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Old 05-16-2017, 11:27 PM   #15
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Just for information.

Fans are t-stat controlled
T-stat is attached to far right fin of 'condenser' (section of fins at top of fridge)
T-stat Closes (turns fan(s) On) at 130*F Condenser Fin Temp
T-stat Opens (turns fan(s) Off) at 115*F condenser Fin Temp

Doesn't matter WHICH heat source is being used..electric or propane .
Both heat sources are adequate to turn the ammonia from a liquid into a vapor (propane is only 18*F hotter then electric heat element....electric transfers its heat via direct contact with perk tube while propane heat is transferred via a spiral baffle in flue so amount of heat to 'boil' the ammonia is virtually the same)

Proper airflow thru fins of condenser causes the vapor to condense into cold liquid ammonia---fans provide added airflow when temps are high.
More airflow thru condenser fins the more vapor to liquid the more cooling can be achieved

Depending on 'access' you maybe able to reach t-stat from roof vent ----pull wires/bypass t-stat and see if fans come on......direct wiring.
If t-stat bad...replace OR leave bypassed and install a on/off toggle switch in DC POS to fans down in the lower access...then manually run fans

If replacing t-stat......find a snap disc t-stat with LOWER temp settings.
(On at 100*F fin temp and Off at 85*F fin temp)
https://www.amazon.com/Thermostat-Sw...9B2WKXYY4TWZK7
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Old 05-16-2017, 11:30 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mossrocker View Post
My Norcold 1200 lrim has worked great since all the recalls have been done. Lately however, I've been off shore power for 3 to 5 day stretches and my fridge has been throwing a "no co" code. It first happened when my older batteries ran down. It seemed to occur only when I ran it on b a batteries and up until today I could reset it and it ran great until the next time I was off shore power. Ideas? Unfortunately, I'm close to a camping world and may be forced to take it there.....

Fridge needs good strong 12V DC power regardless if on shore power, generator or batteries.
Circuit board runs off of DC power.


Replace bad battery
Fix/replace 'charger' (converter or inverter) IF it is NOT charging/maintaining batteries

RVs are self-contained......need DC power to function
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Old 05-17-2017, 06:19 AM   #17
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Thanks, I am replacing my batteries. Shouldn't the fridge run when my batteries are at full charge? They hold a charge but will only run my electric appliances for about 3 hrs.
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Old 05-17-2017, 06:34 AM   #18
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Regarding your comment about weak battery, since I ran the fridge on a battery which was less than full power 3 or 4 times, would that cause this problem? Operating this new to me RV on battery was just recent and I was unaware I had a battery issue until now.
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Old 05-17-2017, 02:51 PM   #19
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Update on my Norcold fridge, called the hq, tech thought it needed a hard reset was blessed to have a service tech nearby. He did the recent and charged reasonable price considering he responded in about 2 hrs. It took him less than an to fix it.
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