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Old 01-12-2013, 12:54 PM   #15
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Another possibility is an " active fault".

What I mean is when no power is applied all is well.

When power is applied things change.

Switch mode power supplies are funny beasts, inverters and some converters use them.

They generate magnetic fields that induce currents that are called leakage currents, if the chassis is not properly grounded a voltage will develop between an ungrounded chasis and ground, this also may show up on the neutral creating problem with GFI.

You may try getting an extension cord connected to a GFI outlet and use an old power cord attached directly to the unit see if it works.

You may have a poor connection on a wire that with the low current of the meter looks fine but fails on the higher load of the inverter.
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Old 01-12-2013, 12:56 PM   #16
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Beat me to the cord...on the right track

Move your power connection Clouse to the source.

Normalize the inverter and locate the other end of the wires and make the connection there.
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Old 01-12-2013, 01:20 PM   #17
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Double checking all connections I can access.....some excess (slop) wire in the Transfer switch box, so I am cleaning up everything there...on to the interior House AC panels next.
Converter still working great on direct power cord....just went to float charge...
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Old 01-12-2013, 06:31 PM   #18
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Mine would go back and forth from bulk to absorb. Now that I have been sitting here the past few days waiting on parts from magnum before they pull it and run bench tests the danged thing seems to be working fine. It went to float the other day, and today i noticed it said full charge. It never did that before we did all the tests and magnum had me do a reboot. Heck, it may now be fixed...I think I will still let magnum test it though. Mysterious self fixes typically don't work too long.

jwcgc629, where you located? Don't know what jwcgc629 stands for, but where I come from cgc629 would be the CGC Decisive out of Pascagoula, MS....LOL
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Old 01-12-2013, 08:07 PM   #19
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MRChips if you have been moving battery cables around checking things you may have a loose cable or dirty cable connection on the chassis frame.
There are also heavy #6 copper wires to chassis frame also off inverter/converter.
If battery cables are stranded to inverter they maybe loose under screw terminations because they flatten out under the screw.
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Old 01-12-2013, 09:07 PM   #20
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007, nope have not touched anything. All the tests Magnum had me do had to do with just changing settings on the remote and telling them what the outputs were, aside from doing a re-boot on the inverter/charger.
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Old 01-12-2013, 09:15 PM   #21
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Just to confuse you more maybe, if you have the coach plugged in and the fridge is on electric, a bad electric element heater will trip your GFI outlet after it heats up and would be only one of the elements if a 1200 series.
I would monitor your problem maybe your reset has taken care of problem.
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Old 01-13-2013, 08:45 AM   #22
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007, nothing turned on in the coach except the charger/inverter. The re-boot may have actually done something. Will see I guess.
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Old 01-13-2013, 04:24 PM   #23
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Checked and tightened everything....hooked hot and neutral to the inverter one at a time....no trip (of course that is no use) No matter which is connected first, the moment I connect the other and the converter starts, (there seems to be a slight startup delay of a couple of seconds), it trips the GFI....Thought perhaps it is a startup surge and not a GFI issue, but the 20a test circuit doesnt trip, so it look like GFI and no an amperage related trip.

Im thinking of replacing the GFI breaker just to eliminate that....The charging circuit works fine when connected directly (to a 20a GFI outlet)...seems my 30a dedicated circuit has copped an attitude... Im stumped....

Jim
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Old 01-14-2013, 05:19 PM   #24
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Disconnecting the 12v battery cable from the inverter eliminates the trip...
It does look for something to charge (blinking green LED) but does not trip...There is a rather healthy spark with connecting or disconnecting the cable from the inverter.....though the inverter is turned off...

What is all this telling me ??

Thanks
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Old 01-14-2013, 07:46 PM   #25
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Ground loop. ..

Battery ground is connected to frame as is the green safety ground.

Look for white wire to ground.

Could be bad charger, transformer maybe no isolation.
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Old 01-14-2013, 07:49 PM   #26
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If I understand correctly, the 30 amp GFI cord from the house is plugged in the shore power main RV plug. (That shore power goes thru the transfer switch then to the AC panel thru a breaker back to the converter (another set of breakers on the converter)). The 20 A GFI cord (that does not trip) you have connected to the converter's input directly. Is this correct?
If correct, then a bad connection in the transfer switch (loose screw) or AC panel would cause slight arcing which would trip a GFI. And the arcing would only happen when the current was significant enough, ie converter running...


Did the 30 A GFI connection use to work with this same RV?
If yes, could be the GFI itself, good idea to try another one just to see.
If not, check to make sure the neutral and ground are not connected together in the AC panel with a bonding screw (that should be removed).
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Old 01-15-2013, 07:38 AM   #27
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The dedicated 30a circuit I installed worked for a year with our 5th wheel and up until a few weeks ago on the Motorhome, so there isnt a wiring issue there, though I do think trying another GFI breaker may be worthwhile.

I have Checked/tightened all the connections in the transfer switch and AC panel that I can access.

It does work fine with an "extension cord" wired directly to the converter/inverter line input plugged into a 20a GFI outlet....charges the batteries..goes into float...all normal. Charges off the generator fine...inverts fine....

The ONLY thing that changed was we dry camped for a night (on some property we own close to home)...ran the genset most of the night....when we returned the next day and I connected the shore power, the problem manifest itself. It was connected to shore power until we left, 24 hours earlier...no issues. Thus I suspect it is related to the transfer switch itself ??

A real head scratcher.....
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Old 01-15-2013, 09:47 AM   #28
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Is it easy enough to connect your 20 a cord to the RV plug and therefore go thru the exact same circuit that the 30 a goes thru? I would try that and I would also try a differenct 30 GFI.
After that test, you could move your connection to just beyond the transfer switch or before the AC panel (whichever is easier) to try to isolate the ground fault. Does your panel include EMS (load shedding)? I still think a loose connection or dirty contacts in your transfer switch might cause the "arcing" that would trip a GFI. Have you tried to clean the contacts?
And yes, I agree if it worked before your panel is wired fine. And the odds of arcing in the panel are slim.
Keep going, RV's can be as much fun as they can be a royal pain in the behind...
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