Fridge inverter questions

[Bobbafett]

I want to install an inverter just for the fridge.
Not the whole RV. So I want to keep the converter and put the inverter for the fridge. Dometic in a 2005 pursuit. The normal 2 way propane/ 120.

My question is how is the best way to install. When on shore power or generator I want the fridge to run from that. When driving on want it to work off the 2 6v house batteries then back automatically when plugged in.

[okcnewbie]

I think all you need to do is get an inverter with pass-through.
Just install it in the bay next to batteries if possible.

[Bobbafett]

Originally Posted by okcnewbie

I think all you need to do is get an inverter with pass-through.
Just install it in the bay next to batteries if possible.

Right. Most are pass through. But looking how to install inverter and keep my converter as well.

Can't install next to batteries. They are in the front. Not underneath or the steps like other ones. Will run cables to front and install next to converter

[Bobbafett]

Now that I'm thinking about it. The price difference between a smaller inverter and a 5000watt might not be that different.

[twinboat]

You want to run 120 volt wiring long distance, not the 12 volt inverter cables.

A 2 volt drop over the 12 volt cables is going to shut down the inverter.
A 5 volt drop on 120 volt cord, won't hurt a thing.

Are you wanting to run the gas/electric fridge ?
They are high amp draw on 120 volts. Could be up to 50 amps from your batteries and alternator.

Doing that, or a resedental 120 volt fridge, will only need a 1000 watt inverter. Preferably a Pure Sine Wave model.

[Bobbafett]

Originally Posted by twinboat

You want to run 120 volt wiring long distance, not the 12 volt inverter cables.

A 2 volt drop over the 12 volt cables is going to shut down the inverter.
A 5 volt drop on 120 volt cord, won't hurt a thing.

Are you wanting to run the gas/electric fridge ?
They are high amp draw on 120 volts. Could be up to 50 amps from your batteries and alternator.

Doing that, or a resedental 120 volt fridge, will only need a 1000 watt inverter. Preferably a Pure Sine Wave model.

Yeah. Have the gas electric one. Not residential.
I really just.want the fridge to be cold while driving. I'm doing 8 hour drives and the fridge is warm when I arrive. Even with ice packs. No good. Claims to our lose 4 degrees an hour. Well after 8 I'm at 60+

Will not drive with propane on.

[Bobbafett]

Piggy back on this thread.

Can I run a small inverter just for my sound bar.
I want that for driving. Not the car stereo.

It's maybe 60 watt draw. I was thinking of the small ones you plug into the outlet. But I'd rather get a 100 watt puresine wave for this

In have 12v where my outlet is. It was for the TV booster. But I'm not using that. So I have an on off switch for a small inverter.

[twinboat]

Then install a 1000 watt inverter. That will run the 500 watt fridge and the 50 watt sound bar.

Keep the 12 volt cables short and run an extension cord to the back of fridge.

When you get to your spot, turn on the very safe propane system and pull the plug for the fridge and plug it in to the regular outlet.

I drive with my propane on AND even sleep with it on.

[WagonMaster]

I put the fridge on "Auto" and just went with it. Never a problem. The problem was the Norcold fridge.....got rid of it.

[twinboat]

Originally Posted by twinboat

Then install a 1000 watt inverter. That will run the 500 watt fridge and the 50 watt sound bar.

Keep the 12 volt cables short and run an extension cord to the back of fridge.

When you get to your spot, turn on the very safe propane system and pull the plug for the fridge and plug it in to the regular outlet.

I drive with my propane on AND even sleep with it on.

Re-read your post. Here is a suggested transfer switch that can be wired just before the fridge outlet to make it switch automaticly. The plug end goes into the inverter outlet. You can still use an extension between the inverter and transfer switch.