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07-13-2016, 08:12 AM
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#15
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New to the RV World
Vintage RV Owners Club American Coach Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 3,092
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harleyjt
I would dump and add half or more fresh water and then add the detergent and soda for the trip home. That would also give you a better idea of what you might have cleaned up when you dump after the trip home assuming you have a clear section on you sewer line somewhere.
Also not sure I would let it set for a couple days. Drain it out as soon as you can after the trip. That way nothing has the opportunity to cling to the sides or bottom. Just like changing you oil when it's warm. Jmho.
jt
2005 Newmar Kountry Star gas 3742, Workhorse 8.1L w/Allison 5 speed.
Sent from my iPhone using iRV2 - RV Forum
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There is no place to dump at the track, and I will dump the following morning when we return (will arrive home late)
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07-13-2016, 05:19 PM
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#16
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In the ether...
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Michigan, NE of Hell
Posts: 449
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Yeah, RV Digest It is bacteria based. That is the point.
Scott
__________________
2003 Winnebago Adventurer 35U, 8.1 W-22, TruCenter
Fly R/C Helicopters
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07-13-2016, 06:16 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Nor'easters Club
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 341
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I've had good luck with the Horst probes, Horst Mircacle Probes - Get accurate reading on your RV's holding tanks . I've been using them for 6 years without any problems and the level accuracy is correct. I was able to use the existing holes. Others have drilled new holes to install them into.
__________________
Bob Flight, Rochester, NY- '02 Travel Supreme
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07-14-2016, 02:33 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 1,846
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There are two big problems in RV's. Water leaks and tank sensors that don't work. Both could be solved by the manufacturers but for some reason, money, they refuse to. Preventing water leaks is not rocket science, how many of you have leaks in your roof and your walls are crumbling from rot? Poor engineering and poor construction practices account for our problem with leaks.
Now on to tank sensors. Anyone who would put sensors inside a tank has no idea what they are doing. Is it really hard to figure out that sensors will not read properly when covered with gunk? The cure to the problem is not some magic chemicals or ice cubes or triple flushing. While these practices will help to clean the tank they are not a cure. The solution is a product by See Level. This product is well proven in the commercial world. Trust me they don't use internal sensors. They have exterior sensors that read through the tank. Not a big deal to install except that you have to get to the sides of your tanks. The same wiring can be used and your problems will be solved.
Why the companies don't use this proven system is beyond me. I'm sure I has to do with money and the extra time it takes to install. Probably would take another 20 minutes and cost $150. No big deal.
We get the products we push for.
Solve the problem don't just keep useing bandaids.
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07-14-2016, 09:38 PM
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#19
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New to the RV World
Vintage RV Owners Club American Coach Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 3,092
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 09 harley
There are two big problems in RV's. Water leaks and tank sensors that don't work. Both could be solved by the manufacturers but for some reason, money, they refuse to. Preventing water leaks is not rocket science, how many of you have leaks in your roof and your walls are crumbling from rot? Poor engineering and poor construction practices account for our problem with leaks.
Now on to tank sensors. Anyone who would put sensors inside a tank has no idea what they are doing. Is it really hard to figure out that sensors will not read properly when covered with gunk? The cure to the problem is not some magic chemicals or ice cubes or triple flushing. While these practices will help to clean the tank they are not a cure. The solution is a product by See Level. This product is well proven in the commercial world. Trust me they don't use internal sensors. They have exterior sensors that read through the tank. Not a big deal to install except that you have to get to the sides of your tanks. The same wiring can be used and your problems will be solved.
Why the companies don't use this proven system is beyond me. I'm sure I has to do with money and the extra time it takes to install. Probably would take another 20 minutes and cost $150. No big deal.
We get the products we push for.
Solve the problem don't just keep useing bandaids.
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I googled and found this
It is not clear as to if you have to replace the monitor. In my case I actually have two monitoring stations, on inside the coach and the other is outside in the water compartment.
Do you know if you can use the existing monitors?
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07-15-2016, 10:56 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Nor'easters Club
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 341
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For the SeeLevel style of sensor typically they mount on a flat wall of your tank and connect to their display. For you that may mean the side wall of each tank, I don't think their sensor boards are flexible. You may be able to use your existing wires. They sell packages to cover different needs/options.
I looked at them before going the less expensive route of the Horst probes. I figured if the probe upgrade didn't work, SeeLevel was my next step. The Horst probes continue to work flawlessly.
__________________
Bob Flight, Rochester, NY- '02 Travel Supreme
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07-15-2016, 02:24 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 1,846
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The monitor is replaced. All models ship with one. The sensor strips can be cut and stacked if you have a deep tank. In most cases the existing wiring will work. No need to pull new wires.
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07-29-2016, 06:02 PM
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#22
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New to the RV World
Vintage RV Owners Club American Coach Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 3,092
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsflight
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So...Have tried the baking soda, and dishwasher soap.
I have filled and drained both tanks several times, used the back flash on the tanks (installed at the factory).
Surprisingly, the black water tank sensors now work, but the gray water tank sensors do not work.
Robert, how did you remove your old sensors? I have seen this video on removing sensors and do not know that I agree with his method. It seems to me that you would run the risk of enlarging the holes, by tightening the bolt the way he did should expand the rubber to seal the hole????
https://youtu.be/lCHJ1ZF9Usk
I would like to use the same holes, but at the moment am inclined to drill new holes
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07-29-2016, 07:38 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 410
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennLever
So...Have tried the baking soda, and dishwasher soap.
I have filled and drained both tanks several times, used the back flash on the tanks (installed at the factory).
Surprisingly, the black water tank sensors now work, but the gray water tank sensors do not work.
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Glenn, unless you have your heart on using the Horst probes, give it time and keep using the mix in your gray tanks. It WILL work, the crud took a while to build up, and it will take a few trips to soften it up and wash off. Good Luck.....
__________________
2003 Pace Arrow 34W, F-53 V-10 22,000#, 5-Star, Avg 7.7 MPG, ScanGauge II, 540 Watt Solar
WiFiRanger Elite Pack, WeBoost 4G-X, Voltage Booster, Progressive Industries EMS
Water Softener, Safe-T-Plus, Koni, Centramatic Balancers, CHF, Rear Trac Bar, EEZ TPMS
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07-30-2016, 07:17 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Nor'easters Club
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 341
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I took the old sensors out after verifying that they were the same size.
one sensor wouldn't come out so I pushed it into the tank. My backup plan was to drill new holes.
__________________
Bob Flight, Rochester, NY- '02 Travel Supreme
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07-31-2016, 09:39 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 410
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OK Glenn, I have been looking for this site for you, it is something I read over 10 yrs ago and it hits the nail on the head. This is your answer, which is the same thing I told you earlier for your tanks.
Check out this site on "The Geo Method": https://sites.google.com/site/cbruni/
__________________
2003 Pace Arrow 34W, F-53 V-10 22,000#, 5-Star, Avg 7.7 MPG, ScanGauge II, 540 Watt Solar
WiFiRanger Elite Pack, WeBoost 4G-X, Voltage Booster, Progressive Industries EMS
Water Softener, Safe-T-Plus, Koni, Centramatic Balancers, CHF, Rear Trac Bar, EEZ TPMS
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