Community Forums

tonytrouble · 07-24-2012, 10:00 PM

I have an Atwood Model G6A7 Hot water Heater Pilot Model, it has a White Rogers controller. The pilot light will lite and the main burner will ignite but only for a few seconds. I can hear the controller click and the both the pilot light and burner shuts down. You can immediately relight and start the process over again. I have cleaned the burner tube and made sure the gas jet was clear. The burner tube is align and the flame spreader is also align. I have searched the threads and the service Manuel but can't seem to find a fix. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Dunner · 07-24-2012, 10:35 PM

My water heater has a label that says to re-seat all the connectors before replacing the control board. Do each a couple of times and see it that helps.

RV Wizard · 07-25-2012, 02:57 AM

The standing pilot type gas valves have a thermal fuse that is inside the tank and if it goes bad the only repair is a new valve. What you describe is the symptoms of a bad valve, if the pilot will only stay lit in the pilot position and as soon as you move it to on it goes out.

mind logic · 07-25-2012, 11:53 AM

Im having the same issue. I have replaced the thermocouple and also the valve with no luck. Ive cleaned the burner, pipes, and connections as well.

What happens for me is the pilot light will light. If I do not try to turn the burner on, it will last for roughly 4 minutes before it goes out. If I try to turn on the burner, it will ignite for 1-2 seconds then it will shut off. I have to then take the burner out before I can relite the pilot light.

Every search says its an air flow problem. However, I have also vacuumed out all parts, the vent on the bottom of the heater, checked the flu, and the pipe in the middle of the tank. Still it will not work.

I am lost and have tried everything except for replacing the pilot light assembly. Could that be it? Or are there other sensors in the tank that is stopping the burner from firing? I did drain the tank to replace the valve. Do I have to refill it completely before it works?

Please help, at a very big loss right now.

graycarpet · 07-25-2012, 01:54 PM

How about a defective limit switch. I don't have your model but I believe all water heaters have limit switches to prevent the take from boiling and becoming rocket. They are not hard to change and are not that expensive. I would try it first. I believe you can test it with an ohm meter. I believe it should measure a short. If it is open the burner will shut off maybe even the pilot.

tonytrouble · 07-25-2012, 09:16 PM

Thanks RV Wizard but how do i get to the thermal fuse. I think this could be the problem there is something making the control valve shut off the gas. Also good luck mind logic. Mine and your problem sounds to be the same maybe we can get the problems fix. Please keep us posted.

rvguy40 · 07-25-2012, 09:26 PM

Mi Atwood does it in high humidity or after a heavy rain ONLY. I've tracked it to the control board...

The insulation in it has a hole in it somewhere, and allows moisture into it. If I can get it lit and warm the board up, when it shuts down, I leave it for about half an hour. The heat "cooks" the moisture out of the board and it performs perfectly for the rest of the weekend. New board being installed this weekend, btw.

RV Wizard · 07-26-2012, 03:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tonytrouble

Thanks RV Wizard but how do i get to the thermal fuse. I think this could be the problem there is something making the control valve shut off the gas. Also good luck mind logic. Mine and your problem sounds to be the same maybe we can get the problems fix. Please keep us posted.

The thermal fuse is inside the tank, in the tip section of the gas valve assembly. Turn off the LP gas supply as well as the water supply and relieve any water pressure from tank.. Disconnect the LP gas line fitting on the gas valve. The valve will have to be removed by turning it counter-clockwise. There is a tool designed to do this and without it, it may be pretty difficult to un-thread. You may want to consider biting the bullet and upgrading the whole water heater to an automatic ignition type and have a warranty to boot. Good luck and let us know what you decide to do.

tonytrouble · 07-26-2012, 10:27 AM

RV Wizard thanks for this info. I have seen one of the tools to take the valve off. I am going to attempt to fabricate one and weld it together. i will let you know how both turn out..

rvguy40 · 07-26-2012, 10:59 AM

My apologies... I misread and thought it was an ignition type water heater... the blond moments are running closer together...:(

tonytrouble · 07-29-2012, 08:12 PM

Just a quick up date. Made tool to take valve out. (see picture). Got valve out and found one for 74.99 at AdventureRV.net. Haven't ordered yet but plan to this week unless anyone has a better idea.

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tonytrouble · 08-10-2012, 08:57 PM

I got the new valve installed and have hot water again. Just in case anyone had the same question as I did, that the Atwood 91602 valve was the correct valve replacement for the White Rogers Valve 91043 in the G6A7 hot-water heater. I emailed customer support at Atwood. They advised it was the correct replacement valve.