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Old 06-14-2019, 05:19 PM   #1
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Fridge Blowing Fuses

I have a Dometic RM1350. My 2013 Fleetwood Bounder 35K is plugged into my house, and I keep the fridge on all the time. It seems that every 2 - 4 weeks, the little glass fuse on the control board blows. I'd be a bit more concerned if it blew after a minute or an hour, but still something must be wrong. Does anyone have any thoughts on why the fuse lasts several weeks before blowing?

Thanks!
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Old 06-14-2019, 05:43 PM   #2
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Are there signs of overheating near the fuse holder? A browning of the circuit board? A browning of the crimp connectors insulation? Is there enough ventilation?

FYI: Fuses blow due to heat. They are self heating. Watts = A * A * Ohms. The environments temperature will change the blow current (A).


Also the basic stuff: Is you rig level? The fridge might be getting to hot back there. Norcold level spec is within 3 degrees side to side and 6 degrees front to back (of fridge).
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Old 06-14-2019, 06:00 PM   #3
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Sure it's the proper amperage fuse?
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Old 06-14-2019, 06:36 PM   #4
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Are you getting intermittent low voltage thereby causing excess amperage draw?
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Old 06-14-2019, 10:04 PM   #5
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The 5 amp AC fuse is designed to protect the integrity of the AC detection and heater circuit from shorts.



Fridge uses TWO 210W elements wired in series -----420W total at 3.5A
The 2 elements together should test at 34 ohms

Fridge AC will function between 100V - 132C


You have an intermittent short....element leads/insulation breaking down, elements slowly dying, circuit board

It has to do with the fridge AC circuit vs AC Power to RV


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Old 06-15-2019, 06:30 PM   #6
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As an experienced troubleshooter I would never discount any possibility. I believe, it is most likely you are experiencing "nuisance blowing".
https://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/f...p_derating.pdf

To prevent this the current should be 25% less than fuse rating. The fuse (line B on graph) could De-Rate 5% at 60c. All is fine if heater is really 34 ohms. But it could be 34 ohms +/- 20%. Maybe putting it in the "nuisance blowing" territory.
All the more reason to check connections for signs of overheating that might conduct heat to the fuse.
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Old Yesterday, 04:12 AM   #7
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Thank you, everyone, for all the great information! When the current fuse goes, I'll look for some of the things mentioned and take it from there.
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Old Yesterday, 09:00 AM   #8
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I got to thinking about Old-Biscuits suggestion that the heating element may have a short. Such a short to electrical ground would trip a GFCI outlet. I don't know if the OP has one in the lineup. They do make GFCI extension cords and the Fridge AC could be plugged into that.

https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Light...s%2C230&sr=8-4
A Kill-A-Watt hour meter would also be helpful to see if your in the "nuisance blow" territory of the fuse.
https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Elec...ll%2Caps%2C267
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