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Old 07-23-2018, 07:15 PM   #1
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How to seal propane line? Which wire is hot?

I'm removing the Dometic 2 way refer and replacing it with a DC compressor unit. The wires to the old unit are green and white, which is hot? How do I seal the propane line that is not needed? Here's what is left
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Old 07-23-2018, 07:20 PM   #2
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Cut the end off, get a copper cap and solder it on. Either that or see if you can get a shark bite end cap. Both available at Home Depot, Lowe's or some other hardware store.
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Old 07-23-2018, 07:40 PM   #3
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When I installed my Residential, I used a 3/8 brass flare plug. These are available at any hardware store. It screws into the existing tube flared fitting. You can see this if you look at the photos on my site. After you install the plug, verify no leaks.

As for the 12 volt wires, I screwed a couple small (yellow I think) wire nuts onto the wires, then wrapped them in electrical tape.

I wrote it all up on my web site:


Residential Frig Replacement – 1999 Southwind 35S


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Old 07-23-2018, 07:56 PM   #4
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Waiter21, I need the 12 volt power, but I wish they were black and red like the new refer. I'm just leaving the AC plug in the back of the cabinet. There's plenty of space.

I found a flare plug, thanks!
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Old 07-23-2018, 11:32 PM   #5
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Unfortunately RV MFGs do not use any standard wiring colors


White is probably 12V DC POS
Green is probably 12V DC NEG
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Old 07-23-2018, 11:40 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
Unfortunately RV MFGs do not use any standard wiring colors


White is probably 12V DC POS
Green is probably 12V DC NEG
And I was about to post the opposite.

Dig out your volt/ohm meter , using the metal RV chassis for ground test for voltage on each wire , on the wire that shows no volts , check for , zero ohms resistance . THAT'S the only way to be sure.
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Old 07-24-2018, 09:12 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waiter21 View Post
When I installed my Residential, I used a 3/8 brass flare plug. These are available at any hardware store. It screws into the existing tube flared fitting. You can see this if you look at the photos on my site. After you install the plug, verify no leaks.

As for the 12 volt wires, I screwed a couple small (yellow I think) wire nuts onto the wires, then wrapped them in electrical tape.

I wrote it all up on my web site:


Residential Frig Replacement – 1999 Southwind 35S


..
I was going to reply that I would not cut off the fitting and then sweat/solder a cap on. The flare type plug you show is the easy and safe procedure. It's also easily removed if propane is ever needed again.

On the wires, voltmeter is what is needed. If you're sure they are 12 vdc, not 120 vac, then connect the black lead to metal frame and red lead to one of the wires. If no reading, then connect the red lead to the other wire.

If still no reading, then it could mean the metal frame you connected to may not be grounded. Connect the voltmeter leads directly to the wires (red on one, black on the other) to see if voltage is present. If using a digital voltmeter, then look to see if a minus sign ( - ) is present on the display. If the minus sign is there, then switch the leads and it should go away. The red lead will be on the positive wire when it's gone.

On the chance you have an analog voltmeter, the needle will swing backwards if the red lead gets connected to the negative side of the battery. Reverse the leads and it should swing correctly towards the 12 volt mark. Again, the red lead will be connected to the positive when this occurs.
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Old 07-24-2018, 10:22 AM   #8
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To add to the above hook your DVOM to both white & green with scale set to 20v. If it reads 12v the red lead is on the positive. If it reads -12v then the red lead is touching the negative.
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Old 07-24-2018, 10:44 AM   #9
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My voltmeter is MIA, but I have a handy USB socket that only works when properly connected. That will tell me which is hot. Thanks for all the help guys!
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Old 07-24-2018, 08:48 PM   #10
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If you figure you where the propane connects along the bottom of the trailer it can be disconnected and a 3/8" flare cap installed. This way there is never any worry of a leak inside the trailer.
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Old 07-25-2018, 11:04 AM   #11
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I figured out the green wire is hot when I was helping load the old refrigerator into it's new owners's truck. I cut the wires about 1” from a connector block. Red was attached to green. Duh!

Alloy, that's a good idea, thanks!
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Old 07-25-2018, 11:25 AM   #12
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DO NOT TRUST WIRE COLORS -- Get a voltmeter and measure it.. Put the negative of your voltmeter ona good metal ground, or if possible, on the negative lead of the battery.. Then use the other probe on each of the wires to see what they read..
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Old 07-25-2018, 11:29 AM   #13
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There's a true RV MFG electrician at work.....Green/HOT
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Old 07-25-2018, 11:46 AM   #14
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Green/white wire must be a few cents cheaper than black/red. I feel confident that green in this location is hot since the old refrigerator ran on it for 7+ years.
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