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Old 06-01-2007, 04:19 PM   #1
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I have a Norcold refrigerator with a built-in ice maker. It has worked before (or so I am told by the previous owners) but on our last trip, the ice maker didn't work. I even tried to apply slight pressure to the fingers of the ice maker to engage the mechanism to no avail. I also never detected any water in the ice maker tray. Any suggestions on how to troubleshoot this? Thanks.
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Old 06-01-2007, 04:19 PM   #2
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I have a Norcold refrigerator with a built-in ice maker. It has worked before (or so I am told by the previous owners) but on our last trip, the ice maker didn't work. I even tried to apply slight pressure to the fingers of the ice maker to engage the mechanism to no avail. I also never detected any water in the ice maker tray. Any suggestions on how to troubleshoot this? Thanks.
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Old 06-01-2007, 05:04 PM   #3
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Ice maker

Refrigerators

You didn't say what model refer but try these links they may help for starters.
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Old 06-01-2007, 05:10 PM   #4
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Thanks. I have the manual but I have not been able to successfully troubleshoot my ice maker. I'll start poking around it this weekend.
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Old 06-02-2007, 12:48 AM   #5
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First you will have to be at normal operating temperatures in the freezer. Verify that the ice maker receptacle(usually around the same receptacle as ref. at the outside vent cover) does have current. MAke sure the ice sensing arm on ice maker is fully down; you may hear or feel a click at bottom. Once ice maker goes through a cycle, it will add water. Make sure the water is turned on, you may have a cut off valve at outside vent cover as well. Let us know what you find and we will go from there.
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Old 06-29-2007, 05:04 PM   #6
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I have the same problem - no ice. The ice maker is plugged in, the water valve delivers water (as I found by loosening the connection)so the problem seems to be in the ice making unit itself. What else can I try? No water makes it to the tray. There is no indication that it is on other than the arm being down.
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Old 06-29-2007, 05:21 PM   #7
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You need 110v for the ice maker to make ice and dump.

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Old 07-01-2007, 04:33 PM   #8
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Well, so far I have checked the power at the receptacle and I do have 110V (actually 113V). I didn't check for water at the solenoid yet, I will have to do that next time I have a chance to work on it. When I move the arm down to the "on" position, I do not feel or hear a click or any other type of indication. I wonder if that is because the ice maker isn't working or not? I am not sure at this point if the solenoid is turning on to allow the water past it or not. More to follow.
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Old 07-02-2007, 02:10 PM   #9
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Next question for this thread...as I was reading through the schematic to start reading out voltages and checking solenoids, the thought came to my mind that maybe the refrigerator isn't getting cold enough to cool down the freezer to start making ice. I did check the solenoid water valve, and there is water to it. I also checked the power receptacle, and there is 110VAC present.

The last time we went camping, we were at the campsite for 2 days with the refrigerator on the coldest setting of 9 (settings are 1 - 9, with 9 being the coldest) and as I think back on it, it never did get really cold. I think the next step I need to do is to run it for a while with a thermometer in it to check the temperature. My thought is, if the refrigerator isn't cooling down enough, the ice maker will never open the solenoid to allow water to fill the mold and freeze.

How long should I run the refrigerator to cool it down sufficiently to make ice? What should the temp be after the specified time of running it? This is a Norcold N641-IM model refrigerator.

A little more backgournd info: On our camping trip, we were running on LP gas for about 2 hours enroute to the campground and then for the next 40 hours or so, it ran on AC via the campsite power hook up. I also made sure that the operating arm was fully down.

Thanks for the help!
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Old 07-05-2007, 09:28 AM   #10
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Darrell how are you making out.
If you have a fan that you can place in your lower vent and run while you have refer on to see if it helps to bring temp down in box area and get your freezer cold. May take over night to get temps you want. Also check your upper vent on roof and make sure you have nothing blocking the whole vent area in back of your refer. The fan can be a 12v fan off refer supply or a 110 fan plugged into ice maker receptacle to see if you bring down temps.
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Old 07-05-2007, 01:16 PM   #11
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Thanks 007. I will check that this weekend. I thought about checking the roof vent, just haven't done it yet. Last weekend I cleaned the roof but didn't really pay attention to the vents at that time. I also read in the RV Maintenance book that it might be worthwhile to remove the refrigerator and lay it on the left side for an hour to give the ammonia and water a chance to mix again. When I purchased the coach, the previous owner had it sitting on a concrete pad that had a pretty pronounced incline, but since the refrigerator wasn't running like that, maybe that won't be a problem. The rig hadn't been moved off the pad for 7 months. What do you think? At any rate, before I go removing the refrigerator, I will try the easier, less intrusive solutions first. Thanks!
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Old 07-05-2007, 05:00 PM   #12
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If the fridge wasn't on incline should not be the problem. Like you say go with the easy stuff first.
As you drive coach down road it will move all that stuff around anyhow.
You said on way to camp ground it was on gas was the fridge cooling ok before you put it on the 110 ac? Its a 99 coach your flue for gas may have to be cleaned also and if you have a problem with electric may need a new heating element.
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Old 07-10-2007, 02:55 PM   #13
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I don't think the fridge ever really cooled down on our trip, either on electric or gas. I just need to check it again to be sure. I will also check the flue as that is an easy check. Thanks.
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