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Old 09-14-2014, 03:09 PM   #15
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Ok, RV "refrigerators" have not changed much in oh, well since.. Well, I hae a Wizard of Id cartoon where Sir Rodney gets stuck behind a horse drawn Winnie.

Oh there have been SOME improvements like automatic switching from Propane to AC and back, and Direct Spark Ignition, but the basic operation and the actual cooling engine have not changed in a long, long time.

So what is yours doing wrong.

Burner won't light,,
Electric element won't heat (The cooling unit runs on heat)

Gets hot (on the outside) but no cool (on the inside)

In the last case you have 3 choices (with sub choices on most of them)

New Dometic or Norcold.. many sub shoices including all electric models, See note

New "Residential" type

Replace Cooling unit only (Same box, Same door, Just the back side gets replaced.

The NOTE: Norcold and Dometic now both offer high effiency (Danfoss or competitor) Fridges, these are compressor driven and suck just about 4 amps off your batteries when cooling. That's 35-50 watts, depending on the precise model,, OPENING THE DOOR turns on a lamp that is often in the 25 watt range for comparison, Just one dual 1156 light fixture is over 50 watts.

OF course they are a tad pricey.
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Old 09-14-2014, 03:54 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plasma800 View Post
I use the best / low tech method.
Ice cube trays with bottled water ......
I also go low tech, $2 to the check out clerk for a bag full of harder, better quality commercial grade ice. The first one we had, the feed line and fill solenoid was damaged in an unexpected freeze. I capped the line and never did a repair. On the current unit, upon purchase I drained the system, installed a shut off valve on the feed line and as soon as I can figure out how to remove the whole unit, it goes away and into storage as we prefer to have the extra freezer space..
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Old 09-14-2014, 04:15 PM   #17
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Plasma
On some coaches that doesn't have converters (DC to AC) installed for some appliances, there may be a small converter mounted near the refrigerator to work the motor on the ice maker. If this describes your coach then you may want to disconnect the 12v to the converter since youve removed the ice maker. Recd my new ice maker which I purchased from Amazon. Spent 15 min and $42 and we're back in business. Our frig is large with 2 door freezer. Room for the ice maker and container.
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Old 09-15-2014, 09:29 AM   #18
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Old 09-17-2014, 08:31 PM   #19
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Quote:
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1985 Cruise Air 27' refer quit cooling. This is a good Motorhome, we would like to keep it. So far, (and I am familiar with old vehicles) the suggestion is get a new one. Well, is there another route? This is a Sibir unit, with amonia. Can it be fixed?

Thanx BARMAN
Very few technicians will fool with ammonia systems these days, but some still do because there are old ammonia commercial systems still working, and the military did use this type unit. Ammonia under pressure is dangerous (as in life-threatening), it is NOT a DIY project.
Were it mine, I would replace with a modern unit.
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