Go Back   iRV2 Forums > RV SYSTEMS AND TECHNOLOGIES FORUMS > RV Systems & Appliances
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 10-22-2017, 02:31 PM   #1
Junior Member
 
billgallivan's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: north texas
Posts: 27
help ,can't remove the water heater drain plug

as in title,,have been soaking regularly in penetrating oil,,but cant break loose. afraid of damaging tank. has anyone applied heat to the pipe plug
__________________

__________________
Bill Gallivan
98 itasca 30wq
billgallivan is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 10-22-2017, 02:33 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Mr_D's Avatar
 
Solo Rvers Club
iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 28,118
What brand WH? I hope it isn't one that needs a nylon plug and someone used a steel/iron one. If that's the case then you may end up replacing the whole WH.
__________________

__________________
2009 45' Magna 630 w/Cummins ISX 650 HP/1950 Lbs Ft
Charter Good Sam Lifetime Member, FMCA, SKP
RV'ing since 1957, NRA Benefactor Life, towing '14 CR-V
Mr_D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2017, 03:07 PM   #3
Junior Member
 
billgallivan's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: north texas
Posts: 27
I have every book in the world except one on the water heater
model gh6 8e
Click image for larger version

Name:	1508702830677.jpg
Views:	146
Size:	264.4 KB
ID:	180668
__________________
Bill Gallivan
98 itasca 30wq
billgallivan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2017, 03:22 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Mr_D's Avatar
 
Solo Rvers Club
iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 28,118
Well, by looking at the picture I can see that you have the wrong plug. That's a common pipe plug and you probably have a Suburban WH. Suburban WH's REQUIRE a nylon plug, using a steel/iron one causes electrolysis and the plug welds itself in. Usually the whole fitting comes out of the tank and you end up replacing the whole unit.
__________________
2009 45' Magna 630 w/Cummins ISX 650 HP/1950 Lbs Ft
Charter Good Sam Lifetime Member, FMCA, SKP
RV'ing since 1957, NRA Benefactor Life, towing '14 CR-V
Mr_D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2017, 03:31 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 9,561
Have you tried a square socket, extension and breaker bar ?

Try some steady twisting. If it don't move, turn on the water heater, until its hot, and try again.
__________________
twinboat is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2017, 03:32 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Lowell, Arkansas
Posts: 4,642
If what Mr D says is correct (and he knows a thing or two about this stuff) You might try an air impact. I didn't say to get a 3/4" BIG MAMA one just a 3/8 D or a 1/2" D with the force turned down to the least impact.

The idea is to impact the frozen plug to maybe break/shake the corrosion around the threads. Start with low air pressure and do it in both directions gently for just a few seconds. What have you got to lose since you may have to replace the entire tank anyway.

I've done this before with some success so it's worth a try!!!

Yes you can get 8-point sockets for a square head fitting both in 1/2" and 3/8" drive.
__________________
TeJay Auto Instructor/4-yrs USAF/ Liz: RN/ WBGO 2014 Vista 30T/ F-53/CHF/5-Star/Koni * Bella & Izzy * Golden /Cocker mix/ Louie The Cat* All Retired
TeJay is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2017, 03:41 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
John Haggard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Wolf Creek dam area, Ky. Cardinal Center Camp Ground, Marengo Oh. or on the road.
Posts: 137
Last resort

Mix muriatic acid and transmission fluid 50-50

Keep soaking the threads

Hope this keeps you from buying and installing a new WH.
__________________
John Haggard is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2017, 03:48 PM   #8
Junior Member
 
billgallivan's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: north texas
Posts: 27
what about antifreeze,,?
and not draining?
i have tried to remove it with the heater on,, no avail,,
contemplating drilling 21/64 and tapping 1/8 27 ipt.
__________________
Bill Gallivan
98 itasca 30wq
billgallivan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2017, 03:49 PM   #9
Junior Member
 
billgallivan's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: north texas
Posts: 27
will try low pressure impact
__________________
Bill Gallivan
98 itasca 30wq
billgallivan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2017, 03:49 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
dennis45's Avatar


 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: BC
Posts: 6,365
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_D View Post
Well, by looking at the picture I can see that you have the wrong plug. That's a common pipe plug and you probably have a Suburban WH. Suburban WH's REQUIRE a nylon plug, using a steel/iron one causes electrolysis and the plug welds itself in. Usually the whole fitting comes out of the tank and you end up replacing the whole unit.
Suburban heaters use an Anode Rod. The Atwood heater uses a Plastic Plug, no Anode.
Either way, it's the wrong plug. You need to beg, borrow, steal or most likely Buy a 1/2" Drive 8 Point Socket. From the looks, you will require a 1/2" X 1/2" drive 8 point.

Then when you get the plug out you should use a 1/2" NPT Thread Tap to clean up the threads before replacing the new Anode Rod or Plastic Plug depending on which heater this is.
My guess looking at the photo it's an Atwood thus requiring a Plastic 1/2" NPT Plug available at most RV Parts stores.
__________________
Dennis & Carol
2003, 4006, 41' DutchStar, Spartan, ISC 8.3L W/BanksPower - 2013 Honda CRV, BlueOx Baseplate, Aventa Bar & Patriot Brake. And the 04 Bird, Sunshine Car.
dennis45 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2017, 03:53 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 209
I have the same water heater. It should have a nylon plug. Try rocking the plug by tightening then loosening it. An impact would help . I wouldn't use a torch to apply heat as the insulation on the inside may catch fire. The last option is to drill out the plug and retap it for a smaller 3/8 pipe plug.
__________________
1993 Tiffin Allegro Bay 32'
Soppy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2017, 04:05 PM   #12
Senior Member


 
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 2,350
That's an Atwood water heater. It has an aluminum tank. You should always use an Atwood nylon plug in an Atwood heater.

I have found it helpful to remove the sheet-metal chimney. It's held on with two screws, one upper-right and one lower-left. Removing it allows you to get a decent-sized crescent wrench on the plug.

If you do remove the chimney, remember to reinstall the ground wire under the upper screw.

If you do succeed in removing the steel plug, use a brass plug to dress the threads in the drain outlet before trying to insert a nylon drain plug.
__________________
Mark
2008 Holiday Rambler Admiral 30PDD (Ford F-53 chassis)
2009 Honda Fit Sport
l1v3fr33ord1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2017, 04:19 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 2,209
I would either leave it and run pink stuff through it or try and drill it out
__________________
1998 Tioga Class C
400 amp/hrs solar, Trimetric
Retire 2020 GLW
okcnewbie is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2017, 05:01 PM   #14
Junior Member
 
billgallivan's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: north texas
Posts: 27
Thanks for all the ideas, I will post after I get an 8-point 9/16 socket, thank you
__________________

__________________
Bill Gallivan
98 itasca 30wq
billgallivan is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
heat, heater, water, water heater



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Can't remove oil drain plug Mcquaid Cummins Engines 17 03-07-2017 03:48 PM
Can we go yet, Can we go yet, Can we go yet, Can we go yet, Can we go yet mothgrey Class A Motorhome Discussions 9 11-18-2013 05:51 PM
What size wrench to remove oil drain plug, 2003 8.1 ? RVDriver Workhorse and Chevrolet Chassis Motorhome Forum 9 11-28-2008 01:33 PM
Help, 1/2 of drain plug stuck in hot water heater rvcarpenter Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 9 05-25-2007 07:44 AM
Help, 1/2 of drain plug stuck in hot water heater RV Systems & Appliances 9 12-31-1969 07:00 PM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:50 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.