Hopelessly lost with my Winnebago van electrics

[acuriousdude]

Hello! I don't know if i'm in the right place but here goes. Recently, I've given up my job and my apartment to join the wonderful world of life on the road. My girlfriend and I just became the owners of a 1995 chevy conversion van done by Winnebago and we're ready for our big adventure.

However, there is trouble. I've been racking my brain, trying to figure out how the electrics are set up. I don't know much about cars but I'd like to put in a Recreational battery to power the in-house systems. Then i'd use a generator or receptacle power to charge the battery. But it's not that simple.

Most of the electrics are hidden behind the kitchen counter that Winnebago set up, and they are also close to the water systems. (The hole to fill the water tank is directly above a 120v AC outlet and there is no way to tell when it's full and you should stop pouring. Am I crazy or is there a problem here?)

In addition, sometimes the systems work, and sometimes they don't. I made a chart to track the combinations.

Under just starter battery power:
The single TV speaker on the side of the van, the cigarette lighter plug, and the cab lights work.

Under Engine power, I get access to more 12v systems like the fridge, tv/vcr, top vent, and living space lights.

Under 120v AC receptacle power, I get all the above systems as well as 3 120v AC outlets. One of which powers the inverter(?) and the microwave.

Basically, I'm trying to make heads or tails out of these systems and would like to put a recreational battery in to run every system from whether or not I have outside power. I'd also like to charge this battery from three sources, the generator, the 120v AC receptacle on the side of the van, and the alternator.

There doesn't seem to be ANY documentation from Winnebago as to how it's set up since it's not an official Winnebago model but a conversion done by them and I don't know where to start to look for it. Any help at all would be extremely appreciated. Thanks in advance!

[RVThere]

Making the assumption that some of the wiring on your 1995 is the same or similar to a 1997 Winnebago, you may want to look on the Winnebago website where the have all the wiring diagrams going back to 1997:

http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/Wiring.htm

That will at least get you started.

Good luck!

[John Hilley]

Your system doesn't make sense. With "under engine power", I assume you mean with the engine running. Those systems should be available all the time, especially the refrigerator. How many batteries do you have, I would assume two, one for engine and one for house. When you mention inverter, does it convert battery power to 120 VAC, if so it is an inverter. If however, it just charges the batteries when on 120VAC shore power, then it is a converter. It could also be both.

If Winnebago converted it, then they must have plans and would be able to answer your questions and even send you copies of some of the diagrams.

You can contact Winnebago at:

Corporate Switchboard
(641)-585-3535
For general inquiries.

Service Administration
(800)-537-1885

[FLYTYER]

acuriousdude....welcome to the IRV2 website. We are happy to have to join us. Jump in any time and ask your questions. We will do our best to answer and help.

I do not know if your have used your conversion van yet for a trip, but I'll bet you will enjoy it.

As for your question and concerns, I too would be as concerned.

As it has been suggested already, call Winnebago Customer Service. Have your VIN, Winnebago Product number or serial number handy. You should find these on a plate or laminated card near the driver's position or possibly inside a cabinet door perhaps near utilities.

Please post back to keep us updated. Your results will be useful to many others.

[acuriousdude]

So I called winnebago this morning. They said that they typically don't do van conversions and haven't for a while. Also, he mentioned that they don't have the blueprints or wiring diagrams or even an owners manual since it was probably done off the cuff.

He suggested that we call and RV dealer and repair facility and hopefully they can perform the kind of upgrade that I want. I asked about a secondary battery and he suggested that based on the info I gave him, the van is running on shore power and the starter battery only.

I'm swinging by a local RV facility and maybe I can take advantage of their services.

[John Hilley]

If you only have one battery, there is probably a Chevrolet second battery tray available, as most diesel vans have two batteries. Your fridge, furnace, water heater and house lighting and inverter (if you have an inverter) should be run off the second battery. You should install a battery isolation solenoid to charge both batteries with engine running, but to separate them while camping. This will assure that you can always start the engine. A Honda EU2000i would be a nice addition to your van.

[acuriousdude]

Thanks for all your help! Okay so I took it to an RV shop and had the guy look at it. After checking the thing out, he wasn't too impressed with the way it was set up. There is only the starter battery and it isn't charged by shore power. The TV audio runs off of the starter so draw your own conclusions.

He wants to switch out the converter with a beefier one as well as install an inverter with a voltage controller. Then we would install a 12vDC breaker box. He also wants to put in a recreational battery and hook it up to get a charge from the alternator and shore.

He quoted 85 bucks an hour for roughly 6 hours of work. Combined with the cost of parts and a generator it would come out to about 2 grand. Do you guys have any thoughts?

[FLYTYER]

If had a unit like yours and was serious about doing this I would want to keep the costs in control. So I would want to see a list of the RV Tech's recommendations and estimated costs.

I would drop the generator idea unless you really want to boondock where there is no shore power. You can always buy the generator later.

The connections needed could be installed now and be ready for use later.

You also have to figure on where the generator will be stored and where the gasoline will be stored.

[John Hilley]

Does your fridge run on 12 VDC and 120 VAC? The cost seems reasonable. You can buy a 45 amp converter on eBay for $120, a small DC breaker or fuse panel should be under $50. A Deep Discharge battery from Costco or Sam's Club about $70. Your would probably need about $200 for new wire and cable. I would get a 200 watt Honda EU2000i generator. you can just plug in your existing shore power cord, nothing new to install. We carry ours in a large plastic tub with a cover in the back of our Jeep. You can get a good 2 1/2 gallon gas can that doesn't emit fumes.

[EngineerMike]

Curious-
1) I think the Winnie guy was trying to get rid of you quick w/a not-too-brilliant snow job. Winnie did lots of van conversions. If you continue the hunt you will likely find some level of documentation, but probably nothing like working drawings.
2) Your Rv tech connection is thinking along exactly the lines I was. 1994 (woulda been the construction year most likely for a 95 rig) 12V converters are none too sophisticated compared to today's electronics. You can do way better now toward the goals you've espoused, and the tech is taking that route. "B" units are notoriously short on space so everything is way crowded; make sure all his new wiring is well placed, secured, & he's using "split loom" casing to avoid stray wiring and chaffing later on.
3) I suspect the fridge not working except when alternator is supplying 12Vdc is by design if it is a 12V electric fridge; if fridge is propane w/a 12V controller then this isn't right. If the former, you can have that changed over to your new 12V battery, but have it installed w/a switch or better yet a timer and a relay to connect when the alternator is running. That will give you the best of both worlds; you will have to learn into the lifespan of your "house" battery w/a 12V fridge cuz that's a pretty good draw.

Welcome, and best of luck on your new adventure. One way to figure out if you have the right girlfriend is to move in with her into a Class B RV!!

[VI Roamers]

It sounds to me like you have a battery isolator already in your rig. When you start the engine, the battery isolator allows engine battery power to power the devices in your camper. When you shut off the engine, no power to the devices.

With that thought, adding a second battery to the "camper" part will do what you want. It will charge from the engine when the engine is running, and run the devices when the engine is off.

You must have a converter already in there, producing 12 volt power from 120 volts to run your roof vents and other things. This will also charge your camper battery (once you put it in there)

And your generator will power your rig with 120 volts just like plugging it in to house power.

All you really need is a second battery in my opinion.

[FLYTYER]

acuriousdude....check your EMAIL !!

[acuriousdude]

FLYTER:
We're definitely going to be doing a lot of boondocking. We want to do a lot of camping so we're not going to spend a lot of time in the RV parks. The generator gives us the freedom of running our tech devices without relying on shore power. I lucked out and got this van a bit below my budget so I have some wiggle room when it comes to the upgrades. I'd rather sink the entire cost now than spread it out. I have a good place for the gasoline. There is a storage bin in the rear. For the generator , I'm looking at a small one that should fit in that area as well.

John:
My fridge isn't really a fridge at all. it's an igloo kool mate 36. Basically, it runs on 12VDC and has a fan and a heat sink for heating or cooling. No actual refridgeration means that most of the stuff in there stays a bit below room temperature most of the time. I might replace it. I was looking at the generator you mentioned (EU2000i) but it's very pricey. I'm also looking at the Yamaha EF2400IS does anyone have any suggestions on choosing between them and is 2000W sufficient? The rest of the parts, I might go to ebay for, but I'm a bit worried about the large volume of scammers lately.

EngineerMike:
You might be right about that, but he didn't seem very knowledgable so he might just not have known. I'm continuing to look into it. I'll make sure to give the tech your suggestions if I can make an appointment. He said there would be a few weeks wait time until he had a slot. I might look somewhere else to see if I could get it done sooner. And yes, she's the right girl for me. She's almost more excited about our new life than I am.

VI Roamers:
This is more or less my plan, except I'm looking into an inverter as well so that I can run my 120V AC off the battery as well.


Learning that the shore power wasn't charging my starter has made me a bit paranoid, plus the battery meter looks a bit too close to 9 for my comfort. I hope there isn't anything draining it without my knowledge like that wonky tv speaker.

Thanks for all your help so far, guys!

[John Hilley]

"I was looking at the generator you mentioned (EU2000i) but it's very pricey. I'm also looking at the Yamaha EF2400IS does anyone have any suggestions on choosing between them and is 2000W sufficient?"

You can get the Honda EU2000i from Wise Sales or Mayberrys for about $860 delivered to your door. It is well worth it. The Yamaha is about the same price and both are high quality. They make a 1,000 watt Honda for $699, but I don't think it would be quite enough for recharging your battery. We have a 5500 watt Onan, but use our 2,000 watt Honda for almost every thing. They are quiet and very fuel efficient as well as light weight.