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Old 05-21-2012, 06:57 PM   #1
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Hot water heater ignites but won't stay on

Hi all. The gas water heater burner fires up when we flip the on switch inside (clicking of the electric ignitor followed by a nice blow torch in the tube). After a few seconds of blow torch though the gas shuts off. I'm guessing its something to do with the thermocoupler (sound smart but I have no idea where it is or how to replace it :R ). As I understand it, the thermocoupler senses the flame/heat and keeps the gas valve open, but if it fails to sense heat/flame, it shuts the gas off. Sound right?
I know the heater has water in it (drained and refilled) and I know I have fuel.
Any suggestions are much appreciated!
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Old 05-21-2012, 07:10 PM   #2
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w/h

your w/h does not have a thurmocouple what you describe sounds like the electronics are not detecting flame if unit has ben out of service for a while could be a muddauber nest. it could be a dirty flame sencor or a bad control board lee
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Old 05-21-2012, 07:18 PM   #3
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OK, that helps me stop trying to identify the thermocouple then. LOL. There are no muddauber nests or the like. Where is the flame sensor located and what does it look like? Is there a way to test the control board (like jumping connectors or using a multimeter)?

Thanks!
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Old 05-21-2012, 07:30 PM   #4
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The flame sensor is an electronic setup on the heater control board down at the heater - other than the remote possibility of the sensor wire coming loose at the burner, more likely the control board has failed - about $85 from Dinosaur electronics last one I had to buy...
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Old 05-24-2012, 05:41 PM   #5
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Some rv service centers have diagnostic tools, unclip the motherboard( google manual for make model etc )........
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Old 05-24-2012, 05:56 PM   #6
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I had the same issue. I my case the excessive dust/dirt in the tube was apparently causing a flame out. I brushed the tube and blew it out with compressed air and all is good. Lots of stuff came out btw. I guess the dust was igniting and blowing out the flame?

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Old 05-24-2012, 09:19 PM   #7
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The igniter electrode needs to sense the flame to keep the burner going to heat water.
Once water is heated the burner shuts off by its thermostat.
The electrode can build up carbon on electrode and needs to be cleaned off with a soft cloth and contact cleaner.
If this is not your heater go to RV Appliance like below for other heater info.
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Old 05-24-2012, 09:27 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 007";1188112]The [B][URL="http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/subsw.pdf
igniter electrode[/URL][/B] needs to sense the flame to keep the burner going to heat water.
Once water is heated the burner shuts off by its thermostat.
The electrode can build up carbon on electrode and needs to be cleaned off with a soft cloth and contact cleaner.
If this is not your heater go to RV Appliance like below for other heater info.

And I would say the electrode is a thermocouple.
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Old 05-24-2012, 09:27 PM   #9
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Check all the 12v electrical connections for corrosion.
And the flame sensor is a wire bent at 90* in the burner path. On a DSI unit it senses flame and reports to the control board to continue to allow gas to enter the burner venturi. If it does not report a flame present the gas is shut off.
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Old 06-04-2012, 02:45 PM   #10
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Did you solve your problem? If so, what did you fine?
I'm having the exact problem with mine. If I apply an external 12 v supply to the gas valve it will continue to burn. I'm thinking its the board but would like to verify before I purchase a new one.
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Old 06-04-2012, 07:56 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dls461 View Post
Did you solve your problem? If so, what did you fine?
I'm having the exact problem with mine. If I apply an external 12 v supply to the gas valve it will continue to burn. I'm thinking its the board but would like to verify before I purchase a new one.
Do you have continuity through the ECO and the snap-disc t'stat?
Also, applying external 12vdc to the gas valve doesn't mean the board is bad. It could still be the flame sensor. By applying 12vde tot he valve all you've done is bypass all the controls
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Old 06-05-2012, 06:12 AM   #12
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I would suggest you also check the thermostat to be sure it is working before spending the money on a control board.
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Old 06-05-2012, 07:36 AM   #13
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In the OPs case it sounds like it is the Thermal Cut-Off part number MPD 93866
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Old 06-05-2012, 09:17 AM   #14
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My 1989 pace did the same thing i cleaned and all hte other thing turned out to be a bad board
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