Fridge/Freezer wattage????

[PSS-Mag]

This may have been discused before, I didn't find anything searching these forums.

Does anyone happen to know what a typical fridge and freezer unit from the 70's might use wattage wise?

[PSS-Mag]

This may have been discused before, I didn't find anything searching these forums.

Does anyone happen to know what a typical fridge and freezer unit from the 70's might use wattage wise?

[RV Wizard]

Back in the 70's equipment was not designed with energy conservation in mind and therefore typical compressor amperages were 4-5 amps. Even in defrost you should be ok with this figure. To obtain wattage just multiply the voltage you are using to the amperage of the unit.

[PSS-Mag]

About 550 watts (110 @ 5 amps.)
So my 900 watt inverter should work to get it to 1 hr drive to a camp site if the propane side doesnt work, which I'm assuming it's probably not going to.

Good to have a back up plan anyway.

Do these have compressors? I've never heard anyone's kick on? Honestly not sure how they remove the heat. Got to find where this one plugs in or hooks up too. I need a Haynes manual! LOL

[Joe-K]

The RV style refridgerators which use either propane or electric for a heat source are referred to as gas absorbtion units. The electric heating element in your rig should be 300-400 watts so even with the small additional electric draw of the unit, you should still be around half the capacity of the fridge.

Another option since your drive is only 1 hour is to allow the fridge to cool for a day before your trip, then just shut the fridge down for the hour. You items will stay cold inside providing you don't excessivly open the door prior to hookin gback up to power again.

[Wayne R]

I just had the compressor changed in my ammana referigerator in my MH and the tech hooked up a meter and my compressoer was draiwing 1.8 amps

[PSS-Mag]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Joe-K:
The RV style refridgerators which use either propane or electric for a heat source are referred to as gas absorbtion units. The electric heating element in your rig should be 300-400 watts so even with the small additional electric draw of the unit, you should still be around half the capacity of the fridge.

Another option since your drive is only 1 hour is to allow the fridge to cool for a day before your trip, then just shut the fridge down for the hour. You items will stay cold inside providing you don't excessivly open the door prior to hookin gback up to power again. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Ok I'd never heard of this, little research and it makes more since now. I was tottaly wrong on how it worked. I assumed it was using propane as the refridgerant and burning off the execess since there was no compressor/evaporator to recycle it back to the bottle. Actually uing the pressure from the bottle as the "compressor" replacment. I couldn't figure out how in the world it was running on electricity with out a compressor.

Man that helps me understand a bunch!!!!
Thanks a million for that info.

[RV Wizard]

I want to apologize, I read "typical" to be residential. Sorry if I muddied the waters. Somtimes at this hour I am not quite awake. I am glad you have found the answer you were looking for.

[PSS-Mag]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by RV Wizard:
I want to apologize, I read "typical" to be residential. Sorry if I muddied the waters. Somtimes at this hour I am not quite awake. I am glad you have found the answer you were looking for. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

No problem, more of a fault on my end. I should have specified that it wasn't a home unit.

Also my post was early in the evening, I should have been awake and I sure wasnt drunk, so I have no excuse.