Fridge not cooling on LP

Geno_86ed · 06-23-2010, 02:35 PM

OK, I have a mid 90s Jayco that was purchased used as part of buying out an estate. Trailer was only towed about 500 miles and then parked on a ranch. The fridge works great while plugged into an AC supply, but only gets cool on gas. I have spent much time trying to diagnose the problem.

It is a Norcold 452 and the first thing I did was get the recall taken care of. The repair person said "it works great, I tested it." Well it worked because he plugged it into an AC supply. It does not get cold on gas.

The second thing I did was clean the burner and the orifice for the LP and cleaned the vent on top of the camper. Also I turned the frdige upside down. Still did not get cold.

Then I cleaned the three small flues above the burner, the ones that are about 3 inches wide, 1/2 inch thick, and 12 inches long that surround the pipe that gets hot and is surrounded by insulation. I also recleaned the burner and orifice and the fins on the back of the fridge. Still does not get cold.

Moved the capilary tube all the way to the right most fin and up all the way, did not get cold. Pulled the capilary all the way off the fins, still not cold. The coldest the fridge gets is 48 degrees, and the freezer get to about 20 with the fridge turned all the way up to 5. There is no amonia smell or yellow residue on the cooling components.

I am beating my head against a wall right now. I have read all over this forum and the internet and cannot figure this out. I hope someone has an idea to help fix this problem.

Thank you
Geno

**RV Wizard** · 06-24-2010, 03:03 AM

Since the refrigerator does cool properly on electric we know that the cooling unit itself is good. The problem is not having the correct BTU of heat applied to the boiler of the cooling unit when operated on LP gas mode. You should check the operating LP gas pressure under load. It should be 11" water column in the main gas line. If it is low (and it sounds like it is) you could greatly effect the operation of the refrigerator. If the LP gas regulator cannot be adjusted to this pressure then replace it. The water heater, stove top and furnace may not show this problem, but I have found it to be so with the small burner on cooling units.

Geno_86ed · 06-24-2010, 07:19 AM

Are there special gauges that I need to purchase, or is there a generic gauge that I can purchase? Don't really want to load up and tow the trailer to the RV shop if I can test it myself.

**RV Wizard** · 06-25-2010, 03:21 AM

You can make a "U" tube manometer that will be very accurate. This will give you the idea as to how to make one and how to adjust regulator. RV U Tube Manometer

Geno_86ed · 06-25-2010, 12:28 PM

Made the manometer and set the running pressure to 11" w.c. I was hoping the pressure was going to be lower, but was a little under 10" before I adjusted it.

Now just waiting to check it after running overnight.

Thanks for the help.

Geno_86ed · 06-25-2010, 04:20 PM

Running for 18 hours and the freezer is barely 20 degrees and the fridge is barely 58 degrees. Now I am officially stumped.

Are there different orifice sizes for different elevations? I am at 6300 ft and camp at around 8000 ft.

**RV Wizard** · 06-26-2010, 03:14 AM

Ah, you did not mention the elevation issue!!! You will not perform well up there on LP gas mode. Use electric mode and you will be ok.

JC2 · 06-26-2010, 12:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RV Wizard

Ah, you did not mention the elevation issue!!! You will not perform well up there on LP gas mode. Use electric mode and you will be ok.

Hey Mike:

This years national rally will be in July at Williams,AZ which I believe is around 5-6000 feet elevation. Would your recommendation then be to run the fridge and possibly the water heater on electric at this height instead of LP?

If so, this would be of interest to all members that will be attending.

I wonder if this elevation would also have an affect on LP kitchen stoves.

Geno_86ed · 06-26-2010, 09:23 PM

I would gladly plug in, if we weren't over 60 miles from the nearest utilities.

I know plenty of people who have fridges running on LP at these elevations and higher. I would suggest trying to run on LP at the rally, shouldn't be a problem.

**RV Wizard** · 06-27-2010, 03:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JC2

Hey Mike:

This years national rally will be in July at Williams,AZ which I believe is around 5-6000 feet elevation. Would your recommendation then be to run the fridge and possibly the water heater on electric at this height instead of LP?

If so, this would be of interest to all members that will be attending.

I wonder if this elevation would also have an affect on LP kitchen stoves.

I have parked at the campground in Williams but did not use LP for ref. I don't think it would be too much of an issue if LP pressure is at 11" WC. at their altitude. The other LP appliances will not be as much effected by altitude as the smaller burner of the refrigerator with the exception of oven pilots. They may or may not stay lit.

JC2 · 06-27-2010, 08:23 AM

My thanks to RVWizard and Geno_86ed for their replies. I will now respectfully return this thread back to the OP.

JC2 · 08-15-2010, 05:57 PM

As kind of a followup to my earlier question on running the fridge on pl at the national rally in Williams, I switched the fridge to pl one night and it apparrently didn't light the 7000 +- altitude as it alarmed about 3:30am and showed no flame code. tested it again in Zion NP and got the same code. Once I got down to less than 4000 ft elevation, lp mode works like a charm. I know you can adjust the wh when in gas mode but is there a similiar adjustment for the fridge?

**"007"** · 08-15-2010, 06:02 PM

There is a slide on burner tube that you can open for more air but will have to place back when at lower elevations. Mark tube with marking pen before moving.