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02-27-2014, 03:34 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 8
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Generator Fault Code 32
I have an Onan 5500 (HGJAB-6755D) that won't start. I get a fault code of 32 which is a 'low cranking speed sense'. Anyone have an ideas of what I need to do to get the engine to start and stay running?
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02-27-2014, 05:03 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Yuma Arizona USA
Posts: 2,994
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1. Remove clean and tighten both the positive and negative battery cables at both ends.
2. Have your batteries load tested and make sure they are fully charged
Will it run if you keep the start button depressed? If so you have a controller issue.
__________________
Brian, Loretta & Lucy (Golden Retriever)
2008 HR Endeavor 40 PDQ , ISL 400
2010 Dodge Ram 1500 Toad
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02-27-2014, 05:13 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 8
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The battery connections are tight and clean. The batteries (two 6V) are fully charged and less than a year old. It will not run with the start button depressed.
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06-27-2014, 08:19 AM
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#5
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Registered User
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 949
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Code 32 Onan from Hell
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave78Chief
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I own the Linda Blair of generators. It has thrown every code in the book at me; I had finally "fixed" it with new controller board ($700), a new fuel pump ($100), all new fluids and filters.
We got four hours of error-free operation; until, when the neighborhood blacked out during a storm, I made coffee in the RV, the bay door manually opened, generator extended in light rain.
Two hours into churning along with one AC running, my wife turned on her hair dryer and <pffft!>
"Linda" has not run since.
Now, she spews a continuous Code 32 in lieu of pea soup. I've run the entire factory checklist, verifying among other things that the K1, K2, K3 relays are fine. K2-86 to Gnd showed a discontinuity, so I ran new cable through the harness for that. I've dental-picked all the P1 connector pins, etched them and sprayed with dielectric grease to ensure positive contact.
If the start switch is held down, it runs for the fabled 13 second check and then shuts down with a Code 32.
The only item that remains is the starter solenoid, and I'm getting ready to pull it for a bench check and possible replacement.
Ideas? Experiences?
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06-27-2014, 10:59 AM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 8
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The problem with mine was stuck brushes so you'll need to remove the brush holder and check to make sure the brushes aren't stuck or burnt. You should also take a look at the slip rings to see if they are dirty (they should look shiny). If they are dirty, use long needle nose pliers to hold an emery cloth up against them. Hit the start button a few times so the rotor spins. If you need a new brush holder, the P/N is PG212-1303.
Hope this helps.
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06-28-2014, 06:17 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 949
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Brushes and Slip Rings
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjbarr99
The problem with mine was stuck brushes so you'll need to remove the brush holder and check to make sure the brushes aren't stuck or burnt. You should also take a look at the slip rings to see if they are dirty (they should look shiny). If they are dirty, use long needle nose pliers to hold an emery cloth up against them. Hit the start button a few times so the rotor spins. If you need a new brush holder, the P/N is PG212-1303.
Hope this helps.
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Thanks, MJ. Valuable stuff for those who read this later. I pulled mine early in the game, checked the length remaining and that they slid in and out easily. Lots of people have cured their woes by buffing the rings.
I'll attach a great article on this by Jim Latour. It refers to smaller models, but the same techniques apply to the 10K ones.
Cleaning Generator Slip Rings and Brushes – Part 19
May 16, 2008 by Jim Latour
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RV.Net Blog Admin
The majority of modern RV generators utilize slip rings and carbon/graphite brushes to transmit magnetizing power to the generator rotor coils. This current/voltage signal comes from the control circuit during starting and the voltage regulator during operation.
A characteristic of this setup is that, under light or intermittent loading conditions, the brush material is deposited on the slip rings and moisture changes it chemically, forming an insulating layer on the two slip rings. This layer requires the regulator to work harder and use more power to “punch” through this high resistance layer to magnetize the rotor and maintain the 120 volt generator output.
The layer can build up to such a level that the field flash circuit can’t get through it and it may overload the voltage regulator to the point of burnout of its power circuit. The brush material can also cause the brushes to stick in their holder and stop electrical flow to the rotor.
SO – what can we do to fix this condition?
Run the generator at least 50% of full load – 80% is better. Run it at least 4 or more hours at this load level.
Periodically take resistance readings and clean the brushes and slip rings if necessary. Tools needed are a multi meter, Service Manual, ¼” drive socket set with 5/16, 3/8, and 7/16 sockets as a minimum. Socket or Torx screwdrivers, electrical tape. Ring cleaning material such as: a. Commutator stones, coarse and fine and a short piece of rubber heater hose to hold stones. b. small piece of wood and a “Scotch Brite” pad.
The following procedure is for the ONAN BGE, NHE, BGM and NHM series RV generator sets but with slight modification, can be used on other units.
Uncover the brush rigging.
1. Remove the air filter cover and filter.
2. Remove metal or plastic cover over brushes at upper rear of generator case behind air filter.
3. Mark the top wire on the brush block (holder) with a magic marker and mark the top of the brush block the same way.
4. Remove both wires and tape separately to insulate them from each other and the metal parts of the genset.
5. Measure the resistance from one brush terminal to the other with the multi meter and compare the reading with the “rotor ohms” spec in the service manual.
6. Example: On ONAN spec ‘D’ and later, the reading should be between 20 and 26.5 ohms. Any less and you have a rotor problem $$$$. Any higher and you need to clean the slip rings and brushes. Read the service manual to be sure.
7. Remove the brush block with the brushes in it. Lay aside for now.
8. Look at the rings on the rotor. They should be a light chocolate brown in the center and a copper/brass color on each edge. If a dark brown/black streaked mottled color, clean as follows.
9a. Wrap a piece of “Scotch Brite” around a small piece of wood (popsicle stick, part of a paint stirrer, etc.) and secure it with a rubber band.
9b. Press a commutator stone into a piece of heater hose.
10. Read step 4 again. The two wires will have 12 volts on them during the cleaning step.
11. Press and hold the start switch, the engine should run. If you let go of the switch the engine will stop.
12. With the engine running, push the “Scotch Brite” or stone against the slip rings until they are a bright shiny copper/brass color. If using stones, finish with the ‘Fine’ stone.
13. Stop the engine and use the “Scotch Brite” or stone to ‘rough up’ the bottom surface of each brush. Don’t change the curved shape, just rough up the shiny surface a little.
14. Check the brushes for freedom of movement in the block and compare brush length to the manual specification.
15. Reassemble the brush block in the generator – Magic Marker mark to the top. The block will break if installed upside down.
16. Recheck ohms with the multi meter and record the reading for use next year.
17. Reconnect brush wiring, install cover and air filter assembly.
18. Bow three times in the direction of Fridley, MN (ONAN Hq) and hit the start button. It should keep running. If not, you probably need a regulator.
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07-26-2014, 11:06 AM
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#8
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Registered User
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 949
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Update, Surprise
Quote:
Originally Posted by RVNeophytes2
Thanks, MJ. Valuable stuff for those who read this later. I pulled mine early in the game, checked the length remaining and that they slid in and out easily. Lots of people have cured their woes by buffing the rings.
I'll attach a great article on this by Jim Latour. It refers to smaller models, but the same techniques apply to the 10K ones....
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On a whim, I put in the old controller board, and "Linda" happily started up and ran!
But, Silverleaf reported a Surge Fault, showed Reverse Polarity and a 184V spike in its history. At the generator it showed a consistent 120V and 60 Cycles. But, none of that was getting to the rig, even when shore power was unplugged.
I traced the power, and it was good all the way to the contactor inside the Surgeguard unit.
The tech support guy at Surgeguard's manufacturer suggested trading the wires at the input side, switching shore power to generator and vice versa.
WARNING Advanced operation that may result in terrible things if you don't know basic electrical safety.
Well, wouldn't you know that the bus systems powered right up, and did fine until the first AC unit switched off due to reaching the commanded cabin temp set at the thermostat. As happened six months ago, the generator's fuel supply was turned off, and it stopped running. So, back to Square One.
Sure enough, the Surgeguard unit was damaged, the generator contactor fried.
And, then it dawned...
- Lightning and thunder
- Shore power line attached while running the generator
- Mid-cabin AC operating at time of failure, later found to be fried
- Surgeguard damaged
- New Onan controller board toasted
- Surge protectors in house next to bus bay tripped
I contacted my insurance, Blue Sky, and filed a claim. Cummins Onan has since replaced the board and completely tested the generator. Camping World is slated to install a new Surgeguard unit next week. As a precaution, I'm keeping the generator breaker open, using shore power. My reasoning: if in the process of tripping offline, the contactors "double dose" the rig with both legs of shore power combined, I don't want to fry my third controller board. Those ring in at $700.
My Onan technician friend is nervous about this resolution: he reasons that a complete replacement of everything forward of the motor is needed, since unknown damage may exist. There is a 90-day warranty period, and you can bet I'll use the generator copiously during that time, to make sure our damage is limited to that I've found.
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08-25-2020, 09:49 AM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Sausalito, CA
Posts: 9
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I had the same error 32 with a QuietDiesel 12.5KW.
The issue ended up being the small 12V relay for the starter.
There are three small automotive style Tyco relays which are controlled by the ECU. One of them supplies current to the Onan starter solenoid. It was intermittent so I replaced it. The starter was not getting any voltage to the solenoid so it wouldn't turn the starter. This triggered the 'low start RPM' error 32 on the ECU. Starter itself was perfect.
The design is not very good as these Tyco relays will 'relax' when engine is starting and volts can be 10 or less. This probably causes arcing inside the relay and leads to their premature death. Its quite normal for volts to sag when starting a diesel engine (with glowplugs!) so the use of 12V relays which require >12V to work correctly is not a great design.
The error is often confused with low battery or other issues as when main engine is running and start batteries are up to ~14V the Tyco would often pop back to life and the Onan would start. Now with more volts, the Tyco solenoid had enough volts through its own tiny solenoid to make contact.
The fix is to find another automotive solenoid that can operate OK at 8-12V so that it stays on during the start cycle. I havent found one yet but will advise when I do. Meantime, just replace the Tyco's and your problems should be solved.
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