Community Forums

mikekelly · 03-27-2014, 03:02 PM

I recently installed a Samsung model RF197 ACBP residential refrigerator in my '05 Tiffin Phaeton. I secured the bottom of the refrigerator very well, but I will need to secure the top rear of the unit for additional stability. I want to screw two small brackets to the top, rear edge of the refrigerator, on the top surface, approximately 1 inch from the rear edge. Ideally, the two brackets would be located approximately 10” to 12” inward from each outside edge, although the placement of the brackets along the top surface is very flexible. If this position will interfere with something internally I also have the option of attaching the brackets to the top rear edge, along the back surface. In either case I would like to use #12 X 1” long self-taping screws. I anticipate the screws will penetrate the case about .875”.

My question is- are there any areas within the areas I have described above that will interfere with internal items, and should thus be avoided? Piercing a refrigerant line is something I would very much like to avoid!!

Dr4Film · 03-27-2014, 06:48 PM

My advice is to not drill into the top of the fridge. If the bottom is well secured both front and rear then forget about the top.

My RF197 is NOT affixed to anything at the top. All of the attachment points are at the bottom, two in the front and three at the rear.

It's been like that for over 2 years and 10,000 miles with a trip to Alaska and back. It hasn't moved at all.

Do as you please but do not do any drilling into the fridge.

Dr4Film ----- Richard

KIX · 03-27-2014, 07:01 PM

Here's what I did to secure the top of our 197. You will note at the top front edge there is a plastic piece running from side to side. This plastic piece has two 1 inch square x 1/2" depressions. I used a piece of plywood that spanned the opening and engaged the cabinet the 197 is in. On the side of the plywood I screwed and glued two matching 1" squares of 1/2" plywood to engage the depressions in the plastic piece. Rock solid for over 20K miles.

Papa_Jim · 03-27-2014, 07:20 PM

I assume that you have a little bit of clearance between the top of the fridge and the wood above it. Here's what I did.

I have about 1/4" space between the top of the fridge and the wood above it. I used a 3/4" X 3/4" aluminum angle iron, and cut it to the width of the fridge. Then I used 3M Industrial double sided tape to glue the angle iron onto the top of the fridge. Then I fastened the angle iron to the wood with screws, first drilling the angle iron for the screws.

Jim

powerboatr · 03-27-2014, 10:01 PM

in my m/h i screwed a piece of wood into the ceiling about 8 inches behind the top of the fridge, it has about 1/2 space between the fridge top and the wood block, this way the fridge can wiggle but not tip as the top will wedge itself against the wood block

tricotec · 03-27-2014, 10:28 PM

I had mine professionally installed by Elite Repair & Remodeling in Harrisburg, OR. Here is what they did:

I think the strips of metal they used are just common stuff you can get at Home Depot for transitioning to/from carpet flooring. You can install spacer shims in the back of the fridge if you need to to get it exactly flush with the front like Elite did.

mikekelly · 03-28-2014, 05:43 AM

Thanks for all your valuable input! If possible, please post pictures of your solutions- As has been said- a picture is worth a thousand words! Again- Thanks so much!

zzjea · 03-28-2014, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikekelly

Thanks for all your valuable input! If possible, please post pictures of your solutions- As has been said- a picture is worth a thousand words! Again- Thanks so much!

Look in this thread and you will see several solutions:
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/resid...-177993-3.html

I used 2 "L" brackets screwed to the ceiling in the front. Can't be seen when door is closed.

DO NOT drill into any of the metal encasing the unit as you may puncture a refrig line or break an electrical wire.

John