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gas regulator
Old 11-30-2010, 10:46 PM   #1
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I'm thinking I have a gas regulator problem. Oven does not have the robust flame it used to have. Stove flame is low also. Furnace won't stay fired. Also if oven is on and I light the stove burner or any other gas item oven shuts down. Any idea's.

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Old 11-30-2010, 11:02 PM   #2
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Sounds to me (after 20 years in the propane business) like you diagnosed it correctly. Just replace it............they're not expensive.

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Old 11-30-2010, 11:14 PM   #3
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thanks Kix . that was where I was going.
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Old 11-30-2010, 11:18 PM   #4
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When you get your new regulator installed it will need to be adjusted to 11" w.c. (water column) using a manometer. When doing this adjustment make sure you are operating the furnace and a couple of the top stove burners. By doing the adjustment in this manner it will properly regulate the pressure under most all conditions. If you don't have a water column manometer you can make one pretty easily. Holler if you need instructions. good luck
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Old 11-30-2010, 11:30 PM   #5
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KIX I was doing a little research the other day on the difference between propane, butane and LPG.
From what I recall they said propane and butane are similar and that for different temperature situations they will vary how they formulate the product.
So could it be possible to buy propane in the hot summer months and then have problems with it in the cold winter months?
I live in California where 105 is common but seldom gets below freezing. We are headed cross country in January and Feburary. Is it possible I could see problems with my locally purchased propane?
And if so, could that be part of coarsairIIAT's problem?
Thanks for the help.
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Old 11-30-2010, 11:45 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arch Hoagland View Post
KIX I was doing a little research the other day on the difference between propane, butane and LPG.
From what I recall they said propane and butane are similar and that for different temperature situations they will vary how they formulate the product.
For some years now all propane in the lower 48 states has been formulated to HD5 specs. for commercial use. Years ago the formulation for commercial propane was changed regionally to meet differing temps. But no longer is that done. See note below.
So could it be possible to buy propane in the hot summer months and then have problems with it in the cold winter months? It's possible but not likely. HD5 propane BOILS at -44* F. So if you are using propane at extremely cold temps there possibly could be a vaporization problem.
I live in California where 105 is common but seldom gets below freezing. We are headed cross country in January and Feburary. Is it possible I could see problems with my locally purchased propane? If your route takes you near the North Pole then you could experience problems (LOL)
And if so, could that be part of coarsairIIAT's problem? Corsairs likely problem is the regulator seat and diaphragm assembly. There is a spring inside the regulator pushing back against the propane pressure. Attached to the diaphragm is a lever that controls the seat. It's "possilbe" to disassemble the regulator and rebuild the lever arm, spring assembly and replace the seat. It's not advisable unless you have the equipment, knowledge and ability to test your work. Regulators are inexpensive.
Thanks for the help.
Hope this answered your questions.


The reason HD5 formulation was adopted as a standard is basically propane is delivered via pipelines and railcars. It became very difficult in past years to have differing formulations for different wholesalers. Several wholesalers may all have propane in the same pipeline with no practical way to reformulate until the pipe is cleaned, product reformulated and pipeline restated. There are some very large industrial propane users that may require a special formulation. But all you and I can buy is HD5 all adross te country.
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Old 12-01-2010, 01:56 AM   #7
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Whats the temp there Corsair? Could be a icing problem..
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Old 12-01-2010, 11:41 AM   #8
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KIX ....thanks for the info. Taking 10 across so won't get too near the north pole!!!
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Old 12-01-2010, 07:40 PM   #9
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Thanks all for your input. I will replace the regulator this weekend and let you know how it went. One thing is my 2 previous rigs never had a regulator problem. One a 1975 I bought in 99. And full timed in for a year. Next one was a 1985 I fulltimed in for 4 years. And both were probably original to the rigs. My present rig is a 2007. And fulltimed in it for 3 1/2 years and it goes bad. Go Figure.
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Old 12-01-2010, 10:57 PM   #10
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First one was prolly made in the USA, second in Mexico, third in China...
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Old 12-02-2010, 10:16 PM   #11
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I still think I still have a regulator issue. But today filled a tank that wouldn't run the furnace . It normally takes 7 gallons to fill. It took 6.1 gallons. Now running on full 7 gallon tank furnace is working but oven still doesn't have robust flame. So I think when tank runs down its just not enough preasure. Will find out when I fill the 25 gallon tank. Just can't find out until I go to other house. Noone local has adaptor to fill that tank. But suspect I will still have a gallon or so in it. The rv store where I'm at has a 2 tank regulator for 45.00. The Other local rv store has one like the one I have that is 50.00. I like the one I have that indicates the selected tank is empty.
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Old 12-03-2010, 02:07 PM   #12
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New LP regulators should already be calibrated to 11 w.c.inches of pressure. That's the standard for all propane appliances, not just RVs. I'm not saying a factory never shipped one with an incorrect setting, but you ought to be able to buy a new regulator and install it without finding someone with a manometer to calibrate it.
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Old 12-03-2010, 07:47 PM   #13
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Thanks Gary
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Old 12-03-2010, 08:14 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary RVRoamer View Post
New LP regulators should already be calibrated to 11 w.c.inches of pressure. That's the standard for all propane appliances, not just RVs. I'm not saying a factory never shipped one with an incorrect setting, but you ought to be able to buy a new regulator and install it without finding someone with a manometer to calibrate it.
A regulator manufacturer has no idea how many BTU's you're going to ask the reg. to supply. And that's why it should be adjusted to 11" w.c. on YOUR system when 75% of the max. BTU load is operating. If out-of-the-box it's adjusted to 11" w.c. on YOUR system then you can consider yourself just plain lucky.

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