How to get Refrigerator out of lock out mode.

gopedal · 10-17-2010, 10:15 AM

My refrigerator won't go onto AC mode. It will use LP. The dealer told me it is in Lock Out mode from being on unlevel ground. He said I have to take it to a dealer to get it out of that mode. Is that the only way to get the refrigerator out of lock out mode?

**Gary RVRoamer** · 10-17-2010, 11:02 AM

Your dealer is showing his ignorance of absorption fridges. If it works in LP mode, it is not locked out. An out of level condition would affect both modes - it's the same cooling unit in both modes - just a different heat source.

Tell us what make and model of fridge and we can perhaps suggest a home fix. I'd start looking at the circuit breaker for the fridge's 120vac power, and then an AC fuse on the fridge circuit board. Last, it could be a burned out 120vac heater element.

gopedal · 10-17-2010, 08:07 PM

I'll get the information tomorrow and check the other items as well and then get back to you. Thanks.

TXiceman · 10-18-2010, 07:19 PM

Believe the dealer is BLOWING SMOKE. First try to totally remove all power, 12 VDC and 120 VAC from the frig. let it set for 5 minutes and now power it up and start it. See if this changes anything. most likely it is a control board problem or possibly a bad heater element. If you replace the board, go back with a Dinosaur board...not the OEM board.

Ken

gopedal · 10-19-2010, 07:57 PM

Ken,

Thanks for the additional information. I have been unable to get back to the frig because of work issues but I will within a day or so. Mike gave me some ideas as well. I'll post the fix or further problem in a couple of days.

Glenn

Pete & Linda · 10-20-2010, 09:40 PM

What is lockout mode. Back in the 70s a ruined a freg by leaving it on by mistake when stored very unlevel. I am very gun shy now. How can I tell in my unit has this feature?

gopedal · 10-21-2010, 06:10 PM

RV Roamer,

The model is a NORCOLD 120X-IM, I checked and I have AC to the frig. The light comes on when you open the door. Through the access panel I have 120 volts going into the control panel. I took the cover off of the control panel and I can see the many transistors and diodes. There are two yellow and two black wires going from the panel to what appears to be the refrigerant pipe but it is covered with insulation. Tomorrow I hope to check them for continuity. You appear to be correct about the fact that if one heat source is working then the other should be as well. I will be careful to check the fault codes tomorrow but for now all I can remember is "no." I did not see a "co" which would indicate the heat sources are turned off and locked out. Thanks for staying with me. I have it sitting on a slight slope while I wait for a retraction solenoid for the front slide. Once that is in I can get to a level spot and try the shut it off restart it routine. In the meanwhile, anything else to check?

gopedal · 10-23-2010, 06:59 PM

I continue to search for the problem. This 03 Journey has a double refrigerator model #1201LRIM. Outside on the body of the accumulator it has NORCOLD R801202. I have current to the Board. Both the 5 amp fuse and the smaller wire fuse are good. I've tried to check ohm's in the heating unit (two yellow and two black wires). I either get a complete circuit or no resistance at all. I believe I should be getting 40 to 50 ohms of resistance. My problem is I am unsure if I am testing the right wires and why there would be four of them.

**RV Wizard** · 10-24-2010, 03:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gopedal

I continue to search for the problem. This 03 Journey has a double refrigerator model #1201LRIM. Outside on the body of the accumulator it has NORCOLD R801202. I have current to the Board. Both the 5 amp fuse and the smaller wire fuse are good. I've tried to check ohm's in the heating unit (two yellow and two black wires). I either get a complete circuit or no resistance at all. I believe I should be getting 40 to 50 ohms of resistance. My problem is I am unsure if I am testing the right wires and why there would be four of them.

The tag on the accumulator is the serial number of the cooling unit. This size refrigerator requires more BTU's of heat and therefor they use two heating elements. One heating element will have a yellow and black wire. You should be able to ohm out or check voltage to & the amperage of heating elements knowing this. If you have a good 120 vac feeding the control board, a good fuse & the heating element circuit is good and it still will not select AC mode; then the control board is bad.

HD4Mark · 10-24-2010, 06:22 AM

Mike,
Another 1200 series Norcold with a problem. Just had ours repaired to the tune of $1500 (extended warranty paid most). Is it me or do these seem to be problematic? I realize they are a complicated and impressive unit but I see a lot of posts about trouble with them. Not bashing Norcold.

roamy · 10-24-2010, 05:23 PM

I put a new board in and it worked for 30 days and then went out again. There is no doubt that Norcold is a piece of crap - that is why other companys make money manufacturing power boards for the junk Norcold makes.

TXiceman · 10-24-2010, 05:42 PM

Like I said....get a replacement board from Dinosaur....

ken

KIX · 10-24-2010, 06:23 PM

GoPedal, Things to check when no AC cooling

1. AC to control board.....I think you've already done this
2. Check fuse on control board
3. Check that there is resistance between yellow and black wires that go to each of the two heaters.
4. Check resistance on each heater. Optimal on each heater is 64 Ohms

If all the above is good then it's the board. Also, just a FYI. The off=level operating limits are 3* side to side and 6* front to back

hope all this helps you diagnose the problem.

The Norcold is as good as any absorption refrigerator. They just aren't to be confused with a compressor refrigerator's operating efficiencies.