I agree with RV Geeks on aluminum anode

[mel s]

Originally Posted by MRUSA14

What's wrong with the original equipment? Does Suburban not know what is best?

MRUSA14
Apparently not... since Suburban sells both aluminum anode rods and magnesium anode rods for use in their water heaters.

Which was original equipment in yours?

Mel
'96 Safari

[dennis45]

Originally Posted by MRUSA14

What's wrong with the original equipment? Does Suburban not know what is best?

Probably not. They only designed and built it. Just saying.

[Old-Biscuit]

Suburban OEM anode rods are magnesium
Suburban 'optional' anode rods are aluminum.
Suburban uses an anode rod due to having a STEEL glass-lined tank. Steel rusts out and the glass-lining can/does have cracks plus there is one area missing any lining (last inserted welded into tank)

Atwood uses an aluminum alloy clad tank and therefore no anode rod required. Alloy cladding is a built in anode except it takes decades for damage to occur provided folks do a little bit of routine rinsing/flushing of tank
Course 'after market vendors' would have you think otherwise as they have anode rods for Atwood WHs for sale

[mel s]

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

Suburban OEM anode rods are magnesium
Suburban 'optional' anode rods are aluminum.
Suburban uses an anode rod due to having a STEEL glass-lined tank. Steel rusts out and the glass-lining can/does have cracks plus there is one area missing any lining (last inserted welded into tank)
Atwood uses an aluminum alloy clad tank and therefore no anode rod required. Alloy cladding is a built in anode except it takes decades for damage to occur provided folks do a little bit of routine rinsing/flushing of tank
Course 'after market vendors' would have you think otherwise as they have anode rods for Atwood WHs for sale

Old-Biscuit
Thanks
Few of us with Suberban water heaters knew which anode rod Suberban supplied in our water heaters.
Mel
'96 Safari (with the original Suberban SW10D WH)

[dennis45]

Originally Posted by mel s

Old-Biscuit
Thanks
Few of us with Suberban water heaters knew which anode rod Suberban supplied in our water heaters.
Mel
'96 Safari (with the original Suberban SW10D WH)

When was the last time you heard of a residential WH lasting more than 10-12 years? I just replaced mine to a 12 gal but not because it was leaking. The element burned out and I thought given its age, it's probably just a matter of time before something else goes on the fritz so changed up to the larger unit.
I have owned my coach since 2010. When I got it, I drained the WH and the anode rod looked like a welding rod. The material was totally spent. Nobody knows how long it had been this way. Point is, I don't think it makes any difference as to which one you use, the heater will likely outlast the coach as long as it get replaced once in a while. Just my opinion.....

[Old-Biscuit]

Anode rod has a steel rod welded to drain plug and then the sacrificial material is formed around that steel rod.

Suburban recommends anode rod be replaced when 75% of material has been dissolved

[paz]

Originally Posted by dennis45

I have always used a Magnesium rod. The only time I have had a problem with a Rotten Egg smell was after staying in a CG that had well water and then putting the coach into storage for about six weeks.
Now, if I plan to store for more than a couple of weeks, I drain the HW tank unless I am at home where I have the city water connected and using the water on a regular basis.
My point after all this is that, IMO, a Magnesium rod is the best option for RVs using fresh water but if there is a chance of Sulphur content, drain the tank before storage.

I always use magnesium as well because it is more reactive than aluminum. The possibility of sulfur smell can be reduced or eliminated if you do as you say and drain the water tank during periods of storageof more than a few weeks. Since we're full-timers, our water heater is constantly in use, and we've never had a problem with sulfur in 10 years of travel all over the country.

[mbrandt1402]

macandphyl wins my vote for best technical response. This is all about galvanic current. Any anode lower on the chart than the metal used to construct the tank will protect the tank. Magnesium is an easy choice, since it is lower than any other practical metal for tank construction. More expensive, but a safe choice.