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Old 07-24-2016, 02:53 PM   #15
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Outlet gas pressure too high
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Old 07-25-2016, 08:18 AM   #16
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The upper sheet metal can removed with just a couple of screws. take a coat hanger, bend the end in a loop small loop, shove it in the flue. Move the coat hanger in and out of the flue.
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Old 01-14-2017, 07:09 AM   #17
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Let my resurrect this thread with a question.

doing the test the valve track has a high resistance nearly a meg ohm, that means circuit board is bad, right.

It lights off good and has good flame but shuts down after a few seconds.
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Old 01-14-2017, 11:24 AM   #18
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Embarrising Story About Lighting Hot Water Heater

Hi,

So I have a silly story. We left Colorado Springs headed to our new destination and excited to travel with the travel trailer. Prior to winter I paid the shop to winterize the trailer because I didn't know how to and felt scared to try it. My son and I went the entire time without hot water until we stayed at Travis AFB campground. I could NOT for the life of me figure out why we couldn't get hot water even after reading my manual. None of it made sense. We had to use the campground showers along the way and thank God for them! Finally, finally someone mentioned a valve that apparently was turned off when winterizing the trailer. I asked so many people. I had already called Pikes Peak Traveland and asked what they did when they winterized our trailer. I thought they tore up the water heater but told myself surely not and it's a 2015 trailer. I called a couple of times in hopes of help. They never mentioned a valve. I guess people have a hard time understanding me sometimes because not knowing how to explain things and being somewhat new with the trailer use. Finally and thankfully a guy at the campground flipped a valve and boom, we had hot water. Oh my goodness I was so happy! I wanted to hug everybody around...hehe. I felt so Stu..d. BTW, we love Pikes Peak Traveland but they just didn't understand what I was saying because I didn't know how to explain it. I would have never winterized it right by myself because I wouldn't have known about turning that valve thingamajig.

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Old 01-15-2017, 05:08 AM   #19
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Wires in the water tank????? Wow, they must think you are really old and in need of a good fleecing!!!!


I wonder what the wires would do? Hmmm..... I sure would like to ask them! did you use a coat hanger to check for flue impediments?


Ok, so in the past I've said there is one item that a fella should have who is going to have an RV. Now I revise that , not only does one need a battery load tester, one should spring for a "manometer" or propane gas pressure tester. Hopefully your RV shop tested the propane pressure when it worked on your water heater.


However, if they want to you to replace the wires in the tank, then I would guess that they would recommend that you can hook the water heater (1/2 psi) directly to the propane tank (125 psi) with no gas regulator... No, don't do this....
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Old 03-12-2023, 03:07 PM   #20
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2015 Fleetwood Bounder ATWOODnowDOMETIC HOT WATER HEATER

WILL NOT FIRE UP WHEN THE COVER IS CLOSED!! CRAZY!!

I know it sounds crazy, and has driven me crazy because the techs would come out, open the hot water heater, it would fire up just fine, then left. The 3rd time they came out, he mentioned that it wouldn't ignite when the cover was closed!! I said gosh no wonder I thought I was going crazy !! So they came out, opened the cover, all was well, I had hot water, UNTIL, it tried to relight, and couldn't because when they left they closed the cover.
?
So now it is open all the time and the gas fires up just fine although the gas/air mixture chamber needs tweaked which they will do when they come out to replace the electric heating element that has failed.

I've never heard of such a crazy thing, but its true and I had to share this with everyone....it has to be in either the gas valve allowing too much gas in or the air/gas mixer.

Sparks just fine but will NOT light when the door is closed to the unit! I just tried it again after 3 days of leaving it open and it will cycle and pop pop pop but will not ignite when the cover is closed.

ANY CLUE as to this problem?
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Old 03-12-2023, 03:13 PM   #21
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Actual Model Number?

Atwood not a Dometic?

Sounds like Spark Electrode Wire is being grounded when cover is closed

How long has this been going on?

Has the burner tube been cleaned---bottle brush not blown out with air?
Has the Orifice been cleaned (soak in alcohol then AIR dry...not compressor air blown thru it)?
Does adjusting air shutter make any difference?
Spark Gap (1/8" - 3/16")
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Old 03-12-2023, 03:43 PM   #22
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Old 03-13-2023, 06:23 AM   #23
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Actual Model Number? GC10A-4E

Atwood not a Dometic? Atwood.

Sounds like Spark Electrode Wire is being grounded when cover is closed SPARKS FINE, NO ISSUES WITH SPARK WHEN CLOSED. IT CYCLES THE SPARKS BUT DOES NOT LIGHT.

How long has this been going on? A Week, since the electric element went out.

Has the burner tube been cleaned---bottle brush not blown out with air? Unknown.

Has the Orifice been cleaned (soak in alcohol then AIR dry...not compressor air blown thru it)? Unknown but it operates fine with door open.

Does adjusting air shutter make any difference? I haven't tried anything because it is operable. Tech will come and maintenance the unit when he replaces the electric element.

Spark Gap (1/8" - 3/16")
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Old 03-13-2023, 07:02 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lincolnboy2 View Post
Actual Model Number? GC10A-4E

Atwood not a Dometic? Atwood.

Sounds like Spark Electrode Wire is being grounded when cover is closed SPARKS FINE, NO ISSUES WITH SPARK WHEN CLOSED. IT CYCLES THE SPARKS BUT DOES NOT LIGHT.

How long has this been going on? A Week, since the electric element went out.

Has the burner tube been cleaned---bottle brush not blown out with air? Unknown.

Has the Orifice been cleaned (soak in alcohol then AIR dry...not compressor air blown thru it)? Unknown but it operates fine with door open.

Does adjusting air shutter make any difference? I haven't tried anything because it is operable. Tech will come and maintenance the unit when he replaces the electric element.

Spark Gap (1/8" - 3/16")
Can you actually see the spark? You may be hearing the tick tick tick but that doesn't mean there's a spark at the electrode. Is it possible the door touches the spark plug wire when it's closed? A bad spot in the wire could allow the spark to short to metal before it gets to the electrode.
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Old 03-13-2023, 07:15 AM   #25
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Can you actually see the spark? NO I CAN HEAR IT DISTINCTLY

You may be hearing the tick tick tick but that doesn't mean there's a spark at the electrode. THE POPPING SOUND IS THE SAME AS WHEN IT LIGHTS WHEN THE COVER IS OPEN

Is it possible the door touches the spark plug wire when it's closed? NO IT DOES NOT TOUCH IT DOES NOT EXTEND THAT FAR OUT BUT THANKS
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Old 03-14-2023, 10:50 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post

How long has this been going on?

Has the burner tube been cleaned---bottle brush not blown out with air?
Has the Orifice been cleaned (soak in alcohol then AIR dry...not compressor air blown thru it)?
Does adjusting air shutter make any difference?
Spark Gap (1/8" - 3/16")
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lincolnboy2 View Post
Actual Model Number? GC10A-4E

Atwood not a Dometic? Atwood.

Sounds like Spark Electrode Wire is being grounded when cover is closed SPARKS FINE, NO ISSUES WITH SPARK WHEN CLOSED. IT CYCLES THE SPARKS BUT DOES NOT LIGHT.

How long has this been going on? A Week, since the electric element went out.

Has the burner tube been cleaned---bottle brush not blown out with air? Unknown.

Has the Orifice been cleaned (soak in alcohol then AIR dry...not compressor air blown thru it)? Unknown but it operates fine with door open.

Does adjusting air shutter make any difference? I haven't tried anything because it is operable. Tech will come and maintenance the unit when he replaces the electric element.

Spark Gap (1/8" - 3/16")

Has the issue been resolved?

Did you clean the orifice, burner assembly, spark electrode, combustion/exhaust chamber etc???
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Old 03-14-2023, 04:35 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
Has the issue been resolved?



Did you clean the orifice, burner assembly, spark electrode, combustion/exhaust chamber etc???


Not yet the tech is coming to replace the heating element. Electric heat went out a couple weeks ago. What a headache to get to
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Old 03-16-2023, 09:46 AM   #28
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Tech is working on it now.

He took the air/gas tube out and there was a piece of aluminum coated tape on the bottom of the air/gas tube inlet that was blocking about 2 of the openings. Prior owner or prior tech modification. So that would have an effect on the air/gas mixture for sure, cutting down the oxygen intake. The techs are doing a complete maintenance and replacing the electric element as well, will keep you posted.
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