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Old 06-30-2013, 07:34 PM   #15
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I have seen breakers fry before they trip Stewart. Might be as rare as frog hair, but....
I will check out the park breaker more thoroughly tomorrow. Perhaps I'll throw it tonight before I turn in as I'm pulling the shore cable from the post before I go to sleep.
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Old 07-01-2013, 08:04 AM   #16
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Pull out my handy dandy circuit tester, which I built based on another thread on the site. It's a 50Amp tester, but with a dog bone it just as easily tests 30Amps. Don't know why I didn't think of that yesterday, oh ya right, I can be a dumba$$ sometimes.
Anyway the circuit tests correct. 120v and wired correctly.
I'm going to get hold of the park Manager again this morning, I think I discovered why the park breaker didn't pop. I flipped the breaker for my site as indicated on the panel. The power stayed on. This would explain why it didn't pop in an overload condition. This is probably what is also causing the problem at the Txfer Sw. The breaker is fried closed.
One more thing to check before plugging in the rig. Going to spend so much time checking everything out that I'll just get set up and it will be time to leave. Lol.
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Old 07-01-2013, 08:24 AM   #17
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Progress is a good thing, Stewart.

Can you move to another site?
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Old 07-01-2013, 08:35 AM   #18
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Good catch!

When it comes to power, you can never do enough checking and double checking.

You can burn a coach down just as quick with faulty power as you can with a lightning strike.

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Old 07-01-2013, 10:37 AM   #19
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Went up to the front desk to talk to the manager. It was his day off, but because of the situation the lady at the desk called him. I told him that I had shut off the breaker which was indicated to my site, and that the power did not shut off.
Now this was his reply. I'm not making thus up because you just can't.
His reply to me was that he couldn't understand that because its all new breakers, and that (now here's the kicker) the site numbers on the tags no longer line up with their breakers.
At that point my Idiot alarm went off so I said Ok Thank you and hung up the phone.
But wait it gets better.
He calls back and was concerned that I had shut off the power to another site and would appreciate if I didn't do that anymore.
WTF? I couldn't get back to my site quick enough to pull out.
I will never darken the door of this place again.
Riverland Campground, Elmsdale, Nova Scotia. Canada.
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Old 07-01-2013, 10:55 AM   #20
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Do you mean that the circuit breaker wasn't on the pedestal but in a central breaker box? I've not seen a campground wired that way. Maybe it's a Canadian thing. I've always found CB in the pedestal, which I turn off before plugging in my shore cord. Then I observe my Progressive EMS display to ensure everything is wired properly and power is O.K.
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Old 07-01-2013, 11:06 AM   #21
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Do you mean that the circuit breaker wasn't on the pedestal but in a central breaker box? I've not seen a campground wired that way. Maybe it's a Canadian thing. I've always found CB in the pedestal, which I turn off before plugging in my shore cord. Then I observe my Progressive EMS display to ensure everything is wired properly and power is O.K.
Lots of them with central breaker boxes. Some even are new!

Best wished Stewart!
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Old 07-01-2013, 11:10 AM   #22
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Beverly Beach Camptown RV Resort in Flagler Beach has ALL 50 amp pedestals WITHOUT circuit breakers at the pedestal.

Welcome to Beverly Beach Camptown RV Resort in Beverly Beach, FL

Stayed there many times. Not common but you do come across these situations when you do enough traveling all over North America.

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Old 07-01-2013, 12:57 PM   #23
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Do you mean that the circuit breaker wasn't on the pedestal but in a central breaker box? I've not seen a campground wired that way. Maybe it's a Canadian thing. I've always found CB in the pedestal, which I turn off before plugging in my shore cord. Then I observe my Progressive EMS display to ensure everything is wired properly and power is O.K.
Hi Dr, yes the breaker is in a common box. Not necessarily a bad thing but when if as the Manager at the park admitted it is incorrectly identified it's a very bad thing. This is an older park, the only thing at the post is the receptical and the spigot.
We drove down to NH last year and found the cable hookup at the post a nice feature, haven't seen that here yet.

We're home now and the RV is parked, plugged into a 15Amp circuit just to keep the batts charged and the fridge running. We'll be back at it next weekend but not at Riverland. We'll be going to the Local KOA, it's a nice park and I know the breakers pop if you overload. Hoping for a 50Amp service so I don't have to worry about it.
I'll be monitoring the TXfer Sw throughout the week. By it's very nature it is resistive, therefore will generate a small amount of heat but nothing like we had a couple of days ago. I'm just glad I was there, it could have been a major disaster or even catastrophe had it caught fire at night.

I still have a couple of questions; Why did it generate the heat where it did, when at no other point down or up stream did it get hot, every other cable and connection point was normal. Is it a sign that the Txfer Sw is on it's way out or is already done for. How do I check it? I don't see a way to remove the Solenoid, it appears to be pop riveted into it's box.

I think I'm going to replace it anyway. Despite the park manager being a moron, and everything pointing towards the park power being the problem, I feel like there is still a cloud of doubt over the Txfer Sw. So to ease my mind, unless someone can give me a definitive answer, or way to prove the Sw, I'll just replace it for piece of mind.

Thank you to all who have responded. I can't tell you what a huge comfort it is knowing that I can reach out through the power of the internet and tap the incredible resource that is this site and it's members.
Stewart
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Old 07-01-2013, 05:29 PM   #24
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What's the name of your existing transfer switch?

If it's IOTA, get rid of it!

I would suggest the ESCO Lyght Transfer Switch 50 amp.

LPT50BRD [LPT50BRD] - $159.95 : RV Power Parts Plus, Discount store for all your RV & Marine Electrical needs. Featuring the most trusted Manufacturers in the industry: Iota DLS Converters, Transfer Switches, Magnum Energy Inverters, Parallax Power C

There are many reasons I like this one but the main reason is that the neutral is switched just prior to the the two load legs. That's important because if you lose the neutral your 120 VAC devices do NOT like 240 VAC power.

If you look around you may find it at a better price.

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Old 07-01-2013, 05:48 PM   #25
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What's the name of your existing transfer switch?

If it's IOTA, get rid of it!

I would suggest the ESCO Lyght Transfer Switch 50 amp.

LPT50BRD [LPT50BRD] - $159.95 : RV Power Parts Plus, Discount store for all your RV & Marine Electrical needs. Featuring the most trusted Manufacturers in the industry: Iota DLS Converters, Transfer Switches, Magnum Energy Inverters, Parallax Power C

There are many reasons I like this one but the main reason is that the neutral is switched just prior to the the two load legs. That's important because if you lose the neutral your 120 VAC devices do NOT like 240 VAC power.

If you look around you may find it a great price.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
Thanks for the heads up on that one.
My current one is a Progressive Dynamics PD52, 50 AMP.
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Old 07-02-2013, 12:26 PM   #26
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Richard,
Please help me understand how 240 volts is going to get to my 120 volt appliances by losing the neutral. Since only one of the 120v lines goes to any given device, it seems to me that losing the neutral just opens the circuit and doesn't apply the other 120 volt line to the device. Thanks
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Old 07-02-2013, 12:36 PM   #27
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Richard, Forget my previous post. I just got it. Thanks
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Old 07-02-2013, 06:04 PM   #28
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No problem!

For the others that are reading or following this thread, I'll explain why for them.

When you lose the neutral at the transfer switch the power hasn't been split until it reaches the distribution panel. That's where the 240 VAC is divided into two 120 VAC legs each one powering one half of your RV.

I am not an expert by no means and I may be wrong on this because I know just enough about this stuff to be VERY dangerous but mostly to myself.

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