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Old 09-11-2014, 09:08 PM   #15
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Joe,

Read through this short thread regarding rooftop fans.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/holy-...ck-169401.html

It includes what I did back in 2010 for rooftop fans and by 2011 I was running those fans 24/7/365. Finally in 2012 I gave up and now enjoy a very cold fridge and extremely cold freezer of a residential Samsung.

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Old 09-11-2014, 09:18 PM   #16
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Joe,

Read through this short thread regarding rooftop fans.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/holy-...ck-169401.html

It includes what I did back in 2010 for rooftop fans and by 2011 I was running those fans 24/7/365. Finally in 2012 I gave up and now enjoy a very cold fridge and extremely cold freezer of a residential Samsung.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
That will be one of the next mods, except they don't make a Samsung that will fit in the space we have so it'll probably be a Haier unit.
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Old 09-11-2014, 09:35 PM   #17
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That will be one of the next mods, except they don't make a Samsung that will fit in the space we have so it'll probably be a Haier unit.

The Samsung is the same width but taller. I had to lower the original floor under the refrigerator about four inches for the Samsung. I had a radio speaker, a propane alert sensor/monitor and a 12 volt control panel under the refrigerator floor. The only part that was a space issue was the speaker as it was about 6 inches tall. I have left that speaker undone and on the next trip will see if we miss that speaker sound. I don't remember reading anywhere that the rear of the Samsung is about an inch lower than the front of the Samsung. The front top of the Samsung has hinges that are higher than the back which might make a difference with an angled roof.
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Old 09-13-2014, 08:23 AM   #18
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Joe,

Read through this short thread regarding rooftop fans.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/holy-...ck-169401.html

It includes what I did back in 2010 for rooftop fans and by 2011 I was running those fans 24/7/365. Finally in 2012 I gave up and now enjoy a very cold fridge and extremely cold freezer of a residential Samsung.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
Richard, how did you get the RF197 into the MH?
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Old 09-13-2014, 08:41 AM   #19
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Through the passenger side salon window. They removed the window valance first, Day/Night Shade and then the inside window frame which allows the outside window to pop out. Once they started it took less than one hour to get the NotSoCold out and the Samsung in and then re-installing the window and valance.

The shop used a forklift but others with friends have used a pickup and lots of hands if you are doing it yourself.

See photo documentary attached.

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Attached Files
File Type: pdf Samsung RF197ACBP.pdf (2.55 MB, 188 views)
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Old 09-14-2014, 07:33 AM   #20
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Through the passenger side salon window. They removed the window valance first, Day/Night Shade and then the inside window frame which allows the outside window to pop out. Once they started it took less than one hour to get the NotSoCold out and the Samsung in and then re-installing the window and valance.

The shop used a forklift but others with friends have used a pickup and lots of hands if you are doing it yourself.

See photo documentary attached.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
Thanks for the pics Richard! Do you mind sharing what they charged to install the fridge, and what your total cost was?
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Old 09-14-2014, 07:52 AM   #21
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I ordered the fridge myself from Warehouse Discount Center in Burbank CA and had it delivered to the RV shop, no tax, free delivery. I paid about $1150 for the fridge. The shop labor rate was higher than normal, $130 per hour and in Louisiana they can charge tax on the labor which I didn't realize so my total is a lot higher than most other places. I believe the labor was about $1600, total $2750.

A friend of mine had the same thing done at the same time at a shop called Iron Horse RV in San Antonio TX. His labor was about $800.

I chose this shop due to my travel schedule which was from Florida to Alaska. I had other shops on my list but this one was the most convenient for me. If I had traveled to San Antonio I would have spent the savings in fuel plus it was way out of my way for my chosen route to Alaska.

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Old 09-15-2014, 08:59 AM   #22
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Thanks Richard! If the fans don't do the job we're gonna have to look at other options!
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Old 09-18-2014, 12:13 PM   #23
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I'm still having trouble getting my Norcold 1200LRIM to stay as cold as we want when the outside temp is above 90. I think the answer is to put exhaust fans right under the cover on the roof. What have you guys used for this? I'm looking at the one below.

Coolerguys Triple 120mm Bracket Kit with Fan
Joe;

Just sent you a PM.
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Old 09-19-2014, 08:18 PM   #24
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These mods worked for several of us.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/seeki...ce-200712.html
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Old 09-21-2014, 12:50 PM   #25
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Got 'er done!

Yesterday I did the installation of the fans at the top of the vent opening.

One of the members here sent me a PM about installing fans at the top. He found that with the plastic top cap the air from the fans was being deflected back down in the opening so they weren't doing much good. I had already decided to seal the space around the fans, and his experience confirmed that I was on the right track.

This is what the fans looked like after I assembled them:




The mounting plate was 17.7" long and 6.25" wide. The width was OK but I had to add metal extensions on each end to fully cover the opening. I got a strip of thin aluminum at Lowes and made small "L" brackets to attach the assembly to the outside of the opening. Below is what it looked like after this was done:




I placed the mounting brackets to overlap the opening frame on the outside, then attached them to the plastic frame with 1/2" metal screws. You have to keep the screws short in the middle or they will go in too far and hit the fan blades! I installed 1" weatherstrip all the way around the bottom of the plate to get an airtight seal. After the assembly was screwed down in place, I used white silicone caulk to seal the cracks around the cover mounting holes to complete the airtight installation. Now the air being exhausted by the fans will be forced out the vents in the cover, NOT deflected back down into the opening!

I bought a KSD9700 30C thermal switch from David Force at RV Cooling Unit Warehouse. This switch senses the ambient temperature at the top of the fridge coils and turns the fans on at 30 degrees C (86 degrees F).
I wired the fans directly to the 12VDC power going to the control board.

Below is what it looked like before putting the cover back on (before I put the caulk around the mounting holes):


I will be testing this over the next day or so and give you a report. Wish me luck!
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Old 09-21-2014, 02:12 PM   #26
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Joe,

That's a great installation, good job well done!

That fan package is a nice compact package sized exactly right for the opening.

If they would have had that package available back in 2010, I would have purchased it instead of making the one I did.

I sure hope it helps with removing the heat from the rear and improves the cooling of the fridge.

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Old 09-21-2014, 05:43 PM   #27
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Friend stopped by and I asked him about fans inside the fridge and he says wouldn't Norcold or Dometic or whoever put them there if the fridge needs it. Interesting. Any thoughts. Remember I said "inside the fridge"
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Old 09-22-2014, 05:27 AM   #28
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Friend stopped by and I asked him about fans inside the fridge and he says wouldn't Norcold or Dometic or whoever put them there if the fridge needs it. Interesting. Any thoughts. Remember I said "inside the fridge"

Mike, I think it's just that they didn't want to spend the few dollars it would take to do it! It makes sense to me that if the cold-producing area (the fins) is at the top, then the temp there is gonna be colder that at the bottom. Yes, I know that cold air drops, but I think it can use a little help!

I just installed the FridgeFix fan bar in my fridge and haven't taken the time yet to check the temps at different levels, but I'm confident it will distribute the cold air more evenly!
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