How to test electric water heater element

[USMCRET]

The electrical portion of my 10 gal Suburban water heater quit working this weekend. I switched over to LP and it worked fine.

I checked everything I knew to check, including the thermostat reset. The only thing I can think of is the heating element itself went south.

How exactly would I go about testing the heating element with a multimeter? I haven't pulled it yet, but will look at it on Wednesday.

Secondly, what is the expected life span of one of these elements?

Thanks much!
Ed

[mahon1993]

I would start by making sure you have 110v to the outlet that the element is plugged into. You might have a popped breaker or bad switch.

You can test the element with the ohms function or a continuity setting. First, make sure the heating element is OFF. Most of them plug into a 110v outlet right in back of the heater. Unplug the heating element. You can then test the element with the ohm scale or continunity setting. You should have a reading or show continuity when putting the meter on the two terminals on the element. The other thing to test is the thermostat mounted to the back of the heater. Again, when the heater is cold, you should read continuity across it. The thermostat turns the element on and off as needed. If you read "0" ohms or no conunity across the element it's bad.
Greg

[John Hilley]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mahon1993 I would start by making sure you have 110v to the outlet that the element is plugged into. You might have a popped breaker or bad switch. You can test the element with the ohms function or a continuity setting. First, make sure the heating element is OFF. Most of them plug into a 110v outlet right in back of the heater. Unplug the heating element. You can then test the element with the ohm scale or continunity setting. You should have a reading or show continuity when putting the meter on the two terminals on the element. The other thing to test is the thermostat mounted to the back of the heater. Again, when the heater is cold, you should read continuity across it. The thermostat turns the element on and off as needed. If you read "0" ohms or no conunity across the element it's bad. Greg

Actually, if you read "0" ohms, you have continuity and it is good. You will have several ohms of resistance if it is good, use one of the lower ohms scales. You can also measure on the AC plug when you unplug it rather than right at the terminals. If you have resistance it is good, if not measure at the element terminals, if you have resistance there it is a bad connection at the terminals or a bad cable.

[FDNYdave]

Quote:

Originally Posted by USMCRET The electrical portion of my 10 gal Suburban water heater quit working this weekend. I switched over to LP and it worked fine. I checked everything I knew to check, including the thermostat reset. The only thing I can think of is the heating element itself went south. How exactly would I go about testing the heating element with a multimeter? I haven't pulled it yet, but will look at it on Wednesday. Secondly, what is the expected life span of one of these elements? Thanks much! Ed

across the two terminals there should be continuity and then check each terminal to the body there should not be continiuity (a short to ground)

[mahon1993]

Yea, "0" was the wrong term to use. I should of said "no" ohms, or open.
Sorry,
Greg

[bigskymt]

We noticed ours not working in West Yellowstone last month. I removed the element cover and tested 122VAC at the terminals and over 300K ohms at the element with wires disconnected.
GaryKD advised the element and special removal tool is available at H.D. or Lowes.

[wa8yxm]

Measure voltage across terminals on heat element when it SHOULD be operating
(Proper is same as any nearby outlet or within a volt of it)

Shut off, disconnect and measure resistance between pins.. Around 10 ohms if I'm not mistaken.

Measure resistance each terminal to "Ground" (Green screw or bare wire) should be "open circuit" (Same as test leads not touching anything)

NOTE that the 10 ohms is a guess.. Check the owner's manual or service manual for proper reading. I believe it will be between 5 and 15 though.

["007"]

When you do get element cover off check the spade tip connection, dealer techs have a problem of putting spade clip on male connector of element I have found two instances of the clip caught between the spade connector and the plastic mounting so heat from poor connection melts and openS your 110 from heating element.

[wa8yxm]

I should have mentioned, When running the resistance checks DISCONNECT the wires from the element terminals (or at the other end) else you might be reading a short where there is none.

[USMCRET]

Lots of good input here. Thanks. This looks to be about a three beer task.

[USMCRET]

I'm getting good continuity reading across the element's terminals and 104v at the connection to the element. How does this sound?

[targaboat]

Should be working. That is unless you still had the leads connected the element while taking the ohm reading. I suppose you could have a short to ground but then something would be smoking.

[John Hilley]

As noted above, with one lead disconnected from the element you should have 10 to 20 ohms of resistance. Make sure that one lead is disconnected and measure the resistance again. If you get much more than 20 ohms you have a bad element.

[USMCRET]

That's what I thought. I'll check the continuity again tomorrow.