator that is giving me a run for my money. The unit was installed in 2009 brand new and has never given us a problem until yesterday. In both propane and electrical modes the fridge doesn't cool down. Here's a general breakdown of the symptoms and my trouble shooting results.

1) There is power to the control panel. The unit automatically switches from AC to Gas when unplugged from shore power.

2) In gas mode can hear the burner ignite, and burn continuously.

3) All fuses have been checked, and are good.

4) The coils in the back of the refrigerator do not vibrate, and do not grow warm, even after several hours of operation.

5) I have no indication of the fridge getting cold regardless of the coldness setting.

6) In A/C mode, the fins on the inside of the fridge show no signs of vibration or condensation.



Have anyone else had similar issues that you have fixed? Any help that you could provide would be greatly appreciated.

Regards,
Bill

[SUMDALUS]

wby340,

I sent you a personal message concerning this problem.

Also, you may want to check out my blog about How the Cooling Unit Works.

[Sammie]

Quote:

Originally Posted by SUMDALUS wby340, I sent you a personal message concerning this problem. Also, you may want to check out my blog about How the Cooling Unit Works.

SUMDALUS, Just wondering, I have a Norcold 1200 with a new Amish Cooling System installed. Under ideal conditions, what is the lowest inside temperatures (freezer and fridge) one could expect to see?

Thanks
Sammie

[SUMDALUS]

Sammie,

I'm not sure what you mean by the lowest inside temperatures (freezer and fridge) one could expect to see. The best information I can provide is:

All RV cooling units are designed to maintain the following cold temperatures:

Freezer: 0 to 10 degrees F
Chill Box: 38 to 40 degrees F

These temperatures are considered to be in the ‘safe’ ranges for proper food storage and are considered ‘normal’ for an Absorption refrigerator.

As long as the temps are within the 'normal' range, for a 24 hour test period, the refrigerator is working just fine. That's what I strive for.

For the Norcold 1200 series, these temps are normally achieved with a control panel temperature setting of "5" (the middle between 1 and 9). Of course, as you know, outside temp has an affect on inside temps and the control panel temp setting may need to be adjusted.

An unnecessarily high cold temp setting may cause milk to freeze and lettuce to be extra, extra crunchy, while not doing anything for the freezer's temp. The freezer will respond as best it can, primarily because the thermister (temperature sensor) is inside the chill box, not the freezer. Anyone trying to make ice cream "rock hard" is wasting their time. An absorption refrigerator cannot accomplish rock hard ice cream. It has a lot to do with how the system works and the fat content in the ice cream.

The significant advantage your cooling unit has over OEM equipment is its improved durability (resistance to physical stress), which doesn't necessarily translate to improved temperature performance.

Hope this helps.

[Sammie]

SUMDALUS, Thank you for the explaination on how these units work. This has been an on going learning experience for me.

Sammie