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Installing a Bigger Fridge & Freezer
03-03-2011, 11:33 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Cherry Creek, BC Canada
Posts: 722
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I have been given a working 3 way fridge for my motorhome and once I measured out everything I will have very close tolerances top and bottom of the unit. I've been playing around on the net searching for tolerance information and can't find anything pertinent. Does anyone know the top and bottom clearances required for a Dometic fridge.
This unit is about 1/3 bigger than the fridge in our unit now and should make DW very happy being able to carry more produce with us.
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Denise and Dennis Dalla-Vicenza (Co-pilot Mizzi)
1977 C Class Lethbridge Industries Diplomat
In Cherry Creek (Just Above) Port Alberni, BC
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03-04-2011, 01:39 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Sauvie Island, OR
Posts: 1,829
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Describe your tolerance issue a bit more, are you referring to the clearance above the unit to the ceiling? The only area that really needs air space is the back of the unit and the burner assembly needs to be X amount of inches away from walls.
I insulated all the dead space around my existing fridge in my rig to improve its efficiency.
__________________
'92 Dodge W250 "Dually" Power Wagon
'74 KIT 1106 Kamper Slide-in Truck Camper
Follow along with me in the The Journey of
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03-04-2011, 01:50 AM
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#3
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Community Moderator
Gulf Streamers Club Country Coach Owners Club Appalachian Campers
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Chattanooga, Tn.
Posts: 8,263
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If you give us the model, we can probably come up with installation instructions. There are no minimum clearances for side to side and top to bottom with the exception of the condenser coil on the back.
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Mike, Certified Master RV Technician
Amy, RV Merchandiser; Roxie & Mei Ling, four legs each
2000 Gulf Stream Scenic Cruiser w/ Banks & 2 toads
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03-04-2011, 11:19 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Cherry Creek, BC Canada
Posts: 722
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The unit I want to put in is at a wrecking yard at the moment still in the trailer that was give to me. The two units (old and Newer) are the same thickness but the double door is about 8 inches taller. The old has an issue with the igniting system so it has to come out for attempted repairs (I have to open the vent door to switch from 12V to 110V to propane and the propane ignition apparatus does not work so I have to manually light it. The fridge works in all three modes and works very well so if I make the switch it could become a freezer for when we are fishing.
I will pull the one from the trailer and do final measurements when they are both out and see if the switch is practical.
One other question in this unit (Old C Class) the fridge is right above the furnace, should this be a problem and should I just put in a suitably strong steel mesh to allow the heat from the furnace when in use to dissipate up to the roof vent easier?
__________________
Denise and Dennis Dalla-Vicenza (Co-pilot Mizzi)
1977 C Class Lethbridge Industries Diplomat
In Cherry Creek (Just Above) Port Alberni, BC
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03-04-2011, 11:23 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Cherry Creek, BC Canada
Posts: 722
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RV Wizard
If you give us the model, we can probably come up with installation instructions. There are no minimum clearances for side to side and top to bottom with the exception of the condenser coil on the back.
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In the next day or two I have a couple more RV salvage jobs to do so I will get the model number of the unit as you request.
This has to be the best list to belong to. A hell a lot of fun and giggles and some very informed and informative people. Thanks a bunch everyone.
__________________
Denise and Dennis Dalla-Vicenza (Co-pilot Mizzi)
1977 C Class Lethbridge Industries Diplomat
In Cherry Creek (Just Above) Port Alberni, BC
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03-18-2011, 05:19 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 1
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Slide out driver's side living area. When setting up for the evening we were going thru our regular routine set up. When we activated the switch for the living room drivers side in or 2003 Dutchstar the rear of the slide started out fine. Standing out side I heard what I beliverd to be a ratcheting sound as if somethig was trying to move but couldn't. I then noticed the front of the slide was not coming our. I ran in and stopped the slide out. When seeing if I could bring the slide out in it seemed to work correctly except the back remained out about 4 inches when motor stopped. When putting the slide out in the extended position the rear of the slide out extended fully but the front was off about 4" from fully extending. Is there a manual way to realign the slide out. Can someone tell me that this isn't another of my 1500 dollar errors. Anyway, please help if you can tell me what to do. Thanks.
Darrell & Sharon Richards
2003 Dutchstar
Watsontown, PA 17777
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03-18-2011, 06:16 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Sauvie Island, OR
Posts: 1,829
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Do dutchstars use hydraulic or gear/track driven slides? My slide experience is mostly with smaller, gear/track based slides vs the hydraulic units.
If its gear/track based, you will need to find the access hatches for the motors and the tracks to see if there's gear wear and also measure the travel on each side as the slide is moving to see if the slide is out of kilter. Sag in the floor and slide assembly can also cause smooth movement issues.
__________________
'92 Dodge W250 "Dually" Power Wagon
'74 KIT 1106 Kamper Slide-in Truck Camper
Follow along with me in the The Journey of
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03-19-2011, 02:10 AM
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#8
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Community Moderator
Gulf Streamers Club Country Coach Owners Club Appalachian Campers
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Chattanooga, Tn.
Posts: 8,263
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Newmar uses electric rack and pinion type slide out systems and it sounds like it has jumped timing. There are several ways to get it back into time. First run the room about 1/2 way out. Look inside the compartments under the slide out for the motor and inter connecting drive from motor to rack gear. By disconnecting one end, measuring the flange of one end of the SO to the main wall and compare it to the other end, operating the room in short bumps to get the same distance from wall to flange and then reattaching the drive to the gear will time the beast. Inspect for any debris behind interior flanges, evidences of debris under the slide out and lubricating the mechanism should prevent it from jumping time. Verify that both ends of the rack and drive gear mechanisms are properly connected to the drive mechanism and drive is properly connected to the motor assembly.
__________________

Mike, Certified Master RV Technician
Amy, RV Merchandiser; Roxie & Mei Ling, four legs each
2000 Gulf Stream Scenic Cruiser w/ Banks & 2 toads
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